[beatdown]

Decided to get the Vortech V1 Si-trim tuner kit with an intercooler from CX racing.

cxracing.com: BOV + 31x12x3 inch Universal Intercooler + 3" Turbo Piping Kit For MUSTANG Celica

Issue 1- I think the air-air charger from Vortech would prolly be better but my budget disagrees. For the time being I'm only shooting for around 400RWHP..mabye a few less. It supports 600-800 HP so I'd think it'd work for what I want.. I'm wondering, would the air-liquid intercooler drop the the temp enough to keep me safe from possible detanation? Keeping in mind that this is my summer daily driver so I would imagine it could get real hot, real quick. What you guys think?

Issue 2- The kit comes with 6-8 psi with the 3.60 pulley if I remember right. But if I'm running that intercooler won't the boost level automatically drop since their is more volume to fill?? So would I need to get a smaller pulley to increase the boost back up to 8psi or would the lower boost of like 5psi be equivalent to the 8psi w/o a intercooler since the air is cooler and condensed??? Or can I run more boost since it is intercooled? REALLY got myself confused on this issue of how the boost changes/effects power with intercooler. Help please!

[40thAnnivGT]

New Mustang CXRacing INTERCOOLER KIT Turbo Supercharger - eBay (item 330505117614 end time Feb-03-11 17:26:12 PST)
That's the one I have on my V1 S-trim setup. Fit with no issues except you have to drill a 3.5" hole in your fenderwell (engine bay) so the one S shaped pipe and fit through. With a 3.33" pulley on mine, it would only make ~6lbs of boost per what was told to my tuner from Vortech themselves. I'd recommend a 3.12, that should be around 10lbs. I had a 2.87" on mine with this intercooler and AFM Powerpipe, made 13lbs, 411rwhp, and only 14* of total timing in it....then it blew up LOL.
You would also have to make a hole/flange welded to put a BOV or BPV of your choice on.

[blownstang]

Great setup! Many guys run it. I have a 3" cxracing intercooler waiting to go on. The Si is an awesome blower. I only have a V1 S trim. You should loose 2-3psi through the intercooler so you will want to go with a 3.33 pulley and powerpipe with the Si. You'll get 10psi this way. You can get a cxracing kit for a Mustang off of ebay for around $280 shipped. CXRacing INTERCOOLER KIT Mustang Turbo Supercharger New - eBay (item 330290997995 end time Feb-18-11 22:36:15 PST)

Wit the intercooler you need to decide if you want to run a draw thru maf like the non-intercooled Vortech comes with or convert to a blow thru maf.

[GotMuscle]

With any FMIC you can expect to lose about 1-2 PSI boost but will not see a decrease in power. Due to the fact you are shooting for 400 ish rwhp you will be pushing the limits of the stock internals on 2v motors. IIRC they are rated for max of about 450 so overall useage of the motor will be about 85-90% so it will handle it but it would be a good idea to upgrade internals too.

GL with the setup

[blownstang]

Originally Posted by 40thAnnivGT New Mustang CXRacing INTERCOOLER KIT Turbo Supercharger - eBay (item 330505117614 end time Feb-03-11 17:26:12 PST) That's the one I have on my V1 S-trim setup. Fit with no issues except you have to drill a 3.5" hole in your fenderwell (engine bay) so the one S shaped pipe and fit through. With a 3.33" pulley on mine, it would only make ~6lbs of boost per what was told to my tuner from Vortech themselves. I'd recommend a 3.12, that should be around 10lbs. I had a 2.87" on mine with this intercooler and AFM Powerpipe, made 13lbs, 411rwhp, and only 14* of total timing in it....then it blew up LOL. You would also have to make a hole/flange welded to put a BOV or BPV of your choice on.

You have a V1 S like myself which is less efficient than a Si. I will be going with a 3.12 pulley with powerpipe to make 9-10psi. He will make 10psi with a 3.33 and powerpipe.

