Cooling/temperature issue with Centi set up
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Old January 31st, 2010, 02:18 PM   #1
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Cooling/temperature issue with Centi set up


This might be a noob question. But ever since I got my car back on the road, with my combo....I noticed that the temp stays directly below the 1/2 way mark. My combo is the V3 Si with the after cooler box, and the steeda alluminum radiator.....but there is only less than 1,000 miles on the fresh motor. The after cooler box has coolant in it. Is there another method of keeping this cool????

And whats up with this Vortech merging with Procharger??? does that mean that I can use their air-to-air intercooler set up???? I'm just freaked out because even when my car was stock the only time it would get that high would be in 1** digit temps during summer (which is rarely). I need help to keep this thing cool. Any advice from anyone who has experience with this type of issue would be wonderful.

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Old January 31st, 2010, 02:31 PM   #2
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Its right where it should be, maybe even cooler. 180 t stat (fluidyne radiator) my gauge sits maybe 1 dash mark below middle. If it was below that it never got to operating temps.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 02:39 PM   #3
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Oh........ but instead of just plain old coolant?? can i throw something else in that after cooler box? like ice??? or dry ice?? will that hurt?
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Old January 31st, 2010, 03:38 PM   #4
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You must be running an air-to-water intercooler. A lot of us run an air-to-air intercooler. Your intercooler box and the engine temp really have nothing to do with each other. I've heard of people putting ice or dry ice in it at the track to make sure they are getting the coolest possible air to the engine but I've never heard of anyone doing that for day-to-day driving. My gage reads the same as yours. My guess is that nothing is wrong.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 03:45 PM   #5
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min is right below half most the time too.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 03:55 PM   #6
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yeah, don't put a lot of faith in the factory guage, mine stay's at about 1/3 at it's hottest, but thats with a 160 thermostat(KB supplied)
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Old January 31st, 2010, 05:12 PM   #7
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so would an air-to-air be a little bit cooler? and can I use both the aftercooler box and an air-to-air set up at once?

Sorry about the noob questions. I am new to boost.lol
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Old January 31st, 2010, 06:29 PM   #8
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you engine temp is where it should be, don't worry about it! if you run it cooler than stock, you cause the engine a LOT more wear.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 06:38 PM   #9
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Air to water is actually better for heat transfer. It is just harder with a centri thats why most kits are air to air. You could get a fan setup on the heat exchanger to keep temps done in city driving. My after blower temps are the same in stop and go traffic as it is on the free way doing 70.
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Old January 31st, 2010, 06:39 PM   #10
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And you really don't need both air to water and air to air. You would get boost loss with all that piping lol (and talk about clutter)! Your inlet temps are probably less than you think. Most centri guys run close to ambient. Extra cooling wont get you passed what the outside temp is no matter how hard you try.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 08:23 PM   #11
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Ok, sounds good. Thanks. I should be going back to get it re-tuned with those 60lb injectors later this month. Anxious to see some bigger numbers.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 10:52 PM   #12
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Before you go crazy with this stuff. 180 thermo and flush your system and get a new radiator. Really that might be all you need.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 11:06 PM   #13
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It actually sounds like his cooling system is actually working correctly now, and before it wasn't lol.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 11:13 PM   #14
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Mines just one line under the middle! Stock thermostat!
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Old February 1st, 2010, 11:36 PM   #15
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Unless it goes to 3/4 you're good to go. Can always datalog real temps.
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Old February 1st, 2010, 11:47 PM   #16
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Mine dosnt get to the N in normal and thats with a 180 thermo and stock radiator!
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Old February 2nd, 2010, 06:13 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by sharkbait View Post
Before you go crazy with this stuff. 180 thermo and flush your system and get a new radiator. Really that might be all you need.
I have a new aluminum radiator from steeda, and the thermostat is new. It's all brand new. Still has that new metal smell under the hood. lol
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Old February 3rd, 2010, 08:02 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by sharkbait View Post
Mine dosnt get to the N in normal and thats with a 180 thermo and stock radiator!
that would be because your thermostat is keeping the engine too cold...it is SUPPOSED to get to the N.
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Old February 3rd, 2010, 09:00 AM   #19
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Running cold is bad for our motors. I will probably explain this poorly but the ECU has two different tuning tables: a closed loop and an open loop. One if for cold starts and the other is for normal operation. If the motor never gets to normal operating tempatures then it stays in the cold start tune. I've had several tuners tell me to never run anything less than a 180 degree thermostat.

The previous owner of my car put in a 160 degree thermostat. It ran a lot cooler. So much so that highway tempature was a little lower than city tempature (less air flowing through the radiator). But my tuner took it out and threw it in the trash.

A couple of ticks below 1/2 on the gage is normal.
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Old February 3rd, 2010, 09:02 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by sharkbait View Post
Mine dosnt get to the N in normal and thats with a 180 thermo and stock radiator!
Did it read higher in the summer? It sounds like your thermostat isn't working properly.
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