[I8ACMRO]

Originally Posted by stal94gt oh you have to get ajustable uppers to run the lake woods other wise you will get axle binde if your pinion is not set right. i have mine set at -2 degrees.

Ya I'm looking at either CHE adj. uppers, or Baseline Prolaunch #1's anyway.

[DickH]

If you get the lakewood lowers, do not get the baseline uppers. Both are designed to bring your ic back some, however combined you end up bringing it back too much.

[I8ACMRO]

^How is this so? Just asking cuz idk how that works.

[stal94gt]

the only way to get your pinion angle right is to be able to ajust your suspention and measure. i used a magnetic degree wheel. measured what degree my drive shaft was at then my pinion. if it is the wrong degree to will get axle binde and you will destroy your pinion seal.

[I8ACMRO]

Originally Posted by stal94gt the only way to get your pinion angle right is to be able to ajust your suspention and measure. i used a magnetic degree wheel. measured what degree my drive shaft was at then my pinion. if it is the wrong degree to will get axle binde and you will destroy your pinion seal.

No I get that, but why would running the Lakewoods and Baselines not work well together? Like how does that mess up the IC?

[DickH]

your ic is the point where the lines from your control arms cross. Lakewood lowers makes the lower control arm line come up at a sharper angle bringing the ic back, and baseline uppers pretty much do the same thing but for the upper control arms. If your ic is in stock location, or two far forward your car will squat too much. Bringing back the ic is like moving a leverage point so that your car pushes down harder on the axle when weight transfers. There is a point where bringing it back too far will work against you. I have adjustable control arms that I had setup in a way that worked similar to the lakewood lowers, and bought the baseline uppers thinking it would help. I had all sorts of traction problems until I adjusted the lowers to move the ic forward more. Also, if you do get the baseline uppers, don't get the one with bushings. The rear of my car feels so much better now than it did with bushings. Only downside is I can hear alittle extra noise, however I lack a back seat and am sure if I had one I wouldn't really hear anything extra.

[I8ACMRO]

Originally Posted by DickH your ic is the point where the lines from your control arms cross. Lakewood lowers makes the lower control arm line come up at a sharper angle bringing the ic back, and baseline uppers pretty much do the same thing but for the upper control arms. If your ic is in stock location, or two far forward your car will squat too much. Bringing back the ic is like moving a leverage point so that your car pushes down harder on the axle when weight transfers. There is a point where bringing it back too far will work against you. I have adjustable control arms that I had setup in a way that worked similar to the lakewood lowers, and bought the baseline uppers thinking it would help. I had all sorts of traction problems until I adjusted the lowers to move the ic forward more. Also, if you do get the baseline uppers, don't get the one with bushings. The rear of my car feels so much better now than it did with bushings. Only downside is I can hear alittle extra noise, however I lack a back seat and am sure if I had one I wouldn't really hear anything extra.

Wow thanks bro. I'd rep you but I gotta spread the love more I guess That makes total sense now. I'm still up in the air about uppers anyway right now, plus I'm more worried about getting lower torque box reinforcements so I can install my BMR LCA's (don't wanna have to pull the LCA's again to do the TB's)

[DickH]

Most of the time the problem is in the uppers, I haven't read too much where someone fucks up the lower control arm mount. If you are thinking about doing control arms for drag in the future, you should get a set of adjustable lowers or a set like the lakewoods.

[I8ACMRO]

Originally Posted by DickH Most of the time the problem is in the uppers, I haven't read too much where someone fucks up the lower control arm mount. If you are thinking about doing control arms for drag in the future, you should get a set of adjustable lowers or a set like the lakewoods.

Well depending on which UCA's I get will determine which way I go w/ the LCA's down the road (either keeping the BMR's or getting adj./Lakewood LCA's).

[DickH]

Remember they recommend something like adjustable lowers for the baseline uppers.

[I8ACMRO]

Originally Posted by DickH Remember they recommend something like adjustable lowers for the baseline uppers.

I'm already lowered though, half coil cut on stockers, and I also have separate lowering springs that will put me 1.5 inches lower. The way I see what they are saying is see what they will do at stock height, then lower if need be.

[DickH]

oh yeah, lowering your car works against you for drag. With stock or stock like suspension, a lowered car has an ic that is moved forward.