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Old December 15th, 2010, 05:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Willy Mo View Post
did you degree the cams? it is not needed but with a build like yours I would hope you did.
no i have never degreed the cams. i honestly do not know if the machine shop degreed them or not.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 05:47 PM   #22
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I dont think your stock 19LB injectors will hold for a powerful tune with what you have done to the motor (heads AND cams)
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Old December 15th, 2010, 05:53 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by napwrd2vgt03 View Post
no i have never degreed the cams. i honestly do not know if the machine shop degreed them or not.
wow ok, well you may want to research degreeing cams.

Originally Posted by BaznastyDave View Post
I dont think your stock 19LB injectors will hold for a powerful tune with what you have done to the motor (heads AND cams)
agreed
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:27 PM   #24
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i thought the 19lbs were suppose to be good to almost 350-360rwhp??
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:31 PM   #25
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you should let your motor sit at before you drive it for 20 min and dump the oil out, and change the filter when you breake in new motors. you never know how clean preped your motor was when it was put together plus your motor is going to shed for a little bit and it does not take a whole lot of crap in the oil pump to damage it. i let my car run for 20 min first start, then swap oil/filter, after that i drive it easy 3000 and under for 50 miles and dump the oil/filter again, then again 500 miles later.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:40 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
you should let your motor sit at before you drive it for 20 min and dump the oil out, and change the filter when you breake in new motors. you never know how clean preped your motor was when it was put together plus your motor is going to shed for a little bit and it does not take a whole lot of crap in the oil pump to damage it. i let my car run for 20 min first start, then swap oil/filter, after that i drive it easy 3000 and under for 50 miles and dump the oil/filter again, then again 500 miles later.
dang man that gets expensive. did you just rinse out your filter or something or just replace with a new one each time.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:41 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Willy Mo View Post
wow ok, well you may want to research degreeing cams.



agreed
i will see what i can find out. what does degreeing the cams consist of and if there is no clearance issues why degree them? just curious. never done it or researched that part of it because i was told i didnt have to degree them when i bought them.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:43 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by napwrd2vgt03 View Post
i thought the 19lbs were suppose to be good to almost 350-360rwhp??
I think MAX "safe" Duty cycle on them is about 85-90%. At that % they can hold about 290-300 WHP
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:46 PM   #29
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Always wanted to say this....
:
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:46 PM   #30
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i have a set of 42lb injectors in the storage building. would those be to much?
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:47 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by fmxona500 View Post
Always wanted to say this....
:
i can't upload them. i could take a few on my phone and email them along with a short idle clip to someone if you wanted to put them up for me.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:55 PM   #32
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ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:58 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by fmxona500 View Post
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
dont have internet at the house and that site is blocked at work. that is why i can not upload anything.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 07:00 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by BaznastyDave View Post
I think MAX "safe" Duty cycle on them is about 85-90%. At that % they can hold about 290-300 WHP
i wasnt expecting to get numbers much higher than 300rw out of this setup n/a. figured at the max i would probably be sitting around 315rw considering it is a blower setup.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 07:49 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by napwrd2vgt03 View Post
dang man that gets expensive. did you just rinse out your filter or something or just replace with a new one each time.
it is expensive but it cost more if you dont go threw the proper steps and ruin the motor if something gets in the oil pump and damages it and then breaks your motor. about the whole cam degree part, its important to degree cams in since the oem cam sprockets fall in a tolerance of 4 degrees +- which total can be up to 8 degrees off from bank to bank. if you have your pistons notched you may not have issues with ptv but its just good practice to have them degreed in. if you payed some one to do the balance and timing of the motor i would expect it to be done.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 07:55 PM   #36
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oh ok well that makes since. yeah i have been going by how the builder told me to break it in on changing the oil after the first thousand miles but from what you said that is the extreme to what he told me lol.
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Old December 15th, 2010, 08:00 PM   #37
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like i said oil changes are cheap compaired to a broken motor. you can break it in how you feel but if you have ever seen the oil pump in our car you will see how tight the gears fit in the housing so that means any bit of crap in it will mark it up and could damage it.
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Old December 16th, 2010, 08:23 AM   #38
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Yes oil changes are cheaper than a new motor lol. Can't argue that one. I believe I will change the oil at 500 instead of 1000 and change it again at a 1000 to be more on the safer side
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