[RFM 40th V6]

OK here goes.

I bought this 2000 GT with 80K miles on it a while ago for $1920. I will be pulling the engine and trans to rebuild if I have enough money before November. The engine will be getting all new gaskets, seals, rings, bearings, timing chain, tensioners and valve springs. The trans will get new bearings and blocking rings/syncros.

It needed some minor repairs but nothing I couldn't handle.

As of now I've completed a list of all the parts, performance and appearance for what I want. The car will be a street strip car but not my DD, since I have my 6er as well. I'm going to lay out the list with links to what I've found to be the lowest prices on those parts. If you happen to know where I could get a better deal on the said parts please let me know. I'm trying to save as much money as possible on the parts. I'm not looking for low quality parts since I want it to be a reliable car but I don't want to pay more than I have to. Also any suggestions are greatly appreciated as well as feedback on any parts that you've used/tested/own.

My goal for the car is to see around 400 RWHP and 430 RWTQ.


NOTE: Any Ford parts I can get at invoice pricing since I work in a dealer. I'll price them out next time I get chance but if you know of a low price please let me know. Sometimes it ends up being the same or cheaper.

Anything with a * next to it I already own.
Performance:
KB 2.1L 9 PSI intercooled kit - $5000
Includes
Billet BIG BORE Twin Screw 2.1L Supercharger
Hi-Flo Inlet Manifolds
Billet Bypass Valve Assembly
Bar and Plate Intercooler ("Intercooled" kit only)
HD Heat Exchanger ("Intercooled" kit only)
Intercooler Pump ("Intercooled" kit only)
Water Fill Reservoir ("Intercooled" kit only)
Re-calibrated Mono Chip
36lb Injectors
BOOST-A-PUMP™
Fuel Rails ('96-'00)
160° Calibrated Thermostat)

Ford GT Supercar pump -$159.79 Rock Auto, $138.78 Dealer
Ford Racing 31 spline T-lok w/ carbon discs - $239.99 LMR
Moser 31 spine hardened axles (2) - $269.90 Summit
Ford Racing Alum DS - $255.95 Summit
*Ford Racing 3.73's - $20
Bearings/Fluid - Dealer?
Steeda Tri-AX Shifter t-45 - $179.95 AM
Shifter gasket - $10.95 AM, Dealer?
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch kit 10 Spline - $359.99 AM
Spec Alum Flywheel 8 bolt - $334.99 AM
*BBK H pipe
*Flowmaster 40 Cat back
Engine rebuild - Ford?
Trans rebuild - $150 Ford

POSSIBLE SHORTBLOCK:
MMR 4.6 Street Mod 600 (up to 600 RWHP) $2499

Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
New Ford Racing Cast Iron Crankshaft rated up to 600HP (8 bolt or 6 bolt)
New 4340 5.933 MMR (Modular Mustang Racing) I-beam Rods, these rods are
shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched w/ ARP Hardware
New Forged Manley lightweight pistons
Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application,
nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
Tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving
shortblock available, Pre-Lubricated with Royal Purple Assembly Lube and spin tested. Lastly 3 technicians sign off on your new engine prior to packaging and crating.

Options:
Upgrade to MMR block side bolts (recommended for 500+ HP) +$44.99
MMR Street/Racing Oil Pump (highly recommended) + $159.99
MMR/Felpro Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $169.99
ARP Headstuds +$269.99
7 quart oil pan +$299.99

Suspension:
MM FLSFC's - $119.00 MM
j&M CC plates - $164.99 AM
H&R Race Springs - $249.99 AM
Tokico HP rear shocks (2) Factory shocks are leaking. -$119.98 AM
UPR Pro Series Chrome Moly Adj LCA's with double spherical bushings - $169.99 UPR

Tires/Wheels
Black Chrome Saleen Rims
18x10 rear (2) - 389.98 AM
18X9 front (2) - 349.98 AM
275/35/18 Sumitomo HTR z II (2) - $244.00 TireRack
285/35/18 Nitto 555R (2) - $556.00

Styling:
Mach 1 Grill -$54.95 Dealer, 69.99 AM
Mach 1 Chin Spoiler - $96.48 Dealer, $99.99 AM
15% Tint - $125
Smoked fog lights - $89.99 AM
Dark Smoked head lights - $199.99 AM
Smoked Tail lights - $12 VHT
Fresh Paint Job - $2000-$3000

ESTIMATED TOTAL: $12,500 + $3370 If I do an MMR shortblock.
Obviously this is going to take some time to complete and of course performance will be done first.

[pyschopath76]

man it sounds like you got your build on lock! good luck with it man and keep us posted on how it goes...cant wait to see the progress come together!

[mell0]

you could actually go with the SVT focus pump instead of the GT pump, especially considering the kenne bell kit comes with a BAP. the SVT focus pump install is a breeze, and it coupled with the BAP will be more than enough for 400rwhp.

[B0B]

+1 looks like a good start.. its gonna be a lot of work and money but it will be a nice car when its done. add a couple k to that and you'll have a more realistic price.. theres small shit that will nickel and dime you into the thousands.

[GTermi]

Originally Posted by mell0 you could actually go with the SVT focus pump instead of the GT pump, especially considering the kenne bell kit comes with a BAP. the SVT focus pump install is a breeze, and it coupled with the BAP will be more than enough for 400rwhp.

i agree, use the boost a pump with this. or get a cobra tank! awesome design

[Scott2001GT]

get your GT pump at Lethelperformance.

