Some engine carnage pictures for you guys
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Old December 20th, 2010, 06:44 PM   #1
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Some engine carnage pictures for you guys


Here's what I found when I went and looked at the engine that came out of my car today. I was not going to spend any time tearing it down, so I took pics of the obvious carnage.

1st is the culprit, the bent rod as it sits, still in the block:



2nd is a shot of the inside of the intake port. Hmmmmm. The valve guide isn't supposed to be like that...



And finally, a picture of the largest piece of piston I could find. I'm going to throw it in the parts cleaner, and it's going to turn into a paperweight at work:



And she's back at home, with the new shoes on now. Running good. I know, she's dirty, but I'll clean her up tomorrow and take some better daytime pictures.


Last edited by Bullitt5339; December 20th, 2010 at 06:58 PM.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 07:14 PM   #2
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Ouch.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:10 PM   #3
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This was an N/A engine, or with power adder?

What did you replace the motor with (details)?
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:12 PM   #4
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how did this happen?
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:12 PM   #5
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It was a nitrous engine (125 shot) that had a defective bottle gauge, so it was sprayed at almost 1200psi but was tuned for 950psi. This happened on the dyno, so I knew exactly what was going on, and it popped at around 3600-3800rpm, and was making 360rwhp/538rwtq at that rpm when it popped..... oops As soon as we saw those numbers, we started troubleshooting what the problem was, and found the defective gauge.

The engine was replaced with a stock 03 Explorer aluminum longblock.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:14 PM   #6
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ewww.. i hate to see that. but glad everything is all back together.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:15 PM   #7
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damn dude, that piston piece is smaller than the largest one i could find in mine. as for the guide, time for bronze pieces
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:17 PM   #8
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Because I was crunched for time, it got a complete longblock, and those heads are trash. The combustion chamber was so freaking beat up, it would need extensive welding to be useable, and with the cost of PI heads nowadays, it wouldn't be worth having the work done.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:26 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bullitt5339 View Post
It was a nitrous engine (125 shot) that had a defective bottle gauge, so it was sprayed at almost 1200psi but was tuned for 950psi. This happened on the dyno, so I knew exactly what was going on, and it popped at around 3600-3800rpm, and was making 360rwhp/538rwtq at that rpm when it popped..... oops As soon as we saw those numbers, we started troubleshooting what the problem was, and found the defective gauge.

The engine was replaced with a stock 03 Explorer aluminum longblock.
damnn.. so for a future nitrous guy, any tips other than b sure ur presure gauge works obviously
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:28 PM   #10
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its not that hard to repair the heads if you got a place that can tig good. i was able to shave my head down .030 to get rid of most of the damage.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:29 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG View Post
its not that hard to repair the heads if you got a place that can tig good. i was able to shave my head down .030 to get rid of most of the damage.
I find pairs of PI heads for $100 or less all the time, in fact I have a spare set in my storage shed right now that I picked up for $40 with no cams in them. Could the TIG welding be done for cheaper than $100ish?
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:32 PM   #12
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depends. i get mine done for free
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:33 PM   #13
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Yeah, I don't have that hookup yet, unfortunately.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:35 PM   #14
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that is damn cheap to get heads tho.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:36 PM   #15
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The market is flooded with them around here. The guy I got these from just kept going down and down on the price, and when he got to $40, I bought them just to have a spare set.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 08:39 PM   #16
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Damn, that looks serious.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 10:34 PM   #17
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damn that sucks but at least its fixed now
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Old December 20th, 2010, 10:40 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Pittbull View Post
damnn.. so for a future nitrous guy, any tips other than b sure ur presure gauge works obviously
To really be safe you need a regular mechanical gauge on the bottle and an Electric gauge in the car visible at all time's and have the sensor for the gauge as close to the solenoid as possible. And always check both gauges before you hose it down.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:07 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by BaznastyDave View Post
To really be safe you need a regular mechanical gauge on the bottle and an Electric gauge in the car visible at all time's and have the sensor for the gauge as close to the solenoid as possible. And always check both gauges before you hose it down.
good infoo
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 08:46 PM   #20
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My carnage was better
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