Cooling/temperature issue with Centi set up

blk35th · January 31st, 2010, 01:18 PM

This might be a noob question. But ever since I got my car back on the road, with my combo....I noticed that the temp stays directly below the 1/2 way mark. My combo is the V3 Si with the after cooler box, and the steeda alluminum radiator.....but there is only less than 1,000 miles on the fresh motor. The after cooler box has coolant in it. Is there another method of keeping this cool????

And whats up with this Vortech merging with Procharger??? does that mean that I can use their air-to-air intercooler set up???? I'm just freaked out because even when my car was stock the only time it would get that high would be in 1** digit temps during summer (which is rarely). I need help to keep this thing cool. Any advice from anyone who has experience with this type of issue would be wonderful.

most of my mods:

-Innovators west 8 rib Crank Dampner with a 10degree offset.
-stage Hiteck 2 blower camshafts
-signature series long block w/stroker upgrade
-ARP head studs
-high velocity OIl & pick up
-3.33 8 rib vortech pulley
-Gi Joe 8 rib conversion
-03 cobra tank w/sending unit
-Brand new timing gears/guides/reluctor wheels and tensioners
-Cobra windage tray
-GT pumps
-Mac ceramic long tubes
-lethal performance hi-flow catted x pipe
-SCT x3 tuner

Thank you

RAJ

RyanGT · January 31st, 2010, 01:31 PM

Its right where it should be, maybe even cooler. 180 t stat (fluidyne radiator) my gauge sits maybe 1 dash mark below middle. If it was below that it never got to operating temps.

blk35th · January 31st, 2010, 01:39 PM

Oh........ but instead of just plain old coolant?? can i throw something else in that after cooler box? like ice??? or dry ice?? will that hurt?

Eagle2000GT · January 31st, 2010, 02:38 PM

You must be running an air-to-water intercooler. A lot of us run an air-to-air intercooler. Your intercooler box and the engine temp really have nothing to do with each other. I've heard of people putting ice or dry ice in it at the track to make sure they are getting the coolest possible air to the engine but I've never heard of anyone doing that for day-to-day driving. My gage reads the same as yours. My guess is that nothing is wrong.

BakerFX4 · January 31st, 2010, 02:45 PM

min is right below half most the time too.

limited · January 31st, 2010, 02:55 PM

yeah, don't put a lot of faith in the factory guage, mine stay's at about 1/3 at it's hottest, but thats with a 160 thermostat(KB supplied)

blk35th · January 31st, 2010, 04:12 PM

so would an air-to-air be a little bit cooler? and can I use both the aftercooler box and an air-to-air set up at once?

Sorry about the noob questions. I am new to boost.lol

pber13 · January 31st, 2010, 05:29 PM

you engine temp is where it should be, don't worry about it! if you run it cooler than stock, you cause the engine a LOT more wear.

RyanGT · January 31st, 2010, 05:38 PM

Air to water is actually better for heat transfer. It is just harder with a centri thats why most kits are air to air. You could get a fan setup on the heat exchanger to keep temps done in city driving. My after blower temps are the same in stop and go traffic as it is on the free way doing 70.

RyanGT · January 31st, 2010, 05:39 PM

And you really don't need both air to water and air to air. You would get boost loss with all that piping lol (and talk about clutter)! Your inlet temps are probably less than you think. Most centri guys run close to ambient. Extra cooling wont get you passed what the outside temp is no matter how hard you try.

blk35th · February 1st, 2010, 07:23 PM

Ok, sounds good. Thanks. I should be going back to get it re-tuned with those 60lb injectors later this month. Anxious to see some bigger numbers.

sharkbait · February 1st, 2010, 09:52 PM

Before you go crazy with this stuff. 180 thermo and flush your system and get a new radiator. Really that might be all you need.

RyanGT · February 1st, 2010, 10:06 PM

It actually sounds like his cooling system is actually working correctly now, and before it wasn't lol.

bandity2k00 · February 1st, 2010, 10:13 PM

Mines just one line under the middle! Stock thermostat!

RyanGT · February 1st, 2010, 10:36 PM

Unless it goes to 3/4 you're good to go. Can always datalog real temps.

sharkbait · February 1st, 2010, 10:47 PM

Mine dosnt get to the N in normal and thats with a 180 thermo and stock radiator!

blk35th · February 2nd, 2010, 05:13 PM

Originally Posted by sharkbait

Before you go crazy with this stuff. 180 thermo and flush your system and get a new radiator. Really that might be all you need.

