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post #1 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
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options for 2V engine build

OK, my 03GT has 96k on it, runs good however im not comfortable moding it with things heads/cams, because of the high mails it's my DD and only car so i want to start building OR buying an engine,

my goals
keep it a 2v blower making around 500HP, at the lowest possible cost I KNOW - I KNOW
i plan on doing everything myself but the machining and tune.

approach/options
this what i can't decide on, im not in any rush and don't have bunch of cash to drop all at once, i was thinking about picking up a whole complete 2v engine. from junk yard
put it in garage and slowly start building it up, and hope to find good deals on parts on.
ebay/craiglist crank-rods-pistons, i like this approach because i can still use my car and not
have her sitting on jack stands all year,

just wanted to hear how all you guys wint about doing this, any advice would help THANKS

cows are beautiful,
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post #2 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 05:22 AM
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MMR Has layaway. 25% bown and make payments on the rest. They are having a sale right now.
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post #3 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 05:25 AM
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1999.00 for a forged shortblock.
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post #4 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 08:04 AM
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MMR does layaway?

OP, that was my idea of how I was going to build a motor. I was going to find a decent deal on a stock GT motor and take it apart in my spare time and build it up.


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post #5 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 08:10 AM
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i like the idea and may do this as well ive got 70k and am about to put a vortech on it and im sure to get bored with 400hp so after i blow the stock block im hoping to drop something nasty in
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post #6 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worrgp View Post
i like the idea and may do this as well ive got 70k and am about to put a vortech on it and im sure to get bored with 400hp so after i blow the stock block im hoping to drop something nasty in
haha ohhh how ppl would do anythign for 400 rwhp :-p


but yeah, 400 rwhp is def boring lol


MODS:

Vortech V1 T-Trim @ 7.5 PSI (tuned down)
Comp Cams XE270-AH
+ See Garage

432 rwhp / 396 rwtq 02/27/2011
NEW VIDEOS!
**It takes ~$60 a rwhp (over stock) for a 99-04 Mustang GT.** Do the Math
PLANS ON HOLD
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post #7 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 09:22 AM
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Just look around. I just bought a complete mark viii motor (teskid block) with an extra set of heads for $250. I then found a set of modmax rods/mahle pistons bnib for $440 on svtperformance. I'm gonna have a shop build it though.

Procharged 2000 5 Speed BAB GT, built motor, blower cams, 10 lbs, lee blankenship tune 430/405

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post #8 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 10:28 AM
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if you put a real good rotating ass. in the 2v, how much is the block going to hold. im new to mod motors and im trying to get started on my build.
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post #9 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 11:33 AM
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what is mmr?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick99 View Post
MMR Has layaway. 25% bown and make payments on the rest. They are having a sale right now.

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post #10 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 11:38 AM
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Modular mustang racing=MMR. They build engines. A stock iron 4.6 block is good above 500 hp but most, if going over, switch to a teskid aluminum block. They came in Lincoln mark 8's and the 96-98 cobra. Same company makes Italian supercar blocks. They're good over 1000 horsepower.

Procharged 2000 5 Speed BAB GT, built motor, blower cams, 10 lbs, lee blankenship tune 430/405

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post #11 of 11 Old June 20th, 2010, 01:13 PM
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After several builds here are the parts I consider to be the best for most applications.
Teksid block and crank, $300-$500 from most junkyards. Have a good engine shop measure the walls and tell you what size pistons to order.
Mahle pistons...Best out there. I don't care what anyone says I have compared all the pistons and you cannot beat the Mahle setup. They come with rings and tool steel wrist pins. Do the math and they are abotu the cheapest you can get for the quality. They are already phosphorus coated and have teflon coated skirts.
Rods, use the 03/04 cobra rods. Cheap strong and light so it won't cost you a fortune to have it balanced.
All you have left is to figure out what you are doing for heads and to get all your gaskets and studs. The oil pump I prefer the melling unit.
Alan
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