!!!!Bleeding BRAKES HELLLLP!!!!

Drick · February 10th, 2010, 08:20 PM

Im trying to bleed my brakes and I bled them to the procedures in the instructions. RR, RF, LR, LF And they still are shitty

I had to bleed the front two by the lines since the bleeders are corroded to the damn caliper. But why would that make a difference? Ive done that tons of times while bleeding and never had an issue doing it through the lines.

I then bled the top two bleeders on the master cylinder and nothing.

It will pump up if you pump the hell out of it but as soon as you quit pumping and wait a few second and hit it again it will go right back to the floor.

My dad tried to get the bleeder open and snapped one off so now hes gotta fix it tomorrow at work. So Im kinda fucked right now anyway. Im so close to just saying fuck it and buying Cobra calipers

HMUSN · February 10th, 2010, 08:24 PM

Originally Posted by Drick

Im so close to just saying fuck it and buying Cobra calipers

win!

sharkbait · February 10th, 2010, 08:24 PM

+1 on cobra calipers. Is she low on brake fluid? idk just a guess

F8L GT · February 10th, 2010, 08:34 PM

Bleeding is RR, LR, RF LF. You start the farthest from the master and work your way to it.

jessemachone · February 10th, 2010, 08:38 PM

Originally Posted by F8L GT

Bleeding is RR, LR, RF LF. You start the farthest from the master and work your way to it.

+ 1

also, are you getting good ammounts of fluid out? If not, you may have degraded flexible brake lines. Cobra calipers are FTW as well. Make sure you get the cobra brake lines or you will have a

when they don't bolt up.

LGHTNG02GT · February 10th, 2010, 10:04 PM

Originally Posted by F8L GT

Bleeding is RR, LR, RF LF. You start the farthest from the master and work your way to it.

thats how i was taught to bleed brakes as well...

&&just do the cobra calipers/rotors. you wont be sorry

but...i dont understand whats different about the lines ? when i did my swap all i got was calipers and rotors. nothing more. i unthreaded the fitting that goes directly into the GT caliper and it re-threaded right onto the Cobra calipers.

TheUNZippee! · February 10th, 2010, 10:06 PM

Originally Posted by F8L GT

Bleeding is RR, LR, RF LF. You start the farthest from the master and work your way to it.

That.

neverfastenough1 · February 10th, 2010, 10:50 PM

Yeah, Cobra brakes. You'll still have to bleed them. Get new bleeders and go from there. Bleed all the brakes like said and then the master cylinder. I always get more air out of the master cylinder.

GTCON · April 1st, 2010, 04:30 AM

are there any good step by step manuals for bleeding the master cylinder? i keep hearing about having to "bench bleed" the master cylinder if it comes down to actually having to do it. Is this correct or does bleeding it by the 2 bleeder screws on the bottom like a few people have said work?? please let me know if anyone can give me some tips, ill be doing this in a few weeks.

jessemachone · April 1st, 2010, 04:51 AM

yes, you will have to bench bleed it first in a vise. Make sure that any shipping goo has been cleaned from the piston area there the pushrod goes in. (I had an issue with a stickey shipping substance being in there and not letting the piston return all the way to home base. Until I got that piston issue resolved, it wouldnt properly bleed)

If you dont have a vise, you can bolt it into the car and have a buddy help you out by pumping the brakes while you hold the tubes in the reservoir. The help aisle at the auto part store may sell a bleeding help kit with some clips on it that would let you do it by yourself. You would have to rig a mirror up so you can see when it is properly bled (no bubbles) when you're pumping.

GTCON · April 17th, 2010, 12:05 AM

Hey guys, sorry to resurect this again but, I am about to bleed my brakes soon to put on my Roush/Alcon big brake kit. I just want to make sure I got some of the sequences right. From what I have heard I thought bleeding the master cylinder (by the 2 bleed screws) and then the RR, LR, RF, LF was correct? Should I follow this way or bleed them like advised above where one should bleed all the wheels first and then the master cylinder? Let me know what is the best way to go about doing this.

