[blackmage]

Im using the 96-98 cobra intake, with 96-98 cobra bracket and cables. I did find something useful though, if you relocate your battery to the trunk, you can mount the cruise control motor where the battery was and use the stock GT cruise cable. (You will have to extend the harness for the cruise module, but shouldnt be a big deal if you are already swapping motors )

[LGHTNG02GT]

Originally Posted by blackmage Im using the 96-98 cobra intake, with 96-98 cobra bracket and cables. I did find something useful though, if you relocate your battery to the trunk, you can mount the cruise control motor where the battery was and use the stock GT cruise cable. (You will have to extend the harness for the cruise module, but shouldnt be a big deal if you are already swapping motors )

this is a good tip! this is something i believe i will do when i relocate my battery. one less PITA cable to worry about tracking down. depending how much i can geta newer 4v throttle cable for, i may try adapting one of those to work with the 96-98 cobra intake/tb

[cruizer]

Originally Posted by LGHTNG02GT ^Refresh my memory... you used the lincoln intrake manifold for your swap ??? i personally believe a mach 1, termi or 99/01 cobra coable could be made to work regardless of which manifold you use. the mounting brackets would be the only hold-up that i see. i want to try out a mcah 1 cable myself jsut to see what happens.

yeah, I used the stock lincoln intake manifold. Ported it a bit to the gaskets. I can't quite decide if I want to do the 98 cobra intake manifold or swap over to C head/intake stuff so I didn't want to invest the money till I knew for sure. Plus, I'm kinda a little curious to see how a mildly ported lincoln manifold will do. I did spend like 16 hours porting it ha ha

[littledude]

I` m stuck and need to pick everybodies brains for a few minutes.
03 gt with 98 mark 8.
The motor started and ran for about 10 minutes then I shut it off.
I wired in the dis tach driver & rpm switch for the imrc`s.

I tried to start the car & it would not start. The exhaust sounds like it wants to but is retarded way too much, and the theft light blinks slow after turning off the key.

Bought a custom tune and tried again. Doing the same thing except the theft light blinked fast this time.

They sent me a new tune to get around the PATS this time.

Same thing, except the theft light blinks slow again.

Sprayed starter fluid in the intake & it backfired through the intake & blew the big hose off of the vacuum port on the back of the intake. Unhooked the dis tach driver, window switch, & vacuum lines. Still won`t start, still flashes theft light slow after turning off the key.

Anybody have any ideas what is wrong, how to check, and how to fix the problem ? Bad key ? Fried the computer ?

[Tang Stang]

What wire did you splice into for the tach driver?

[littledude]

The tach driver is on the big red wire for the cop`s. The rpm switch is on a small red wire that turned out to be for a sensor.

I had my buddy check today and the car is in theft mode. Ford said they can wipe the computer clean and reprogram it to stock (it was not factory stock when i got it) so they can check the key and transponder. Then I can put the custom tune back on it and it should work. SCT said if it causes a problem loading the stock tune to my programmer, because of the wrong stock tune already on there, they can go remote on my computer and fix that without sending it in. couple of hundred bucks and a week or two getting it scheduled in to the dealer and everything should be fine.

If anybody knows of a quick fix without going to the dealer I will try that first.

Any solutions ?

My programmer is showing a DTC P0193- fuel rail pressure too high

[littledude]

What do I do about high rail fuel pressure (p0193) ? I used the mark 8 fuel rail with the return line braised shut. I just remembered that I unhooked the vacuum lines to the fuel rail and the elec plug when the (not) starting problem first happened. I have not connected them and retried it yet. I also used a starter button under the hood to spin it over when I started it upon installation. Would any of that have set off the PATS ? I have tried everything I have read on resetting the PATS and nothing has worked so far.

[Tang Stang]

Originally Posted by littledude Would any of that have set off the PATS ? I have tried everything I have read on resetting the PATS and nothing has worked so far.

If anything would have set it off, I'd bank on this being the culprit:

Originally Posted by littledude I also used a starter button under the hood to spin it over when I started it upon installation.

[littledude]

After half a dozen calls and several hours on the phone & computer with SCT, LMR, & BBR, we found several problems.

1: The remote starter set off the PATS. That is a definite no-no.

2: It set a code B1213-less than 2 keys programmed for the car. I only have one key.

3: The tune was wrong, and it was not turning off the PATS as it was supposed to. That is what happens when you have to deal with a middle man company and are not able to deal with the tuner directly before they write the tune. I am waiting for the third tune to arrive in my inbox so I can try that one. Now that they have all of the correct information for the tune, this one should do the trick.

[Tang Stang]

Glad you got it figured out.

[littledude]

Third custom tune-- same results. The new tune is still not turning off the PATS system. The only difference I can see is that the theft light stops flashing rapidly when I return it to stock, but it flashes slowly after turning off the key (normal). When I load the custom tune the theft light starts flashing rapidly right away and the car will not start. The last two tunes were written to turn off the PATS system but it appears that Blow By Racing does not have that perfected yet. It looks like I am going to have to bite the bullet and shell out the big bucks to have the dealer flash the computer and reload it with a stock tune, and program new keys for it or turn off the PATS system for me.

This build has become very frustrating, time consuming, and expensive.

[WickedSnake00]

Who's doing the tuning for you?

[littledude]

Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 Who's doing the tuning for you?

I bought the tunes through "Late Model Restoration", but the tunes are actually written by "Blow By Racing".

The problem is with the PATS system being activated for having less than 2 keys programmed to the car. I got the car with a 5.4 that was locked up, and had a custom tune on it for that motor, but no programmer. The tune that is on there is not a stock tune. I dropped in a 98 Mark 8 4.6 dohc. It ran for ten minutes & I shut it off. When I tried to start it again, with a hand held starter button it set off the PATS and has not started since. They have written three custom tunes for the new motor, and the last two were supposed to turn off the PATS system, yet neither one has done the trick.

[Fraley225]

4v Mustang GT vs. Lt1 Trans Am - YouTube


my stock lincoln 4v running in my 99 mustang gt still untuned and bad tensioners but its peppy and sounds freakin awesome for an h pipe

[westcoastopp]

can i use a mark8 lower tank or do i have to have the cobra lower as well

[westcoastopp]

can i use a mark8 lower tank or do i have to have the cobra lower as well im using the upper cobra intake.

[westcoastopp]

can i use a mark8 lower tank or do i have to have the cobra lower as well

[westcoastopp]

can i use a mark8 lower tank or do i have to have the cobra lower as well im using the upper cobra

[westcoastopp]

can a mark8 lower tank be used or do i have to have the cobra lower as well im using the upper cobra intake.

[blackmage]

Originally Posted by westcoastopp can a mark8 lower tank be used or do i have to have the cobra lower as well im using the upper cobra intake.

NO. you have to have a cobra upper and lower, or mark viii upper and lower.