[asiansensation78]

As requested, here's a brief write-up on how to build one for most 99-04 Mustangs. Thanks again to Safi and all the other members who helped me with this project. I'll edit this post every so often to add info or pictures. Feel free to ask questions, though if it's something really dumb that you can just google, like "what's a soldering iron?" or "what's the wiring color on so-and-so alarm system?", I will probably just make fun of you rather than answering the question . There's a lot of customization that can go on with something like this, so to make things simpler to understand, I'll write as if you're doing the most basic system possible. Expect to pay $100 to $400 for parts and tools, depending on all the bells and whistles that you add in to this system. As for security, that's really up to you, as everyone's alarm system is different, so I'm not going to include much info on it. If you're not comfortable or don't have experience with electrical components, wiring, and taking apart/drilling into your car, don't attempt this, as you can seriously mess up your car if you accidentally cross the wrong wires or don't crimp something correctly. If you'd like me to build you a pre-assembled, pre-wired custom kit with specific instructions for your car, e-mail me at jerrymeetsworld@yahoo.com and we can discuss the features, functions, and switch design. I'm able to get most of the parts at a discount, so the entire kit will run about $200 pre-assembled, more or less depending on features. As for ignition harness wire colors, use a voltmeter to double check, as Ford used different color wires for V6, V8, convertible, and Mustangs with different audio systems. With the same method, you can install a push-button start on any other Mustang (or any vehicle for that matter) as long as you identify the wire colors for the ignition harness. As always, reps are appreciated

Here's a video of how it should work:

YouTube - Mustang Keyless Push Button Ignition & Start

YouTube - Mustang Keyless Push Button Ignition & Start

YouTube- ‪Breathing Start Button for Keyless Ignition System‬‎

YouTube- ‪Breathing Start Button for Keyless Ignition System‬‎

Parts needed:
-soldering iron (precision tip)
-soldering wire
-soldering stand
-18 or 16 gauge wire (5 different colors)
-wire crimper & stripper
-dremel tool
-on/off toggle switch
-on/off momentary switch
-5 five-pin relays (get a couple of extras just in case)
-male and female crimp disconnects
-splice taps
-T taps
-3/4" step drill bit
-cordless drill
-voltmeter
-electrical tape
-fuses
-extra PATS key
-plastic wire loom
-zip ties
-heat shrink tubing
-lighter
-scissors
-socket set
-crescent or box wrenches
-pliers

Pulse module:
-555 timer chip
-generic NPN transistor
-220 microF capacitor
-10K wheel potentiometer
-22 gauge wire
-Breadboard (optional)
-liquid electrical tape
-LED
-precision tweezers





Instructions:

This is a typical 5-pin relay:





The relay is actually a pretty amazing device with tons of different uses. Modern cars use a huge number of relays to send power to different components in the car. Essentially when you send power to pin 86, it activates an electromagnet and closes the circuit, which in turn allows you to close a high current circuit. When they are chained together, one switch will allow you to close multiple circuits. The relays I used are rated for 40 amps, though 20 amp relays are probably sufficient. Here's what each pin does:

30: constant 12v (+), from battery
85: constant ground (-)
86: user switched 12v (+), trigger wire that sends power from pin 30 to pin 87 when you switch on
87a: normally closed (+), receives power from pin 30
87: normally open (+), receives power from pin 30 when you activate pin 86



For the 99-04 Mustang, you'll want to chain together 4 of these to send power to the ignition and accessory wires, so go ahead and zip tie them together. Jump terminals 30, 86, and 85, and have a single wire coming out that goes to all 4 relays (picture below). 87 is your output, so you'll want a wire coming out from each pin 87 on the relays. Use electrical tape or shrink wrap and cover up terminal 87a, it won't be used. Make sure to use different color wire so you don't get confused. If you want to use a separate switch for the accessories (radio, windows, etc.), just jump the relays differently and have individual input/output wires on 2 separate relays. Take a break and make sure you wired up everything correctly, as you can fry a lot of stuff in your car if you didn't do this step correctly.









EDIT: The 12v input to the pulse module in this diagram actually won't work for a prolonged period of time. The potentiometer at low resistance actually killed the 555 timer, so I had to build a slightly different circuit that would handle the 12 volts and pulse properly without frying the 555 chip or the LED. I'll update with a new circuit diagram when I get a chance.

This step is for the pulse module, if you don't want one, then skip it. You'll need to get the parts from RadioShack and build this circuit:



And this is what the circuit will actually look like, with all the pins in their correct positions:



One of these will be your best friend during this process:



Careful with the soldering, as you don't want to accidentally solder together any terminals that shouldn't be together. Next, cover up the potentiometer, and spread some liquid electrical tape on your circuit and wait for it to dry:



After it dries, use some heat shrink wrap to put the wires together that go to power, LED, and ground, and then you can just wrap it in electrical tape on top of a piece of plastic, just make sure the potentiometer is accessible.





