Boost or no Boost??
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 10:18 AM   #1
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Boost or no Boost??


Ok guys here is the problem I am trying to figure out. I am wanting to buy one of my best friends d1 procharger from him and putting it on my car. As a few of you know I just resently had a new motor built for my car. I was talking to the builder yesterday asking him how much boost he thought I would be able to run and he said the motor was not built for boost. I automatically yelled through the phone WTF????!!!!! Well I drove down to his shop yesterday and spoke with him in person. I don't know where he came up with the number but he thought the compression ratio of my motor 11.0-1 but when i told him my pistons were 18cc dished pistons and a combustion chamber of 44cc in my heads The compression ratio of my block is 9.1-1. The motor itself consist of manley 18cc dished pistons, manley ibeam rods, and a cast steel 8 bolt crank. I have been told that the top ring gap and 2nd ring gap determines how much boost you can run. Those two numbers are .022 and .020. So here is my question for the guys who know more about this than me. How much boost and power can I safely hit this motor with???
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 10:25 AM   #2
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None.


No I'm just kidding I honestly don't know. But how would a built motor not be able to respond to any boost? Good luck finding the answer breh!
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 10:29 AM   #3
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Should hold like 600 if you have supporting mods to get there and not just all boost
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 11:24 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by bandity2k00 View Post
Should hold like 600 if you have supporting mods to get there and not just all boost
when you say supporting mods i am guessing you are talking about ported heads, blower cams, long tube headers, full exaust, the right plenum and throttle body and the proper fuel system right. if thats the case then yes i will have all the supporting mods
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 11:33 AM   #5
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that is the same ring gap i run with total seal moly rings and i run 18# of boost with manley 18 cc pistons
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 11:33 AM   #6
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that is the same ring gap i run with total seal moly rings and i run 18# of boost with manley 18 cc pistons. wait never mind my top ring is 24 bottom is 22. that is a little tight for boost but you will be ok.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 11:44 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
that is the same ring gap i run with total seal moly rings and i run 18# of boost with manley 18 cc pistons. wait never mind my top ring is 24 bottom is 22. that is a little tight for boost but you will be ok.
stal do you think i would be ok for about 15lbs of boost? all i want to hit is 500-550rwhp.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 11:53 AM   #8
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Top Stainless Ring on mine is 20 bottom moly ring is 18...

Edit: If he built the motor, how did he not know CR?
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 11:53 AM   #9
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yeah man, that will be fine for sure!
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 11:54 AM   #10
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mine is 20/22 on ring gap.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 11:59 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by napwrd2vgt03 View Post
stal do you think i would be ok for about 15lbs of boost? all i want to hit is 500-550rwhp.
yes you will be fine. hell i would push 18-20# threw that d1sc
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:11 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Blown284 View Post
Top Stainless Ring on mine is 20 bottom moly ring is 18...

Edit: If he built the motor, how did he not know CR?
he is use to gm motor due to thats what he primarily builds and use to their calculations. so with that being said until he punched it into the computer by their calculations i guess it was a higher compression ratio.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:12 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
yes you will be fine. hell i would push 18-20# threw that d1sc
damn lol. really wasnt wanting to hear that lol. with you saying that makes me want to go back to my original goal of 600-650 lol
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:19 PM   #14
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So you gonna put 20 psi through it?
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:31 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by napwrd2vgt03 View Post
damn lol. really wasnt wanting to hear that lol. with you saying that makes me want to go back to my original goal of 600-650 lol
no one ever sticks to the original plan. i originaly was happy with stock motor sc combo, when that motor let go and i built a new one my goal was 500 rwhp, and that got old so now im shooting for 600. not sure if it ever ends but its nice to have parts that will give you plenty of head room for extra hp.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:31 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Blown284 View Post


18cc dish and 44cc combustion chambers would be the same in any car as far as I know...correct me if I'm wrong someone, but I don't think the calculations change.
man i wish i knew. i haven't gotten that deep in the knowledge of the motors yet. just relayed what was told to me.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by napwrd2vgt03 View Post
man i wish i knew. i haven't gotten that deep in the knowledge of the motors yet. just relayed what was told to me.
There other variables too though, I wouldn't worry sounds like you're gonna have a pretty sturdy motor.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:39 PM   #18
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your motor will hold a lot of hp but the thing your going to have to watch out for on your motor is the strength of the I beams you used, i imagine its the mmr 600 rotating assembly which the rods are good to 600-700 pushing it. the cast crank does not have a history of braking but i will say the weakness of cast vs forged steel cranks is the ability to flex. cast cranks dont do well with real high rpm's or extream launches. hard launches is typicaly the failing point of a cast crank but the modular cast crank is real strong and will handle some serous launches so i would not really worry a whole lot about that. things to consider with higher boost is more in the top end. you will want to run a high load valve spring, along with bronze guides.
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 12:47 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by napwrd2vgt03 View Post
damn lol. really wasnt wanting to hear that lol. with you saying that makes me want to go back to my original goal of 600-650 lol
Watch the ibeams. Should be good at 600 though
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Old December 22nd, 2010, 01:58 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
your motor will hold a lot of hp but the thing your going to have to watch out for on your motor is the strength of the I beams you used, i imagine its the mmr 600 rotating assembly which the rods are good to 600-700 pushing it. the cast crank does not have a history of braking but i will say the weakness of cast vs forged steel cranks is the ability to flex. cast cranks dont do well with real high rpm's or extream launches. hard launches is typicaly the failing point of a cast crank but the modular cast crank is real strong and will handle some serous launches so i would not really worry a whole lot about that. things to consider with higher boost is more in the top end. you will want to run a high load valve spring, along with bronze guides.
the heads are not a worry. they have the best of everything in them. i bought them from a friend who was building a 302 stroker motor and was shooting for over 700 rwhp. as far as the rest of the motor, i knew the limitations of the rotating assembly i just got a little scared when he put doubt into my head on how much boost i could run. but from the sounds of it i should be able to run the amount of boost i need to to give me 550rwhp.
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