Sorry, Help Installing X Pipe
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Old March 25th, 2007, 11:53 PM   #1
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Sorry, Help Installing X Pipe


I know this is a noob thing to ask and I looked back in the archives to try to find someone else asking recently but couldn't find it. Then I did a search and couldn't find anyone addressing my problem, so I'm sorry in advance. I went to put my new X pipe on today (for the 3rd time. Every time I tried I couldn't get the passenger side bolts off and had to quit because it was dark, take my deep well socket to work, grind it down, try again the next week) and I finally got the stock one off, and began putting the new X on. The directions said I needed to remove the two studs on the driver side manifold and replace them with some bolts, I ignored this direction and tried to bolt the new head pipe on using the existing studs, this didn't work. It leaks really bad. How do I get the studs out of the manifold? My mom's boyfriend's friend (yes, long association) works at a shop and was absolutely useless when I went to ask him. He told me "well, they're all different I can't say, you may have to torch them out blah blah blah" and I asked if he could just get the two studs out and he said he could and I asked how much it would cost and he told me "oh, well I don't know how long it will take, I mean it's $60 an hour." Needless to say, I just walked away thinking he was an ass. So, what should I do? Again, sorry for asking about installing an X Pipe
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Old March 26th, 2007, 01:20 AM   #2
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Alternatively, is there any way I can make the ones that are already on there work?
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NASA uses mobil 1... i use mobil 1... they send the shit to space.
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Old March 26th, 2007, 01:27 AM   #3
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lol dude no need to keep apologizing thats what this board is here for.. i can't answer your question but im sure whoever does will be more than happy to help you out.. and it's not a noob question
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Old March 26th, 2007, 01:34 AM   #4
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It just so happens I have my stock manifolds with studs sitting right here with me. So, I have 2 things you can try...

1. Tread one of the nuts half way up one stud, thread the scond nut up the same stud till it touches the other nut.

Using wrenches, tighten the nuts together, ( losen the top nut and tighten the bottom one )

Then use a wrench on the top nut to losen the stud. ( the nuts lock eachother in place to turn the stud )

2. The studs have a flattened tip on them. If you have a good pair of vise grips you can grab on to the end and turn them. I would use the 2 nuts though...

Also, don't forget to soak them with WD-40 and let it sit for at least a couple hours before you begin.

Hope this helps, doc
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Old March 27th, 2007, 06:27 PM   #5
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let me know if that worked out for ya man.
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Old March 27th, 2007, 06:31 PM   #6
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i just ground the shoulders off the stock studs so the pipe can pull on the manifold for a leak proof seal.
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Old March 27th, 2007, 10:45 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by DrHolliday
let me know if that worked out for ya man.
I will, I don't have time until friday to try.
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Old March 28th, 2007, 12:52 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by ltsmash1200
Originally Posted by DrHolliday
let me know if that worked out for ya man.
I will, I don't have time until friday to try.

what x pipe are you trying to install on this car? my bassani was cake i didnt have to replace anything. well i take that back since it is such a tight fit on the drivers side of the exhaust manifold i had to replace a nut or two, but mine was not as much trouble as yours has turned out to be.
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Old March 28th, 2007, 09:57 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by 01whitecobra
Originally Posted by ltsmash1200
Originally Posted by DrHolliday
let me know if that worked out for ya man.
I will, I don't have time until friday to try.

what x pipe are you trying to install on this car? my bassani was cake i didnt have to replace anything. well i take that back since it is such a tight fit on the drivers side of the exhaust manifold i had to replace a nut or two, but mine was not as much trouble as yours has turned out to be.
It's an SLP. It wasn't necessarily the biggest problem, getting the stock H off was where I had most of the issues. I had to replace 2 O2 sensors and it took forever to get the thing off. Once I did, the SLP went on easy, minus the whole enormous leak on the drivers side because I need to replace the studs.
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Old March 31st, 2007, 02:23 PM   #10
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So I soaked the studs in PB Blaster for a couple of hours, then did the thing with the two bolts and they came right out, without any problems. Thanks for the advice.
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Old March 31st, 2007, 03:00 PM   #11
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Glad it worked out for ya man, no leaks now?
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Old April 1st, 2007, 01:55 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by DrHolliday
Glad it worked out for ya man, no leaks now?
Nope, don't think so. Although, my CEL is still on. I have to borrow my friend's code checker to see what the problem is. I had to replace 2 of the 02 sensors and I got the Bosch ones from Autozone, I've read some people saying they suck, so I hope that's all it is.
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Old April 1st, 2007, 02:42 AM   #13
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if they're brand new bosch sensors.. they should be working okay. did you clear the code and complete a drive cycle after installing the new ones?

if you didn't.. disconnect the neg. battery terminal for a few min and turn on the dome light to drain all the power. then connect it back and it should be cleared, if it doesn't come back on after several miles of driving you're good to go. they normally don't clear by themselves
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Old April 3rd, 2007, 11:11 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Invictus
if they're brand new bosch sensors.. they should be working okay. did you clear the code and complete a drive cycle after installing the new ones?

if you didn't.. disconnect the neg. battery terminal for a few min and turn on the dome light to drain all the power. then connect it back and it should be cleared, if it doesn't come back on after several miles of driving you're good to go. they normally don't clear by themselves
Tried that, it still came on.
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