[JbLittle86]

Hey guys, im new to the site. I have a 2001 GT 5 speed, 3:55 gear, Professional Products 75mm TB and plenum, X-Pipe with Flowmasters, K&N CAI, and Predator tuned. i want to put in a new cam and intake and im looking for suggestions, type of cam, do i need new springs, etc... It is an everyday driver so im not looking for anything crazy but i would like to get to the 300rwhp area or as close as possible.

[sharkbait]

Well cams are the way to go. I think (correct me if im wrong) you can get hitech stage 2s and run the stock springs.

Your intake manifold is fine. There accualy very very good.

[Scott2001GT]

ok...most, if not everyone will say "keep your stock intake the flow fine" so there's that

Cams...yes hitechs dont require springs but if your there might as well. But a good N/A stage 2 cam will be good for you!

CMS
Comp
Crower
ect.

[ajm]

^

Keep the factory intake.

Get valve springs. Doing cams w/o springs is like pokin a chick w/o a rubber and still pulling out. Just kinda defeats the purpose.....Why have a cam thats gonna allow you to make power up to 6k+ but springs that crap out and limit you at 5400-5500?

Scott pretty much covered all the ones to look into that are well known/have good results.

[realrider88]

so stage 2 means you need better springs? wat does stage 1 and 3 mean then?

[ajm]

"wat does stage 1 and 3 mean then?

Nothing, a stage is just a reference number...it means nothing at all. Its a simple way for the company to label their cams from least to most radical.

Generally speaking though yes stage 2 cams need valve springs.

[fugie]

I am running the comp cams xe270 grind in my car, cams have a great sounding idle and cams pull hard to about 6000 rpms. I also used the comp cams required valve springs. I also agree why put in perf cams and run the stock valve springs!

[mrbigjeep]

i have the hitech cams and like. you should get 290-300 with FULL bolt ons including longtubes. and btw i have stock springs and it was ran up to 6300 on the dyno several times with absolutely no problems or signs of valve float. runs like a champ.

[Dolbs4082]

Originally Posted by fugie I am running the comp cams xe270 grind in my car, cams have a great sounding idle and cams pull hard to about 6000 rpms. I also used the comp cams required valve springs. I also agree why put in perf cams and run the stock valve springs!

I've got the comp 270 as well. and my car stopped creating power at 5800 rpm on the dyno so they are def good cams, but i would like to see more rpm personally... i've got stage 2 heads and better springs and thats where mine pooped out haha

[jdos1]

Would you have to get new cam gears?
Also would getting any stage of cams require a dyno?

[SteviGX]

Originally Posted by jdos1 Would you have to get new cam gears? Also would getting any stage of cams require a dyno?

Why gets cams and leave the tune, can't take advantage of maybe 20% of the power increase if that.

My car ran like absolute shit before I got it retuned. Died all the time, sputtered. Just do it right, get springs and a tune. If you need the tool I have one for sale. Just don't drop a valve like I did . Thanks again ajm

[01MGGT]

I am running CMs stage 1 cams with stock springs. These are very close to hitech stage 2. I love the power! Do need a little more gear to get in the powerband quicker but above 3500 they pull like crazy! Was able to tune them using just the delta force software.

[SteviGX]

Originally Posted by 01MGGT I am running CMs stage 1 cams with stock springs. These are very close to hitech stage 2. I love the power! Do need a little more gear to get in the powerband quicker but above 3500 they pull like crazy! Was able to tune them using just the delta force software.

I definately agree with you on the gear. I just got my 3:73's this past weekend and almost wish I had done 4:10's just to hit it quicker. We will see how she does at the track.

Basically it comes down to what you really want out of cams, choppy idle...midrange power, upper rpm power. Every cam is going to give you different power bands and ranges. Just pick the one that is going to give you what you are wanting because you are always going to get different opinions.

[jdos1]

Well...since they require tunes, I'm definitely not gonna scratch up $500 for a dyno tune...so cams are out of the question until I'm out of school

[SteviGX]

Originally Posted by jdos1 Well...since they require tunes, I'm definitely not gonna scratch up $500 for a dyno tune...so cams are out of the question until I'm out of school

I've got a mail order tune man. Yeah, you are going to get the most out of a dyno tune, but a mail order tune as long as you get it tweaked will be fine. Nothing in this game a cheap.

[01MGGT]

email tune for me too

[ajm]

Originally Posted by jdos1 Would you have to get new cam gears? Also would getting any stage of cams require a dyno?

Count your valve cover bolts. 11 = no need for gears 12/13 = need for gears, spacers, and washers. Good idea to replace the bolts no matter what since theyre TTY.

No need for a dyno tune for a cam that isnt extremely wild an email tune from a good place will do fine. Funny part is the email tune when I was NA (cams and few other odds/ends) was better than the dyno tune for when I went to FI.

[jdos1]

Originally Posted by ajm Count your valve cover bolts. 11 = no need for gears 12/13 = need for gears, spacers, and washers. Good idea to replace the bolts no matter what since theyre TTY. No need for a dyno tune for a cam that isnt extremely wild an email tune from a good place will do fine. Funny part is the email tune when I was NA (cams and few other odds/ends) was better than the dyno tune for when I went to FI.

Yay! This means cams may be in the works...

[JbLittle86]

Thanks for the input!! i think i have it narrowed down to either the Hitech Stage 2 or Comp XE262H