I have a new aluminum radiator from steeda, and the thermostat is new. It's all brand new. Still has that new metal smell under the hood. lol

pber13 · February 3rd, 2010, 07:02 AM

Originally Posted by sharkbait

Mine dosnt get to the N in normal and thats with a 180 thermo and stock radiator!

that would be because your thermostat is keeping the engine too cold...it is SUPPOSED to get to the N.

Eagle2000GT · February 3rd, 2010, 08:00 AM

Running cold is bad for our motors. I will probably explain this poorly but the ECU has two different tuning tables: a closed loop and an open loop. One if for cold starts and the other is for normal operation. If the motor never gets to normal operating tempatures then it stays in the cold start tune. I've had several tuners tell me to never run anything less than a 180 degree thermostat.

The previous owner of my car put in a 160 degree thermostat. It ran a lot cooler. So much so that highway tempature was a little lower than city tempature (less air flowing through the radiator). But my tuner took it out and threw it in the trash.

A couple of ticks below 1/2 on the gage is normal.

Eagle2000GT · February 3rd, 2010, 08:02 AM

Originally Posted by sharkbait

Mine dosnt get to the N in normal and thats with a 180 thermo and stock radiator!

Did it read higher in the summer? It sounds like your thermostat isn't working properly.

January 31st, 2010, 01:18 PM	#1
blk35th Regular 1999 Mustang GT Before(12.80@104) Still have to get a new time after biuld Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Menlo Park Posts: 75	Cooling/temperature issue with Centi set up This might be a noob question. But ever since I got my car back on the road, with my combo....I noticed that the temp stays directly below the 1/2 way mark. My combo is the V3 Si with the after cooler box, and the steeda alluminum radiator.....but there is only less than 1,000 miles on the fresh motor. The after cooler box has coolant in it. Is there another method of keeping this cool???? And whats up with this Vortech merging with Procharger??? does that mean that I can use their air-to-air intercooler set up???? I'm just freaked out because even when my car was stock the only time it would get that high would be in 1** digit temps during summer (which is rarely). I need help to keep this thing cool. Any advice from anyone who has experience with this type of issue would be wonderful. most of my mods: -Innovators west 8 rib Crank Dampner with a 10degree offset. -stage Hiteck 2 blower camshafts -signature series long block w/stroker upgrade -ARP head studs -high velocity OIl & pick up -3.33 8 rib vortech pulley -Gi Joe 8 rib conversion -03 cobra tank w/sending unit -Brand new timing gears/guides/reluctor wheels and tensioners -Cobra windage tray -GT pumps -Mac ceramic long tubes -lethal performance hi-flow catted x pipe -SCT x3 tuner Thank you RAJ

January 31st, 2010, 01:31 PM	#2
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,134	Its right where it should be, maybe even cooler. 180 t stat (fluidyne radiator) my gauge sits maybe 1 dash mark below middle. If it was below that it never got to operating temps. __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

January 31st, 2010, 02:38 PM	#4
Eagle2000GT Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 Mustang GT Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Shelbyville, Indiana Posts: 1,852	You must be running an air-to-water intercooler. A lot of us run an air-to-air intercooler. Your intercooler box and the engine temp really have nothing to do with each other. I've heard of people putting ice or dry ice in it at the track to make sure they are getting the coolest possible air to the engine but I've never heard of anyone doing that for day-to-day driving. My gage reads the same as yours. My guess is that nothing is wrong. __________________ latest tune: 370 rwhp/377 rwtq Garage: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-member-11329/ Previously Owned: 1966 Coronet 500, 426 ci est. 290-300 rwhp 1969 Camaro RS/SS, 350 ci est. 210-220 rwhp Today is the real muscle car era.

January 31st, 2010, 02:45 PM	#5
BakerFX4 I Post Entirely Way Too Much Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 11,641	min is right below half most the time too. __________________

January 31st, 2010, 02:55 PM	#6
limited Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Tacoma,Washington Posts: 2,069	yeah, don't put a lot of faith in the factory guage, mine stay's at about 1/3 at it's hottest, but thats with a 160 thermostat(KB supplied) __________________ 99 L.E. conv.#1973 of 4628, KB 2.1 9 psi i/c'd. vt stage 3 blower cams,gt40 fp/bap,frpp 3:73's,demolet cai,accufab 75mm tb,Sct Ba 2400,tri-ax,bfg kdw's,magnaflows,Mac o/r H, Tuned by Joe at http://www.tricktuners.com

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January 31st, 2010, 01:39 PM	#3
blk35th Regular 1999 Mustang GT Before(12.80@104) Still have to get a new time after biuld Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Menlo Park Posts: 75	Oh........ but instead of just plain old coolant?? can i throw something else in that after cooler box? like ice??? or dry ice?? will that hurt?