Also, Ive never bled the master cylinder by the bleed screws. Is it the same process as the wheels? (pump up to get pressure, press and hold pedal while one of the bleeder screws is opened, then close the screw before letting pedal go, and repeat). And which screw should be bled first? The one closest to the firewall or the one closest to the battery, or can they be bled at the same time?

Please let me know any info, and thanks in advance!

06invertmini · April 17th, 2010, 12:22 AM

Originally Posted by LGHTNG02GT

thats how i was taught to bleed brakes as well...

&&just do the cobra calipers/rotors. you wont be sorry
but...i dont understand whats different about the lines ? when i did my swap all i got was calipers and rotors. nothing more. i unthreaded the fitting that goes directly into the GT caliper and it re-threaded right onto the Cobra calipers.

same here, just used my gt lines and they worked fine.

MATT02GT · April 17th, 2010, 12:27 AM

Originally Posted by LGHTNG02GT

thats how i was taught to bleed brakes as well...

&&just do the cobra calipers/rotors. you wont be sorry
but...i dont understand whats different about the lines ? when i did my swap all i got was calipers and rotors. nothing more. i unthreaded the fitting that goes directly into the GT caliper and it re-threaded right onto the Cobra calipers.

+1 Just did mine yesterday. Didnt even need the banjo bolts everyone worries about, the stock GT lines/banjo bolts swapped over just fine.

Cookie · April 17th, 2010, 12:31 AM

Don't y'all use clamps? ...Gotta clamp off those hoses, keeps the air out....Snap on has a cool set (at least that's where I got mine...don't know who else carries them...)

Next time Sug, use clamps.

Cookie · April 17th, 2010, 12:32 AM

Oh HELL! and have ya checked your lines? any leaks? and how does the seals look on your calipers and MC?
How much fluid have ya "lost"?

01KnightRiderGT · April 17th, 2010, 07:47 AM

HERE IS YOUR SOLUTION

CLICK NOW!!!!!

Triton03 · April 17th, 2010, 11:58 AM

What kind of brake fluid are you using? should be using DOT 3. Make sure its not contaminated with water.

February 10th, 2010, 08:20 PM	#1
Drick Big timin' in a small town 2004 FX4 F150, 86 GT Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Gods country. Nordern Michigan eh Posts: 14,336 iTrader: 1 reviews	!!!!Bleeding BRAKES HELLLLP!!!! Im trying to bleed my brakes and I bled them to the procedures in the instructions. RR, RF, LR, LF And they still are shitty I had to bleed the front two by the lines since the bleeders are corroded to the damn caliper. But why would that make a difference? Ive done that tons of times while bleeding and never had an issue doing it through the lines. I then bled the top two bleeders on the master cylinder and nothing. It will pump up if you pump the hell out of it but as soon as you quit pumping and wait a few second and hit it again it will go right back to the floor. My dad tried to get the bleeder open and snapped one off so now hes gotta fix it tomorrow at work. So Im kinda fucked right now anyway. Im so close to just saying fuck it and buying Cobra calipers __________________ FX4 Crew Crew member #1 Don't take anything I say to heart, I don't try to come off as an asshole. It just happens

February 10th, 2010, 08:24 PM	#3
sharkbait Hooo Ha Ha 1997 Mustang GT 11.65 @ 115 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Pasadena MD Posts: 9,743 iTrader: 10 reviews	+1 on cobra calipers. Is she low on brake fluid? idk just a guess __________________ 410rwhp 520rwtq @ 12.9 psi

February 10th, 2010, 08:34 PM	#4
F8L GT !FACEPLATED! 2002 Mustang GT 7.84 @ 86.01 Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Upper Michigan Posts: 12,917 iTrader: 13 reviews	Bleeding is RR, LR, RF LF. You start the farthest from the master and work your way to it. __________________ MM Bracket Racing Crew Co-Founder ~Its a Drag Car, Not a Show Car~ LINK-->Custom Race Transmission Build<--LINK

