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#1 |
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Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 201
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BRAKE PAD CHANGE INSTRUCTIONS ??
I need instructions for a '99GT. Does this car have dual front pistons? Does anyone have a link to good pictoral instructions? Thanks, mark
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'99 Convertible. 4.10's, PYPES catted X-pipe and catback. UDP's. 75mmBBK TB/plenum. JLT CAI. UDP's, Brenspeed custom tuned SCT. SVO intake & SHM cams this winter! Lord willing. |
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#2 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
48.47@ 12.58
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37,050
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yes it is a 2 piston caliper.. a very easy install.
i don't have any pics but you really dont need them. once you have the car jacked and the tire off. 1) there will be 2 bolts behind the caliper. take these off. the caliper will now come off(not the bracket) 2)take out the old pads and place the caliper on the control arm or something. make sure you don't let the caliper hang. if you break the line you will have fun bleeding your brakes. 3) lube the new pads and shims around all edges and on the back of the pad. 4) use a break tool(or c-clamp) to push back in the pistons on the caliper. make sure to place your old pad between the brake tool (or c-clamp ) and the piston before you push them in 5) place the new pads in the caliper 6) put the caliper back in place and lube the bolts that you took out origanaly. 7)bolt it back together. now do the same for the other side then get in your car and pump the brakes a few times to build up the brake pressure and your done.
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#3 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
48.47@ 12.58
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37,050
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anyone feel free to correct me if i missed something
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#4 |
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Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 201
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I'm doing front and back and have a Haynes manual but also read instructions on Mustang world and it had something about the front caliper being held on by a Torx bolt and that was a bit of a pain, remove that and pivot the caliper back. Then removing a c-clip for dual piston fronts but I didn't get a new c-clip with the pads. By the way the pads are EBC green stuff and they do not want anything applied to them.
So the complete caliper/brcket does not get removed, just the top that holds the pads? I also read that the front and rears required a special tool or at least a good set of needle nose pliers to turn the piston in and not a c-clamp like I am used to using so the questions!?
__________________
'99 Convertible. 4.10's, PYPES catted X-pipe and catback. UDP's. 75mmBBK TB/plenum. JLT CAI. UDP's, Brenspeed custom tuned SCT. SVO intake & SHM cams this winter! Lord willing. |
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#5 |
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Doc
1986 SVO
48.47@ 12.58
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 37,050
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: 11 reviews
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the torx bolt is for the brake line.. don't worry about it. you don't need to touch it.
use the old c-clip.. just lube it first. if the "green stuff" pads don't use lube.. then don't lube. lol no the whole bracket doesn't need to be removed unless your doing rotors as well. the front brakes don't require that tool. but the rears do. i forget the name of the tool but any parts store should carry it.
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 YUGO GT
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: GOAT LOCKER PENSACOLA FL
Posts: 1,700
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Oh come on just buy a tech manual, hopefully you can finger it out from there. Jeeze get some ed before you work on your car....just thak a moment and think about what I said, it's no refection you, jous use the resources available befor crying wolf! W>P>
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