[cedsks]

Originally Posted by beatdown Decided to get the Vortech V1 Si-trim tuner kit with an intercooler from CX racing. cxracing.com: BOV + 31x12x3 inch Universal Intercooler + 3" Turbo Piping Kit For MUSTANG Celica Issue 1- I think the air-air charger from Vortech would prolly be better but my budget disagrees. For the time being I'm only shooting for around 400RWHP..mabye a few less. It supports 600-800 HP so I'd think it'd work for what I want.. I'm wondering, would the air-liquid intercooler drop the the temp enough to keep me safe from possible detanation? Keeping in mind that this is my summer daily driver so I would imagine it could get real hot, real quick. What you guys think? Issue 2- The kit comes with 6-8 psi with the 3.60 pulley if I remember right. But if I'm running that intercooler won't the boost level automatically drop since their is more volume to fill?? So would I need to get a smaller pulley to increase the boost back up to 8psi or would the lower boost of like 5psi be equivalent to the 8psi w/o a intercooler since the air is cooler and condensed??? Or can I run more boost since it is intercooled? REALLY got myself confused on this issue of how the boost changes/effects power with intercooler. Help please!

Its not the volume that makes u loose pressure, its the restriction of the pipe against the air and the effort it takes to push through the intercooler. I have a cool program that can 3D model the airflow, I should have a mustang 4.6 2v done soon. Been working on it for months, finishing up on the heads now, but it will show how u loose though bends and such.

Look up on engineering toolbox online and look up pressure drop through pipes, this will help u pick the right pully size to compensate...

[0949er]

that is a good intercooler, that is what I use.

You defiantly want to go air to air if you are expecting hot temperatures. Water can only hold so much heat before it gets hot. Then dont forget its gonna cool off... and its not gonna do that in a closed-hood hot engine-bay I promise you that haha


oh and with that intercooler you are gonna want to run a blowthorugh system, and you will need to mount your BOV on the pipe that connects your blower to the intercooler itself.

[maxgst]

I had that intercooler in my eclipse. Run great!

[beatdown]

OK so sounds like I need to get the 3.33 pulley vs the standard 3.60 that comes with the kit to compensate for the boost that will be lost through the I/C. But is the powerpipe really necessary? I'm getting everything installed by Brenspeed and they told me that 10 psi would be pushing the bottom end on my engine.. Or is 10 psi with an I/C different than 10 psi w/o an I/C? And why a blow thru MAF rather than the draw thru one that comes with the kit? What's the differnce?

[saxmanJJ]

I was at 10PSI of boost in the cold weather, when I broke a piston (stock bottom end).

I don't think an intercooler would have saved this from happening, as the air temperature was about 50 degrees and I didn't do a particularly long pull when it went.

[blownstang]

Originally Posted by beatdown OK so sounds like I need to get the 3.33 pulley vs the standard 3.60 that comes with the kit to compensate for the boost that will be lost through the I/C. But is the powerpipe really necessary? I'm getting everything installed by Brenspeed and they told me that 10 psi would be pushing the bottom end on my engine.. Or is 10 psi with an I/C different than 10 psi w/o an I/C? And why a blow thru MAF rather than the draw thru one that comes with the kit? What's the differnce?

Powerpipe isn't necessary. With a 3.33 and the intercooler and no powerpipe you'll probably see 8 psi. Powerpipe just allows you to make more boost without spinning the blower any faster which causes more heat. You can get a 3.25 pulley instead of the 3.33 to get you to 9-10psi. Most say to keep the psi at or below 10psi on a stock motor. 10psi with an intercooler will help prevent detonation because of the cooler air. Non-intercooled is stuffing hot air into the motor. A blow thru maf is placed right before the throttle body which gives exact readings of the air entering your motor. A draw thru is placed before the supercharger which is very far from the throttle body on an intercooled setup. Anything can happen when air has to travel through all that piping before it gets to the motor. A draw thru basically reads the air coming into the supercharger, not the air going into the motor. Tuners need to make adjustments for this in the tune. Many people run draw thru with an intercooler without a problem so it is really up to you. Which maf comes with the kit? I'm pretty sure Vortech does not supply mafs with their kits. It's probably a lightning 90mm maf that they are offering with the kit. If you decide to go blow thru get the PMAS HPX slot style maf. PM Trick Tuners for pricing.