February 10th, 2010, 10:50 PM	#8
neverfastenough1 Hardcore Enthusiast 2002 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2007 Location: Savannah, Ga Posts: 2,789 iTrader: 3 reviews	Yeah, Cobra brakes. You'll still have to bleed them. Get new bleeders and go from there. Bleed all the brakes like said and then the master cylinder. I always get more air out of the master cylinder. __________________

April 17th, 2010, 12:05 AM	#11
GTCON Regular 1999 Mustang GT 13.8@100 Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 96 iTrader: 0 reviews	Hey guys, sorry to resurect this again but, I am about to bleed my brakes soon to put on my Roush/Alcon big brake kit. I just want to make sure I got some of the sequences right. From what I have heard I thought bleeding the master cylinder (by the 2 bleed screws) and then the RR, LR, RF, LF was correct? Should I follow this way or bleed them like advised above where one should bleed all the wheels first and then the master cylinder? Let me know what is the best way to go about doing this. Also, Ive never bled the master cylinder by the bleed screws. Is it the same process as the wheels? (pump up to get pressure, press and hold pedal while one of the bleeder screws is opened, then close the screw before letting pedal go, and repeat). And which screw should be bled first? The one closest to the firewall or the one closest to the battery, or can they be bled at the same time? Please let me know any info, and thanks in advance! Last edited by GTCON; April 17th, 2010 at 12:12 AM.

April 1st, 2010, 04:30 AM	#9
GTCON Regular 1999 Mustang GT 13.8@100 Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 96 iTrader: 0 reviews	are there any good step by step manuals for bleeding the master cylinder? i keep hearing about having to "bench bleed" the master cylinder if it comes down to actually having to do it. Is this correct or does bleeding it by the 2 bleeder screws on the bottom like a few people have said work?? please let me know if anyone can give me some tips, ill be doing this in a few weeks.

April 1st, 2010, 04:51 AM	#10
jessemachone The Big Spoon 88 5.0 5 Speed Notch <>< never fast enough Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: PHL -> PHX Posts: 3,069 iTrader: 0 reviews	yes, you will have to bench bleed it first in a vise. Make sure that any shipping goo has been cleaned from the piston area there the pushrod goes in. (I had an issue with a stickey shipping substance being in there and not letting the piston return all the way to home base. Until I got that piston issue resolved, it wouldnt properly bleed) If you dont have a vise, you can bolt it into the car and have a buddy help you out by pumping the brakes while you hold the tubes in the reservoir. The help aisle at the auto part store may sell a bleeding help kit with some clips on it that would let you do it by yourself. You would have to rig a mirror up so you can see when it is properly bled (no bubbles) when you're pumping.

April 17th, 2010, 12:31 AM	#14
Cookie Regular 1996 MUSTANG GT Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Suffolk, VA. Posts: 179 iTrader: 0 reviews	Don't y'all use clamps? ...Gotta clamp off those hoses, keeps the air out....Snap on has a cool set (at least that's where I got mine...don't know who else carries them...) Next time Sug, use clamps. __________________ “I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day.” ~Frank Sinatra

April 17th, 2010, 12:32 AM	#15
Cookie Regular 1996 MUSTANG GT Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Suffolk, VA. Posts: 179 iTrader: 0 reviews	Oh HELL! and have ya checked your lines? any leaks? and how does the seals look on your calipers and MC? How much fluid have ya "lost"? __________________ “I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day.” ~Frank Sinatra

April 17th, 2010, 07:47 AM	#16
01KnightRiderGT Hardcore Enthusiast 2001 Mustang GT Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Miami,FL Posts: 1,817 iTrader: 0 reviews	HERE IS YOUR SOLUTION CLICK NOW!!!!! __________________ Black Stang Member #13 315's Crew Founder My Track Videos

April 17th, 2010, 11:58 AM	#17
Triton03 Regular 2003 Mustang GT 13.2@99mph w/slicks notch 14.1@ 97mph Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Winchester Posts: 63 iTrader: 0 reviews	What kind of brake fluid are you using? should be using DOT 3. Make sure its not contaminated with water.

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