Next, you'll want to wire up the toggle on/off switch. A basic switch is just spliced inline with the positive wire, and it either allows current to flow, or it doesn't. Make sure to use a switch that you're not going to accidentally bump and turn off while you're driving. Use correct soldering procedure here to attach color-coordinated wires to the switch, including attaching an end of the terminal you're soldering to a metal soldering stand so that the heat can flow. Don't leave the soldering iron on any terminal for too long, and take your time. If you get the switch too hot, you risk melting the internals, which then compromises the function and safety of the switch. After you solder the appropriate color wires to this switch, use some heat shrink tubing around the terminals so it can't accidentally ground itself. Put a 15 amp fuse inline with the constant +12v wire with any switch that you use (I'll repeat this again in the step when you run a wire from your battery). If you decided to use a Bulgin switch, they're only rated for 5 amps, so use the appropriate fuse, and be EXTRA careful during the soldering process.





If you're using LEDs, use T-taps that run from the switched positive wire from your toggle switch to to send power to the LED inputs. The polarity in some LEDs do matter, so check the positive and negative wires when you connect it. If you built the pulse module, I'm going to assume you're proficient with circuit design, so wire that up appropriately. On an LED like this, the base is positive and the metal cylinder is negative:

[asiansensation78]

Now here comes the fun part. Disconnect your battery and find where you want to mount your switches and start tearing your car apart. The shifter bezel is just clipped in so disconnect the cigarette lighter and pull that off. There are 2 bolts behind the shifter bezel, and 2 more on the bottom of your center armrest console that holds the entire center console in place. To take off your center console, take off these 4 bolts, and remove the bracket on your e-brake assembly that prevents it from lifting all the way up (little bolt on driver's side). After the bracket is off, you can pull a metal lever on the e-brake assembly and it will come up 90 degrees without actually engaging the e-brake. Now disconnect all the wires that go to it and pull it straight up from the rear.

The bezel that goes under the steering column will need to come off as well to allow you access to the ignition harness. There are 2 bolts that hold in the plastic plate, then 2 more that hold in the metal plate. If you need to, take off the metal bar hat runs across the bottom of the steering column.

Mount your switches by drilling into the appropriate places (carefully), and connecting everything. If you don't have room under the center console, dremel out the appropriate support brackets carefully. Crimp some disconnects on the 3 wire ends that you'll plug into the car (constant power, switched power, ground).



Make sure all of your switches and crimp connections are secure and won't vibrate loose:







I'm going to give you directions on how to disable your steering wheel lock and get past your PATS system the easy way. Whether you choose to wire in a servo that can turn the steering wheel lock back on via rotating the ignition cylinder, or disable it altogether, is up to you. You can also get past PATS by wiring in a PKALL module to your alarm system. There are quite a different number of ways to add security to this system, I wired in relays into my alarm system that goes to the PATS system, ignition harness, and starter relay which are all activated and deactivated with my keyless entry remote. I also have a hidden master kill switch in my car for added peace of mind. By hidden, I actually mean HIDDEN. Don't put it within arm's reach from your driving position. Safi gives a simple and effective method for wiring a kill switch to the PATS module in post #12.

Take off the plastic piece that you insert your key in (it just clips in). Take off the cover that goes under your steering column behind your steering wheel. Take off the PATS module, it's just a ring that goes around your key cylinder, be careful with the wires as they are thin. Insert your key into the key cylinder and turn it to the ON position. Use a pen or something with a point to push the little button under the key cylinder, and pull the entire key cylinder straight out. Your car should still be on at this point. Turn it off with by inserting a flathead into the ignition cylinder and rotating it to the OFF position just before the mechanical steering wheel lock engages. Take your key out of the ignition cylinder and zip tie it to the PATS module. Zip tie everything behind the dash.



Run a wire from the positive terminal of the battery into your car with 16 gauge wire (make sure you never ground this wire, as shorting out your battery is bad... mmkay?). Splice tap this wire for the following connections and add in a 15 amp fuse to each of them:
-Relay chain input terminal 30
-Ignition on/off switch constant +12v
-Start button constant +12v

Go to your chain of relays, and run the wire from pin 86 to the switched output wire on your ignition on/off switch. Ground pin 85 from the relay chain, as well as any other grounds you have from your ignition switches or LEDs.

In the ignition harness, locate the terminals that I've circled in blue, trace the wires out, and take note of the colors (this harness is not from a Mustang, but ours is almost exactly the same):



It would be a good idea to check the individual wires for power before you go about this step, as wire colors and positions can be different in your car. I've already found that Safi's car and my car have different wire colors. V6 Mustang wires are different, as well as Mustangs with different factory audio systems.