[stal94gt]

i would go with the 31x12x4 ic if you plan on building a motor down the road. i just had my car tuned down with a 3.33 pulley and layed down 458 rwhp at 5500 rpm's (ran out of fuel). im not sure about the v1 si trim cause i had a v3 on my car and i belive the v1 has a diff step ratio. the only reason i like the 4 core over the 3 core is you dont have to turn the blower as hard to make the same power. this helps keep iat's down and is safer in the summer. the power pipe is a good idea cause the vortech intake sucks

[T-Lee. 30]

. Tuners need to make adjustments for this in the tune. Many people run draw thru with an intercooler without a problem so it is really up to you. Which maf comes with the kit? I'm pretty sure Vortech does not supply mafs with their kits. It's probably a lightning 90mm maf that they are offering with the kit. If you decide to go blow thru get the PMAS HPX slot style maf. PM Trick Tuners for pricing.[/QUOTE]

Is it fine to stay with the draw throug set up with an intercooler as long as your IAT sensor is separate from your maf and its mounted in between the blower outlet and throttle body?

[blownstang]

Originally Posted by Rockwell29 . Tuners need to make adjustments for this in the tune. Many people run draw thru with an intercooler without a problem so it is really up to you. Which maf comes with the kit? I'm pretty sure Vortech does not supply mafs with their kits. It's probably a lightning 90mm maf that they are offering with the kit. If you decide to go blow thru get the PMAS HPX slot style maf. PM Trick Tuners for pricing.

Is it fine to stay with the draw throug set up with an intercooler as long as your IAT sensor is separate from your maf and its mounted in between the blower outlet and throttle body?[/QUOTE]

IATs aren't the main reason people switch from draw thru to blow thru. The way your describing it is the right way of doing it on a draw thru setup. That's how my non-intercooled is setup right now. If you switch to a blow thru maf that doesn't have integrated iat readings then you will need to keep your iat sensor mounted in that same location. The HPX slot style maf has an integrated iat reading so there is no need for a separate iat. It's fine to run draw thru or blow thru. If you can get draw thru to work without an issue, which many can, then your good. Some have had issues with driveability and maf backwash from the bypass valve blowing air onto the maf. A blow thru offers a "true" reading of the amount of air entering the engine because it is placed right before the throttle body.

[T-Lee. 30]

Gotcha great details appreciate that.

[blownstang]

Here is some decent info on draw thru vs blow thru.

Blow-Thru vs Draw-Thru MAF Setups

[beatdown]

Cool guys thanks for the feed back. ..So looks like I'll go with the blow thru MAF since it'll gimme the most accurate air travel info for the cpu, which should result in a lil bit smoother running engine w/o any interference. So the 3.33 pulley w/ a powerpipe, and I/C of course would put me at bout 10 psi. Don't think I wanna risk runnin 10 psi and doin any damage on my bottom end. Thinking I could run that combo tho and have it tuned down to bout 8 psi and shoot for bout 380 RWHP..give or take. That should work out ok huh?
Plus, I'm all about making more boost and keeping a lower IAT.

[beatdown]

Ok been doing some research and the general thoughts seem to be that the aftercooler..like the one I'm lookin at can get heat soaked pretty easy in traffic and take about 10 mins of steady cruising to cool back off. Where as an air-air only takes a couple mins. The thing is there is a annual street cruise in my town where I'm stuck in bumper to bumper traffic, usually for a few hours straight. Usually takes bout 40 mins to move a block! Should I be concerned about getting heat soaked when the S/C isn't even building boost?

[blownstang]

Originally Posted by beatdown Ok been doing some research and the general thoughts seem to be that the aftercooler..like the one I'm lookin at can get heat soaked pretty easy in traffic and take about 10 mins of steady cruising to cool back off. Where as an air-air only takes a couple mins. The thing is there is a annual street cruise in my town where I'm stuck in bumper to bumper traffic, usually for a few hours straight. Usually takes bout 40 mins to move a block! Should I be concerned about getting heat soaked when the S/C isn't even building boost?

No. You only need to worry about heat soak when your foot hits the floor. Under normal driving you will not tell a difference between non-intercooled, intercooled, or aftercooled. The hotter the air the less power it will make.

[beatdown]

Ugh so Vortech's website says that if I'm running over 6psi I'll need a bypass valve from them..not sure why. I was gonna run a BOV instead, the one that came with the I/C from CX racing, so it could vent into the atmosphere. I can run that BOV can't I? And any thoughts on that particular one? And they say they recommend a cog belt drive for a heavy duty S/C like the V1. That necessary? Thought I had this setup figure out but now I'm unclear again