January 31st, 2010, 04:12 PM	#7
blk35th Regular 1999 Mustang GT Before(12.80@104) Still have to get a new time after biuld Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Menlo Park Posts: 75	so would an air-to-air be a little bit cooler? and can I use both the aftercooler box and an air-to-air set up at once? Sorry about the noob questions. I am new to boost.lol

January 31st, 2010, 05:38 PM	#9
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,134	Air to water is actually better for heat transfer. It is just harder with a centri thats why most kits are air to air. You could get a fan setup on the heat exchanger to keep temps done in city driving. My after blower temps are the same in stop and go traffic as it is on the free way doing 70. __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

January 31st, 2010, 05:39 PM	#10
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,134	And you really don't need both air to water and air to air. You would get boost loss with all that piping lol (and talk about clutter)! Your inlet temps are probably less than you think. Most centri guys run close to ambient. Extra cooling wont get you passed what the outside temp is no matter how hard you try. __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

February 1st, 2010, 07:23 PM	#11
blk35th Regular 1999 Mustang GT Before(12.80@104) Still have to get a new time after biuld Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Menlo Park Posts: 75	Ok, sounds good. Thanks. I should be going back to get it re-tuned with those 60lb injectors later this month. Anxious to see some bigger numbers.

February 1st, 2010, 09:52 PM	#12
sharkbait Hooo Ha Ha 1997 Mustang GT 13.2 @ 105 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Pasadena MD Posts: 5,988	Before you go crazy with this stuff. 180 thermo and flush your system and get a new radiator. Really that might be all you need. __________________ MAD STANGS VP Louver crew Co-Founder MM Bracket Racing Crew Member #3

February 1st, 2010, 10:06 PM	#13
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,134	It actually sounds like his cooling system is actually working correctly now, and before it wasn't lol. __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

February 1st, 2010, 10:13 PM	#14
bandity2k00 Baker Jr. 2002 Mustang GT 12.2, first run, broke gears 2nd run Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Gambrills,MD Posts: 1,442	Mines just one line under the middle! Stock thermostat! __________________ Blown by Procharger/2 core intercooler-415rwhp/411rwtq conservatively. HP292 Blower Cams,Accufab Plenum/throttle body BBK o/r x pipe,Magnaflow catback Pro 5.0 short throw,4.10's,Moser 31 spline axles+FFRP Cobra differential,MM Subframe Connectors

February 1st, 2010, 10:36 PM	#15
RyanGT MM Fanatic 2000 GT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lynnwood, Washington Posts: 4,134	Unless it goes to 3/4 you're good to go. Can always datalog real temps. __________________ 2000 Black convertible GT: KB 15psi, and other goodies... 1971 Datsun 240 z: Header and rebuilt motor. (The DD)

February 1st, 2010, 10:47 PM	#16
sharkbait Hooo Ha Ha 1997 Mustang GT 13.2 @ 105 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Pasadena MD Posts: 5,988	Mine dosnt get to the N in normal and thats with a 180 thermo and stock radiator! __________________ MAD STANGS VP Louver crew Co-Founder MM Bracket Racing Crew Member #3

February 3rd, 2010, 08:00 AM	#19
Eagle2000GT Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 Mustang GT Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Shelbyville, Indiana Posts: 1,852	Running cold is bad for our motors. I will probably explain this poorly but the ECU has two different tuning tables: a closed loop and an open loop. One if for cold starts and the other is for normal operation. If the motor never gets to normal operating tempatures then it stays in the cold start tune. I've had several tuners tell me to never run anything less than a 180 degree thermostat. The previous owner of my car put in a 160 degree thermostat. It ran a lot cooler. So much so that highway tempature was a little lower than city tempature (less air flowing through the radiator). But my tuner took it out and threw it in the trash. A couple of ticks below 1/2 on the gage is normal. __________________ latest tune: 370 rwhp/377 rwtq Garage: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-member-11329/ Previously Owned: 1966 Coronet 500, 426 ci est. 290-300 rwhp 1969 Camaro RS/SS, 350 ci est. 210-220 rwhp Today is the real muscle car era.

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