[ICFlash]

Today, I left my place of employment as miserable as usual and hopped into my car. When I turned the key and listened to the rumble that I have become so dearly fond of, I noticed that my service engine soon light was steady on and my O/D light was blinking. I disregarded the O/D light since it will come on and blink at me once or twice every 6 months since I've had the car. The service engine soon light did not instantly worry me because I figured that I could get it home and take it to a mechanic in the morning if the need arose being that it would be all of 3 miles. As I made my way home, the transmission wouldn't shift properly, it was shifting really hard up or down, and a clinking noise developed from somewhere under the bench seat/trunk area. Both lights stayed as previously mentioned when I got it into my garage and upon two subsequent restarts. I am so pissed I can't think straight and the vodka isn't helping that either.

Quick Rundown of problems:

Service Engine Soon light steady on
O/D light blinking
Hard shifts
Awesome clinking sound
There appears to be no leaks.

My plan of action with * next to what I have done or am doing after posting this:
1) Cry*
2) Run to MM*
3) Check transmission and differential fluids*
4) Cry*
5) Run back to MM*

Any help would be appreciated.

[Xtremist]

Well a start would be to check the codes your car is pulling to create that check engine light.

I've heard autozone does this for free? Or use your handheld tuner if you own one.

[ajm]

Start with the codes and dropping the trans pan.

[jdlsstang]

That Sucks!! Hope It Works Out....

[ICFlash]

Here's all the codes that it threw:

P1000
P0713
P1746
P1760
P1747
P0750
P0755
P0743

I'm going to look these up after I come home from the gym and ease my frustration. Thanks for the input so far.

[Xtremist]

Originally Posted by ICFlash Here's all the codes that it threw: P1000 P0713 P1746 P1760 P1747 P0750 P0755 P0743 I'm going to look these up after I come home from the gym and ease my frustration. Thanks for the input so far.

P1000 - OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
P0713 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P1746 - Pressure Control Solenoid A Open Circuit
P1760 - Pressure Control Solenoid A Short Circuit Intermittent
P1747 - Pressure Control Solenoid A Short Circuit
P0750 - Shift Solenoid A
P0755 - Shift Solenoid B
P0743 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0743 - TCC Solenoid Circuit

All Tranny codes

[RFM 40th V6]

Sounds like a valve body... that or something is wrong with the harness.

[limited]

check harness and all trans fuses first

[ICFlash]

Xtremist - Thanks for looking those up. I started googling and this thread came up with your answer.

RFM and limited - The fuses are all good and I will be checking the harness after I get off work tonight. I lent my jack and stands out and I'm too much of a puss to get under there with it just on a scissor jack, since one just gave out on my dad while he was not underneath thankfully.

If it is something with the valve body, would it be a good time to put a shift kit or something else in?

You can haz reps this evening.

[ICFlash]

What do I need to look out for when I drop the pan? Any special prep, or just get under there and unbolt it? Getting fluid back in shouldn't be an issue right? Keep in mind that I have an auto.

[casper gt]

all those codes belong to sensors/solenoids/switches that share a common harness (ie the trans harness on the front.pass. side of trans) either the plug is loose or you lost power to the trans harness (easy to check from plug on pass side of eng. compartment, connector right above main engine harness connector). best not to drive the car till this is sorted out.

[ICFlash]

I took the three connections, one of them has a 10mm bolt in the middle, towards the passenger side corner away from the headlights apart and sprayed them with air. I'm unsure of where the engine main connection is and what it looks like. Are those the right ones? Anything I should do different if those are the right ones or when I find the right ones?

[casper gt]

Originally Posted by ICFlash I took the three connections, one of them has a 10mm bolt in the middle, towards the passenger side corner away from the headlights apart and sprayed them with air. I'm unsure of where the engine main connection is and what it looks like. Are those the right ones? Anything I should do different if those are the right ones or when I find the right ones?

the eng. harness is the one with the bolt, the trans harness plug is above it & closer to the firewall. be sure (ie. with a volt meter) that the red wire in the body side connector has battery voltage when the key is on.

[ICFlash]

I used a circuit tester and it shows that there is power running there.

[casper gt]

Originally Posted by ICFlash I used a circuit tester and it shows that there is power running there.

make shure its plugged in on the trans & has power there too (after you plug the one in the eng. compartment back in).

[ICFlash]

How do I go about finding this one? The side that I previously tested runs towards the fender well. I am hoping that's the correct one to follow. Is it going to wind up being underneath and close to the same location as the previous one?

[RFM 40th V6]

You could check for power at the trans its self. There is a harness connection on the left side of the trans above the pan. Pull it out and check for power when the key is on.

If you do decide to drop the pan. The gasket is reusable, make sure you don't just take all the bolts out and let go. You'll have a nice trans fluid bath if you do. Loosen up the bolts on the pan on both sides at the same time and drop it from one end at a time. That way it pours out instead of falling out.

To put the fluid back in just pour the fluid back down the dipstick tube for the trans. It's kind of hard to see but it's on the back left side of the engine. If you drop the pan you may as well change the filter while you're there. When you've put it all back together you'll need about 6-7 quarts of trans fluid.

Pour 3 down the dipstick for the trans before starting it up then pour the rest in checking the level after each quart. It should take 6.

You will need Mercon V trans fluid.

[ICFlash]

The one that you can barely see with some hydraulic arm in the way too? It looks like it might be easier to drop the pan and go at it. Would removing that little arm help me at all? How will I know which little connection to check?

[ICFlash]

I finally had the time to get that plug undone and test it. There's power running to the orange wire but there's not power going to the red wire. What do I get to do from here? Can I use a small length of wire and try to jump it?

[ICFlash]

That didn't work. If I drop the pan, what exactly am I looking for? I do not consider myself a good mechanic. I follow directions and that's about it. Thanks guys.