2003 GT 4.6 Engine Crisis! (Bad week)
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Old June 6th, 2010, 06:07 PM   #1
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2003 GT 4.6 Engine Crisis! (Bad week)


So, I was driving around the other day with my friend... and my engine seized up. Won't start now. I changed the oil not too far back (probably a little passed-due, at around 6-7,000 mi. ago?) The car has only roughly 70,000 mi. on it. Due to my recent neglect (been busy/out-of-town, not driving alot) my car had apparently been burning off oil? Unbenounced to myself. Atleast that's what it would seem. The oil dip is very low. Some rods broke down in the block it sounds like (loose rattling sounds on trying to turn)...Probably some sealed piston heads (Bad stuff).

I know it's a very stupid predicament. What I am trying to decide now is what to do? I still owe roughly $8,000 on the car and my budget is as slim as possible. The irony is this all happened on the same day I just bought $200 in tune-up parts/fluids from AM.com.

The way I see it my options are as follows: An engine swap, engine rebuild (shop) or engine rebuild (DIY). I'm leaning towards an engine rebuild. The problem is that my technical engine know-how stops somwhere after changing my oil/ installing a CAI and before engine bores and engine timing.

I'm leaning towards a shop rebuild (hoping if just a few parts need replacement, it won't cost me my arm). I've found a shop I want to look in-to because they are reasonable at $65/hr. Small shop, if they seem reputable somewhat and capable, could be a good deal if takes under 20 hours. I guess my other last option would be selling it to a more DIY Mustang driver, but I really wouldn't know what to expect to get on return?

Any advice? experiences? knowledge? What can I look to expect for a reasonable shop rebuild time? Would all be greatly appreciated in this bind! A definite life lesson the hard way in the books.
Only mods on the car are a Steeda Short shift, Steeda suspension, Steeda CAI, MagnaFlow Cat-back, 3.73 gearing.

Thanks for any knowledge and experience guys,
-Matt
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Old June 6th, 2010, 06:50 PM   #2
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if its real bad see if you can find a local replacement and just swap motors.
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Old June 6th, 2010, 06:52 PM   #3
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This sucks man. Theres a lot of different ways to go about this. The direction you go depends mostly on what the car is mainly used for, your goals for the car, and what kind of budget you have. Where are you located?
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Old June 6th, 2010, 06:55 PM   #4
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i would just swap out the motor. or if its just the block maybe put in a cobra block.
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Old June 6th, 2010, 06:56 PM   #5
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Man you need to get an afternarket oil pressure gauge when/if you get it back together. The stock gauge always reads normal even if the pressure is super low. It reads normal from i think 8psi up to 20,50,150+. As in if it senses at least 8psi its gonna say your good on oil pressure, thats what might a happened to ya. Oil got low, low pressure but you didnt know it bc of the stock gauge
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Old June 6th, 2010, 08:00 PM   #6
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if your mechanical know how is low, i would consider buying a stock replacement engine, a case of beer, ordering a couple pizza's, calling some friends, and doing an engine swap in a weekend. fwiw, rods don't usually break when you neglect to change the oil. you usually spin a rod bearing, etc...but not break a rod. that takes alot of high revs or usually a power adder.
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Old June 6th, 2010, 08:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by tbirdscwd View Post
This sucks man. Theres a lot of different ways to go about this. The direction you go depends mostly on what the car is mainly used for, your goals for the car, and what kind of budget you have. Where are you located?
I'm actually located in Fairfield, ca. Hah, you're in Davis, right? So right by you. Uhmm well the car is/was my only car. So it's obviously my commuter, weekend, everything. Although I don't commute very far for work/school. I've just always liked muscle/sports cars. This is my second; my first a 94' corvette auto. I picked this one up with about 38,000 miles at the dealership I worked at the time (roughly 2 years back). It was in pretty decent condition (since I've had 2 people ding both sides of my car!! grrr).

My budget isn't much right now. I obviously had not planned for this to happen... So I only have about $1,000-1,5000 to spend right now. (Granted I am aware a shop would run me more most likely). I really have no choice but to fix this thing though, so my budget is whatever is most affordable.