Using T-taps (that way it's easy to remove the system if you so choose to do), run the individual switched output wires from the relays (pin 87) to them. One output wire for each terminal. Here are the wire colors in my car, you can also add in an additional switch for the accessories as I did, or just have 1 switch controlling all of them:



Run the switched output wire from your start button to the white/pink strip wire. This is your starter motor wire. Your car has an onboard relay for this so we won't be using another one.

If you want one or all of the LEDs to turn off when you turn on your headlights, wire in a normally closed relay to your LED switched +12v wire, and the relay trigger wire to the large gray wire in the headlight control unit behind your headlight knob (you'll have to take out your gauge cluster to do this). Instructions can be found here:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...es-how-to.html

Wire in some kind of security measure so random people can't just jump into your car and take it. Everyone's alarm system is different so be creative with it (starter kill relay from alarm, aux ignition kill output, etc.).

Now, check your wiring to make sure everything is connected correctly:
-battery to relay input, ignition switch input, start button input
-start button output to white/pink wire in ignition harness
-ignition switch to pin 86 of relay chain
-individual relay pin 87 outputs to ignition harness wires
-all grounds
-alarm system


Take a break, and double check again. I can't stress how important it is that all of your wires are connected correctly and securely. You don't want to fry anything or risk your car turning off when you're driving.

If everything looks good, clean up extra wire, and put some plastic wire loom around the wires that you ran:



Zip tie all the relays and wires securely, and put your car back together. Enjoy your new keyless ignition system!

[TheUNZippee!]

Rawsome.

[asiansensation78]

I got kinda tired towards the end of this long-winded post, so if I made any mistakes or left out any steps, PLEASE PLEASE tell me so that I can correct it

[Badonkadonk]

Not going to lie, that's pretty cool

[asiansensation78]

Can a mod add this to the how-to center?

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ow-center.html

[Shaun03GT]

Reps man, thats awesome came out really clean

[mell0]

very nice. that's pretty freaking sweet compared to mine, but then agsin i only needed to splice 1 wire. LOL

[Torrito]

that's pretty bad ass

[TheUNZippee!]

Added

[bandity2k00]

Dang your nice with it man!

[Safi]

Originally Posted by asiansensation78 I'm going to give you directions on how to disable your steering wheel lock and get past your PATS system the easy way. Whether you choose to wire in a servo that can turn the steering wheel lock back on via rotating the ignition cylinder, or disable it altogether, is up to you. You can also get past PATS by wiring in a PKALL module to your alarm system. Take off the plastic piece that you insert your key in (it just clips in). Take off the cover that goes under your steering column behind your steering wheel. Take off the PATS module, it's just a ring that goes around your key cylinder, be careful with the wires as they are thin. Insert your key into the key cylinder and turn it to the ON position. Use a pen or something with a point to push the little button under the key cylinder, and pull the entire key cylinder straight out. Your car should still be on at this point. Turn it off with by inserting a flathead into the ignition cylinder and rotating it to the OFF position just before the mechanical steering wheel lock engages. Take your key out of the ignition cylinder and zip tie it to the PATS module. Zip tie everything behind the dash.

A tip for you guys who want to do this. If you're worried about security and coming up with some sort of killswitch to make sure no one can get in your car and just start it up by pressing buttons, utilizing the PATS system is a great way to do so. It's much better since you don't have to deal setting up some complex system or anything like that...just using a good security option thats already been implemented by ford

Mount your key to the PATS module (using zip tie or tape...if you use tape, do NOT use aluminum tape lol), cut the red wire and put a switch between. Hide this switch anywhere you want and you're set. When the switch is closed the car recognizes the key is there and lets you start, if the switch is open the PATS module doesn't detect a key and won't allow you to start

[Ryguy33]

coolest thing ever!

[weems]

That's fucking awesome, but I don't think I could do it, I suck with wires.

[CoreyHM1]

Thats badass! Nice work!

[jonwrong]

Truly awesome work. I had a two-way alarm in my previous car and the shop wouldn't wire up the remote start on a manual. It took some time on my part, but I finally mastered it. I would be down for doing this is my car, but I don't want to run a fancy alarm. Based on other posts, it looks like it would be easy to have it so the stock system doesn't allow the car to start.

[Ryguy33]

where did u get your anti vandal buttons from?

[Safi]

Vandal Resistant Illuminated Momentary Switch RED Ring LED: CrazyPC Computers

[Ryguy33]

Originally Posted by Safi Vandal Resistant Illuminated Momentary Switch RED Ring LED: CrazyPC Computers

awsome! reps!

[Mr Switchez]

Thats just too cool. Definitely a must have.