Get a Grill Delete and mach1 splitter at AM.com

if your goin into the engine get some pistons and rods man you wont regret the extra confort! But nice list man!

[RFM 40th V6]

Originally Posted by pyschopath76 man it sounds like you got your build on lock! good luck with it man and keep us posted on how it goes...cant wait to see the progress come together!

Thanks. I'll be sure to keep updates going as I get them. It's a long term build considering that I'm working part time while I'm in college.

Originally Posted by mell0 you could actually go with the SVT focus pump instead of the GT pump, especially considering the kenne bell kit comes with a BAP. the SVT focus pump install is a breeze, and it coupled with the BAP will be more than enough for 400rwhp.

Thanks for the input, I'll look into that. What is different between the two installs? Does the housing for the pump have to be modded in any way more so than the other?

Originally Posted by B0B +1 looks like a good start.. its gonna be a lot of work and money but it will be a nice car when its done. add a couple k to that and you'll have a more realistic price.. theres small shit that will nickel and dime you into the thousands.

Yeah but that's why I'm hoping my dealer connections will get me a price break. Also since I'm doing all the work myself I think the only real expense that I cant do myself is tuning it.

Originally Posted by GTermi i agree, use the boost a pump with this. or get a cobra tank! awesome design

Is the Cobra tank better because it's sumped? How would that help in the long run?

Originally Posted by Scott2001GT get your GT pump at Lethelperformance. Get a Grill Delete and mach1 splitter at AM.com if your goin into the engine get some pistons and rods man you wont regret the extra confort! But nice list man!

I was thinking about it but I won't be able to afford it before November. I was thinking about seeing how long this one would last before I go forged. I know I'll probably want over 500 after I get 400 and over 600 after I get 500. That's just the way it goes.

I'm thinking about keeping it at 400 for a while enjoying it and saving up for a stronger full forged bottom end.

Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate it.

[sharkbait]

Why not throw in a built shortblock while your at it?

With a built MMR block you could go way past 400rwhp with that setup. Skip the paint job and you wont even go up in price

[RFM 40th V6]

The paint job was a last step finishing touch. I could put it off even longer. It's not like I really care about what it looks like so much. Hell it kinda adds to the, god that car looks awful, it must be slow thing.

I might do that. The problem is going to be getting a place to keep the short block since I live in an apt complex... Maybe I'll just order it all at once and save my self the time and hassle of it. That's like a years pay with no fun for me though. Lol.

Although I don't need any of the other stuff to get the performance I want... I'd just need it so that I could get traction.

[stangpride04]

if you order little by little you'd probably get frustrated and more than likely sell it all and the car half way through. i know that's what i'd do. better to enjoy what you have save big and buy big and do it all at once so you're not skipping or skimping on anything and you'll have yourself a sweet ride you're off to a good start though! 3.73s with a kb will be perfect.

[mell0]

the SVT focus pump is literally a drop in replacement. same size as the stock fuel pump. the GT pump requires a bit of modification to the pump itself and the fuel basket. there are a bunch of threads regarding the GT pump installation that you can check out.

[RFM 40th V6]

If I decide to up it to 500+ RWHP and a built bottom end would the SVT Focus pump be able to keep up?

I looked at some of the threads about the Focus/GT pumps. Some people say that the Focus pump can't handle more than 400 RWHP with the BP, because it will max out the duty cycle.

[cedsks]

svt focus pump should have no problem, if you find that the pressure is not to par, install an inline pump to increase pressure and flow rate. just make sure that you have a reduction method ready like a vavle or orafice plate.

[RFM 40th V6]

I'm not so much worried about pressure as I am delivery. If the pump can't flow enough fuel because the duty cycle is maxed it's no good to me.

[mell0]

well kenne bell designs the kit so that the BAP works with the stock pump. the guy i bought my BAP from is running just an SVT focus pump with his kenne bell setup, and he is making just over 430rwhp, so i would bet the SVT pump and BAP could get you close to, if not over 500rwhp.

[RFM 40th V6]

Ok cool. I think I'll do that.

I'm going to go ahead and get the KB first and the supporting mods I'll need too. I might hold off on the alum fly wheel and ds for now as well. But I think that I need 3.55s at least to run the blower. So I might still have to build the rear before I do anything.

[mell0]

well if you're going to do the clutch, you might as well just do the flywheel too. get it done while you're in there.

[Scott2001GT]

i dont see a focus pump with BAP gettin you over 500...honestly I say your lucky at 460 if that...IMHO.

If your dropping the tank why not get a GT and not worry about it? Yes little mods but hell I am 19 and with some friends help did it....I am you can as well!

[NO_PI_NO_POWER]

Originally Posted by RFM 40th V6 Ok cool. I think I'll do that. I'm going to go ahead and get the KB first and the supporting mods I'll need too. I might hold off on the alum fly wheel and ds for now as well. But I think that I need 3.55s at least to run the blower. So I might still have to build the rear before I do anything.

With full boost available at 2,000rpm, I'm sure you could use 2.73's if you wanted. I like the 3.73's in mine, but 3.55's are nice too. If you're putting a forged shortblock in, don't mind adding a hood, and you have someone to tune it, remember the 2.6 is an option

[RFM 40th V6]

If I run the GT pump won't I also need an upgraded FPDM?

I think I'm just dreaming when I talk about the short block. I didn't want to spend over 10,000 for everything. I'll probably ditch the paint and call it a day with everything else and just run 400 RWHP. I'd probably be more than happy with it that way.

Although if the engine ever does go, then I'll get a short block.