If I were to rebuild myself (considering buying some DIY walk-through step-by-step books and lots of online research/forums) I would probably look into upgrading some of the parts with higher-grade/ higher performance parts (i.e. cam, headers, throttle body, clutch/flywheel?) The better parts would increase my DIY budget probably over $2k, but would be worth it I suppose.

If I went to a shop that could do the job in under 20 hours (hoping it's just a replacement of some pistons, rods, etc... obviously they will want to replace other smaller parts as well) and I would just use mainly OEM parts I presume to save some cost. Like I said, I found a shop that runs $65/hr. If they do quality work somewhat, that might be fairly affordable...just dunno. I've gotta get the head off so I can make sure no block damage is done. I'm hoping there isn't; it's a fairly strong block and not much aftermarket stress.
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Old June 6th, 2010, 08:06 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by mustanginky View Post
if your mechanical know how is low, i would consider buying a stock replacement engine, a case of beer, ordering a couple pizza's, calling some friends, and doing an engine swap in a weekend. fwiw, rods don't usually break when you neglect to change the oil. you usually spin a rod bearing, etc...but not break a rod. that takes alot of high revs or usually a power adder.
Yeah it's just too expensive for a reman'd block. I'd spend nearly half my car's worth before it was all said and done. I've been reading through some DIY engine rebuilds and they don't seem much more tecnically taxing than a full engine swap would be.
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Old June 6th, 2010, 08:24 PM   #9
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if the engine wont turn over the block may not be rebuildable, i say just replace it. you can get these motors off of ebay, cl, junk yards.
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Old June 6th, 2010, 08:48 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by carnut59 View Post
if the engine wont turn over the block may not be rebuildable, i say just replace it. you can get these motors off of ebay, cl, junk yards.
I found this site flitelineengines.com . They advertise a reman'd 4.6 short block for about $1,100 with free shipping. The only thing is I don't see any warranty listed on the page...bad sign. Anyone know of any good reputable/ inexpensive remanufacturers?
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Old June 6th, 2010, 08:53 PM   #11
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rebuilding would cost you more than finding a wrecked semi-local car. i looked at rebuilding mine a couple years ago when it blew and it cost me $600 and a weekend to put in a used block with similar miles. it would have easily cost me $1200-1500 for a stock rebuild.
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Old June 6th, 2010, 10:39 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by mustanginky View Post
rebuilding would cost you more than finding a wrecked semi-local car. i looked at rebuilding mine a couple years ago when it blew and it cost me $600 and a weekend to put in a used block with similar miles. it would have easily cost me $1200-1500 for a stock rebuild.
So, I started browsing Ebay for used motors. I found a post for "95-99? FORD Merc 4.6L 32Valve4Cam V8 Engine"
My question is, should I have any problem installing a 90's aluminum 32V 4cam 4.6l into my 03' GT? What should I look out for in buying a used engine online?
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Old June 7th, 2010, 12:58 AM   #13
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if your heads are ok but your block and rotating assembly isnt, check some of these out

click the links

mmr assembled shortblock $2584.99

ford racing new engine block = $635

livernois rotating assembly $2149

just a few ideas i thought i would throw out there. i know its a lil more than what your budget is, but better knowing its all new than buy a used engine with many unknowns. I know JerseyTrueBlue is sellin an engine on here in the engine section. heres his motor
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Old June 7th, 2010, 01:13 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by DaRn_U_CARB View Post
I'm actually located in Fairfield, ca. Hah, you're in Davis, right? So right by you. Uhmm well the car is/was my only car. So it's obviously my commuter, weekend, everything. Although I don't commute very far for work/school. I've just always liked muscle/sports cars. This is my second; my first a 94' corvette auto. I picked this one up with about 38,000 miles at the dealership I worked at the time (roughly 2 years back). It was in pretty decent condition (since I've had 2 people ding both sides of my car!! grrr).

My budget isn't much right now. I obviously had not planned for this to happen... So I only have about $1,000-1,5000 to spend right now. (Granted I am aware a shop would run me more most likely). I really have no choice but to fix this thing though, so my budget is whatever is most affordable.

