[SadleUp]

So I may have a bad wrist pin...if this is the case, is it POSSIBLE to fix just this one without pulling the engine? I just want it fixed so I can get rid of the darn thing..

[stal94gt]

bad wrist pin... you have to drop the pan to get to it so you have pull the pan off and for that you have to drop the k member out or pull the motor. you also have to pull the head off to get it out and to re-install the piston. i would pull the motor since it makes it alot easier and it only takes a few hours to get it out

[SadleUp]

Problem is i dont have the stuff to pull it out and I cant take it up to the hobby shop because the head is already off

[stal94gt]

if you have the head off then i would drop the k member and do it that way

[SadleUp]

This should be fun, considering I've never done this before

[stal94gt]

place the jack under your trans and the k member is not to hard of a removal, takes alittle time but you will get it

[SadleUp]

not worried about the k member, worried about the piston

[SadleUp]

with this being my first time, how hard is this going to be for me? how much could i potentially mess up?

[Bullitt5339]

It's going to suck, especially trying to do it in the car. Have the car towed to the craft shop (I loved my time in the Army at Hurlburt Field, BTW), and do it there with the right tools and support. Pull the engine out, and do it. It'll be cheaper in the long run, a lot less stress and work, and the odds of the final results being positive are better.

[1_nice_03_gt]

wats a wrist pin?

[Bullitt5339]

The piece that holds the piston on the connecting rod.

[stal94gt]

hey im stationed at eglin i could give you a hand if you dont know what your doing.

[DickH]

I have heard that you could change the rods without taking the heads off, you might be able to do it all from under the car. It has to be a pain in the ass to do it that way though. I think you should tear the motor down, im sure if you have a bad wrist pin you have other problems.

[stal94gt]

installing pistons from the bottom sounds like a pain, i have never done it but it may work, i guess it depends on the block and if you can get the ring compresser to fit. like i said i have never done it that way but maybe someone has

[SadleUp]

Originally Posted by stal94gt hey im stationed at eglin i could give you a hand if you dont know what your doing.

I got the beer! haha...I really don't know what i need, or have to do to be honest.

[zigbigadoru]

i think it may be a little easier on our ohc motors because there isnt as much garbage on the bottom of the motor.

youre going to need to take that piston to a machine shop and have them press it out. shouldnt have problems with the other ones unless theres something physically wrong with them already.

[stal94gt]

its not hard to do its just what may be wrong with the piston or the rod that may make it cost a little more. i know rpm has tons of modular parts they would sell for cheap. also i could all xxx and see if brad can give me an old set. i was up there today and i saw he had a mustang tore apart due to destroyed piston.

[stal94gt]

honestly i dont see it being a bad wrist pin, it is much stronger than the piston and connecting rod its self. i imagine its the piston being eyed out/damaged or the rod being eyed out or damaged.

[SadleUp]

Symptoms: started off with a ticking in between 2000-3000 rpms. Now it has progressed to a full time ticking (probably because i drove the dog shit out of it for awhile just to make it blow and force me to rebuild). I have absolutely no loss in power. I unplugged cylinder #4 and the sound got louder and clunkier. I took it into ford and the mechanic said it was upper valvetrain. I put a scope on it myself and heard it at its loudest on the oilpan. He claims the sound was just traveling. He also did a compression check and it was fine. I've changed the oil multiple times and have found no metal shavings. I took the heads off and everything looked great except i had some scoring in #3 and #4 above where the valve would normally sit and there was alot of carbon build up on top of the valve (no bent valves or cracked valve guides). Oh, and I also did an oil change with some really thick oil (60w I believe) to see if it made a difference, and it silenced it for maybe 100 miles.

[stal94gt]

man it sounds more like a lifter. all your symptoms leads me to think they are bad