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#1 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 28
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How many miles before its to late!
Recently new member. I have a 99 gt w/ automatic trans. Just made it to 164,000 miles. My plans are to build a badass n/a engine, and eventually forced induction. Along with upgrades to suspension, brakes,etc.
I've learned thro other threads that i need to upgrade the internals and if I do internals, ill do cams and heads to match. It's starting to burn oil, so im wondering if now is the time I should rebuild, before it g9es to far? I also would appreciate some insight on my trans. Rebuild, upgrade( if any)? not sure what to do here. |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1998 Mustang Cobra
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 1,919
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how is it burning oil, are you getting blue smoke and when and under what conditions, or are you frequently checking your oil and its disappearing faster than it should.
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![]() " When in doubt, go flat out"- Colin McRae MM Cobra Club #76 MM Cleavage Club #14 285 CREW #8 |
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
2003 Mustang Gt
13.26@102.77
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
Posts: 532
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with that many miles shouldnt you just lean towards getting new shortblock that can hold more power? and you would need to build the bottom end for the power. i would also say work on the rear end and getting a stall
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03 Termi Wheels with 315 nt555r's, 4.10 gears, sct tuner, Brenspeed Custom Tune, JLT True Cold Air Intake, Trickflow 75mm t/b and Plenum, Mac Longtube Headers, Mac o/r H pipe, Borla Stinger Catback, Steeda Lowering Springs, and Mach 1 Chin Spoiler. |
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#4 |
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Regular
2002 Mustang GT
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: O'Fallon
Posts: 174
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upgrading your internals has to do with building an enginge with forged steel parts because they are stronger. Forged crank and forged rods and so on
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#5 |
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Regular
2003 mustang GT
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntertown, IN
Posts: 80
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Yeah, sounds like it is time to step into the performance spotlight... I would look into getting a racing block that will hold the ponies. Start from scratch and do it right, or if your on a budget... tear down your block and take it to a good machine shop and have it inspected so you can possibly bore it or something. as for the tranny, what I did is, went to a well known tranny shop and secretly asked a technician if he wanted to rebuild my tranny and put a shift kit in it at his house on the side for cash... he said he would as long as I drain and drop it out of the car and took it to him. Since he worked at the tranny shop he got a discount on parts. He was well knowledgeable and only charged me $250.00 to rebuild my C6 Trans... Clutches, bands, and all, including shift kit. It’s backed by a 302 with 351 heads pushing 350hp. I put a 2500 stall on it and have never had a problem with it... by the way I picked up the tyranny from a junkyard for $100.00 about 12 years ago...
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#6 |
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I'm going On A Manhunt!
2002 true blue GT
speed of time @ 88mph
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: 55 miles west of Aberdeen SD
Posts: 2,352
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what kind of power are you looking for and whats your budget?
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mac lt's, mac O/R H pipe, spintech super prostreets, JLT RAI, 14"antenna, mach 1 chin spoiler, two 12" kickers.
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#7 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 28
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I've been told there's visible smoke when leaving a stop light. Just changed the oil yesterday, and it was low.
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#8 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 28
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I'm lookin to break into 300hp range. Should stroke and compression be changed or not.
Already have 3.73s, want to upgrade diff and axles to 31 spline. |
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#9 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 28
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I'm lookin to break into 300hp range. Should stroke and compression be changed or not.
Already have 3.73s, want to upgrade diff and axles to 31 spline. |
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#10 |
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Nile P. Pezdel of Pez Dispenser Inc. CCA
2001 Mustang GT Vert
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 4,271
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Look into MMR, get a shortblock built. I'm in the same boat as you right now, so I started a savings account to put my extra pennies into; I'm looking at getting an MMR 900 stroker with a Boss mod block. My car has been sweating oil out the back of the engine for a while now, so I'm hoping that by the summer I can be replacing it. Good luck to you, though.
164k is a lot, good to know these things hold up fairly well. |
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#11 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 28
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I've looked into MMR short blocks and long bl9cks. they tell you how much horesepower they can handle, but i have not found where it says how much they produce.
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#12 |
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Nile P. Pezdel of Pez Dispenser Inc. CCA
2001 Mustang GT Vert
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 4,271
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It's variable depending on you're options. A basic 900 shortblock is simply a regular 4.6 with forged parts, it won't make any extra power (it may make less due to excess weight of forged parts in the rotating assembly, but it'd be negligable). It's all about being strong enough for later stuff. A stroker is usually good for about 30 more hp though. Other than that, if you go for the long block you can get ported heads (or the trickflow heads) which would give you more power and a freer breathing car and cams which can be custom ground to your needs which will also give you an increase in power. Building a shortblock typically only nets you insurance that your car won't fall apart when you put more power into it.
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#13 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
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thats because they are built to Handle power blower, nitrous, cams etc. they are built to handle power alot better than the stock motor. Its not an out of the box high hp race motor its and out of the box built motor for you to upgrade with less risk of blowing something like your rods and pistons.
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03 V1 S trim @5psi 339/359 3:73's Iraq and Afghanistan War Vet 4 deployments from 01-08.My Wife is also a War Vet
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#14 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 28
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That's what I was thinking. Same engine, just can handle more power.
I'm gonna look into an mmr block to fit my needs and budget. Check out some trans kits and from there. I read on one thread that you need lower compression for forced induction, but if I were to stay n/a, would higher compression be worth it? |
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#15 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
04 mustang gt
7.21 @ 98
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: upstate sc
Posts: 5,923
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if all your lookin for is numbers in the 3xx range then you can def. stay n/a and accomplish that. if you want 4xx then its forced induction time.
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#16 |
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Nile P. Pezdel of Pez Dispenser Inc. CCA
2001 Mustang GT Vert
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 4,271
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If you want to be N/A, you basically need higher compression to make it worth it. You certainly will be able to break 300whp with stock compression, though. If you go 11:1 or something, don't think you can put a blower on later. It's monster N/A car or monster boost car, you can't really have both.
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#17 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 28
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Thanks for the info
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#18 |
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Regular
2001 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tullahoma, TN
Posts: 495
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just find a lincoln mark viii and get the 4 valve out of it. they came with 300 crank hp, so it should be easier to get to 300rwhp than the 2 valve build. they can be found pretty cheap too.
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Car is for sale: http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/2510060805.html http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...id=AT-121bdd21
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#19 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 28
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Is that swap involve a lot of changes or fab work?
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#20 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Ford Mustang GT
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,733
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It's pretty close to a direct swap as you can get. There is a thread on here called something along the lines of "Infamous Mark VIII 4V swap" that has all the information you need for the swap.
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