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Old April 13th, 2010, 10:59 PM   #1
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cam install


If someone could guide me in the right direction to install cams on winsor heads that are already off the car to include the tightening sequence would be appriciated. I am keeping the same springs, just a cam swap. everything i looked into involves changing the springs also.
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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:01 PM   #2
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you got the cams already?
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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:04 PM   #3
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If someone could guide me in the right direction to install cams on winsor heads that are already off the car to include the tightening sequence would be appriciated.

Put assembly lube on the caps and cams, drop the cams in place, lube the caps, torque the caps to spec/in sequence...get a chiltons or similar for that info or google. Thats all there is to it for "installing the cams with the heads removed"

One way or the other its a waste of time. Its gonna be a pain in the ass to torque the caps while the heads are sitting in front of you/nothing holding them still as well as installing the head bolts with the cams in place. Just do it all while its on the car.


Edit...Seen youre from TN. Go check out tnmustangclub.com theyre some smart guys im sure they can help you.

Why do the cams and not springs? Especially with the heads removed.....easiest way to do the springs by far....

Last edited by ajm; April 13th, 2010 at 11:11 PM.
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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:06 PM   #4
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are these cams prone to snapping? I know When i was into bimmers, there was a special toold that you were supposed to have that held even pressure over the entire cam becasue they were prone to snapping.

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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:08 PM   #5
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like the camshaft break in half? LOL?
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IW 15% OD pulley
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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:09 PM   #6
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yeah, i think th ebmw cams were hollow or something. They were expensive as shit too. A custom set would run well over $1000
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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:09 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by SS Ball3r View Post
are these cams prone to snapping? I know When i was into bimmers, there was a special toold that you were supposed to have that held even prssue over the entire cam becasue they were prone to snapping.
never heard of such a thing on these cars. Dont surprise me on a bmw though, picky ass cars.
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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:10 PM   #8
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like i said, im pretty sure they were holow for weight savings.
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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:11 PM   #9
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you'll be aight. Just bolt them in as AJM said.
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4.75 MMR 900se
Livernois ported heads
HP 292s blower cams
Procharger D1sc at 20+ psi
IW 15% OD pulley
(and more bolt ons)
E85

Tune/numbers coming shortly!!
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Old April 13th, 2010, 11:50 PM   #10
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yeah i already have them. there hitech stage 2. they said they didn't require springs and its saving me some money by not buying them if i don't go over 6400 rpm
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Old April 14th, 2010, 11:05 AM   #11
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um just personal experience. id put the heads back on the motor then install the cams. other wise your going to bolt your cam caps down and get everything in set, and not be able to adjust timing when you start wrapping your timing chains, so just tryin to save you some time and disappointment.
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Old April 15th, 2010, 08:54 PM   #12
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the cams are hollow btw
i got the timing sprocket off the old cams and as i am putting them on the new hitech cams the bolt doesn't fit. its to small. they are originally from comp cams and i went to there website and couldn't find any bolts. i also went to advanced auto and couldn't find any bolts that fit. i am installing the cams myself on the heads but am going to have a shop put the new heads and intake on because i don't have the right tools to do it myself or the time. they wanted to charge me 800 to install the new cams so i thought i would at least do that myself and its 1300 for the head and intake install.
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Old April 15th, 2010, 09:02 PM   #13
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Thats because you need a 14mm bolt, oem is 12. Go to ford and tell them you need a 14mm cam gear bolt. Its the same bolt/part number as the crank pulley bolt.

i am installing the cams myself on the heads but am going to have a shop put the new heads and intake on because i don't have the right tools to do it myself or the time.


Youre shitting me right? thats not gonna save you any money. It doesnt take but 5 minutes max to lay your cams in place and torque the caps to spec in sequence. Which would prolly pay about .4-1 at a shop x labor rate which mechanical avg at a ford dealership in TN is about 80-85. So its not saving you anything. Especially when the guy doing the work knows he can R&I the cams, and make up for the time torquing the head bolts vs the cams getting in the way and taking longer torquing the head bolts.

I think what they meant was 800 for a complete cam install as in remove your old ones, install the new ones, time it, put everything back right (which is incl. in a head change). Not just bolt them to the heads and charge you 800.

I can tell somone is from TN...
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