If I were to rebuild myself (considering buying some DIY walk-through step-by-step books and lots of online research/forums) I would probably look into upgrading some of the parts with higher-grade/ higher performance parts (i.e. cam, headers, throttle body, clutch/flywheel?) The better parts would increase my DIY budget probably over $2k, but would be worth it I suppose.

If I went to a shop that could do the job in under 20 hours (hoping it's just a replacement of some pistons, rods, etc... obviously they will want to replace other smaller parts as well) and I would just use mainly OEM parts I presume to save some cost. Like I said, I found a shop that runs $65/hr. If they do quality work somewhat, that might be fairly affordable...just dunno. I've gotta get the head off so I can make sure no block damage is done. I'm hoping there isn't; it's a fairly strong block and not much aftermarket stress.
ThI'm aware of a guy selling a fully forged motor from coast high performance here in CA for $1200. That is what I would do if I were you. I'll PM you a link. It is completely balanced and blueprinted with documentation.
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Old June 7th, 2010, 04:10 AM   #15
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Thanks all guys. I'm thinking of seriously looking into the link that Tbird put up for me. It's a PI piston forged Short block with very low mileage, right price and distance.
Now I'm just already looking into what to get with it for install into my stock 03' GT.

The 01-04 GTs came stock with PI heads and aluminum intake manifolds, right? So I'm thinking just a comp cam, new heavier duty clutch kit, flywheel, throttle body, plenum, short headers (valve springs?)... should pretty much make her purr.
Again though, I am not nearly the most knowledgeable. Any advice/ pointers that I'm missing here? Thanks guys.
I may post a new thread about this topic as well. Any help/advice again guys...totally appreciate your time and know-how.
Also, what might push me past CARB standards? I know they're already failing any non-approved aftermarket CAI (such as my Steeda!).

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Old June 7th, 2010, 04:20 AM   #16
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it's much easier swapping a motor than rebuilding it, especially if you don't have the tools to do it.
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Old June 7th, 2010, 08:21 AM   #17
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When my engine blew on my car the first time, similar situation to yours - was burning oil and with a little bit of neglect spun a rod bearing. This was several years ago but I got a 2002 explorer 4.6 long block, swapped over a few parts from my old engine and it was as good as new, I even did a few mods to it while it was sitting on the crate (headers, etc). The long block cost me $900 shipped to my house + a few odds and ends like new gaskets and such. Honestly if you have no plans on exceeding 400 rwhp a forged shortblock is a waste of money IMO. I would also stay away from MMR blocks, I seem to hear more bad than good from those guys lately and their warranty they claim you get with their engines is pretty worthless.

I've done both now, engine swap and a rebuild never did either in my entire life when I did both but I had friends that were constantly doing those things so the parts where I got hung up or needed some help I had people to turn to. Not sure what your situation is but if you have knowledgeable people to help you out it's really not that difficult to rebuild the engine, it's time consuming for sure if you've never done it.
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Old June 7th, 2010, 10:47 AM   #18
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Just make sure whatever you put on is "CARB" legal. I got an emissions ticket for no cats and it's a PITA and not cheap.

Just don't make the car overly loud or eye-catching and you shouldn't have a problem. You can usually still find a smog station that will over-look the intake. And if you get the shorty headers, make sure they're the carb legal ones. I think JBA makes them. Ya don't want to have to take those things back off because you can't pass smog. It's definately getting much more strict out here for modifying your car.

Good luck!
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Old June 7th, 2010, 10:57 AM   #19
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Get a junkyard motor it's by far the cheapest and easiest way to go I was in your same situation and it worked well for me
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Old June 7th, 2010, 11:14 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Reloaded View Post
Just make sure whatever you put on is "CARB" legal. I got an emissions ticket for no cats and it's a PITA and not cheap.

Just don't make the car overly loud or eye-catching and you shouldn't have a problem. You can usually still find a smog station that will over-look the intake. And if you get the shorty headers, make sure they're the carb legal ones. I think JBA makes them. Ya don't want to have to take those things back off because you can't pass smog. It's definately getting much more strict out here for modifying your car.

Good luck!
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