Destroyed a few wheel studs

asiansensation78 · January 31st, 2011, 12:48 AM

01KnightRiderGT and I tore apart my suspension today to make a few adjustments and install new lower control arms. When I took the rear passenger wheel off, it pretty much just destroyed all but 1 wheel stud. He was able to re-thread 3 of them so I'm running 3 out of 5 lug nuts on my car right now. I'll call to a few shops around the area tomorrow but I have a feeling they're all going to charge me $400 to punch out the old studs and install new ones. I've asked around and read a few threads on doing it without taking off the axles, just wondering if I could get some tips or advice on doing so with hand tools.

Here's what I'm thinking:
-Drill a small hole through existing studs
-Spray PB blaster on broken stud
-Use a can of air duster upside down to cool down the stud with the straw through the drilled hole
-Punch out the studs with a hammer
-Shave off a portion of the heads on the new studs to clear the ABS gear
-Leave new studs in dry ice for a while
-Push new stud through, put a large socket over the threaded portion of the stud
-Grease a thin washer and put it on top of the socket
-Turn a lug nut on the new wheel stud (on top of washer and socket) and pull the wheel stud into the correct position

Any input would be appreciated, thanks!

86er · January 31st, 2011, 01:04 AM

beat them out with a hammer yes, you wont need to cool the stud or anything, they come out pretty easy with a hammer and a few love taps. Then ive always just used two cheap 2 dollar acorn lug nuts from a parts store, stack them and use them to pull the stud through

Maverick530 · January 31st, 2011, 01:05 AM

Totally videotape you hammering out the wheel stud with a sledge hammer while playing "Hammer Time"

asiansensation78 · January 31st, 2011, 01:06 AM

Thanks 86er, will I need to trim down the threaded portion of the existing studs to clear the ABS gear?

PeteGT · January 31st, 2011, 01:08 AM

Why not just leave the stud as is and punch out with a deadblow hammer. With stock length studs you shouldn't even need to grind part of teh heads to clear the abs gear. Also when you do pull them through make sure when ur using a open nut that ur washers arent gonna stretch down over the threads and cause them to get stuck. You could be going through quite a bit since they are pretty tough to pull through even with a impact.

86er · January 31st, 2011, 01:35 AM

Originally Posted by asiansensation78

Thanks 86er, will I need to trim down the threaded portion of the existing studs to clear the ABS gear?

shouldnt have to, should just be able to finagle them out.

04N20GT · January 31st, 2011, 03:48 AM

I changed a lot of these this past year. My drag tires kept eating them when I would put them on or take them off. The off center washer that the shank goes through kept f ing up.

Any ways. Just remove the brake calipers and rotor, then beat it out with a hammer, doesnt take much. Then put the new one on and pull it on with an open end nut or get an actual stud puller, but it is the same concept. Not too hard at all, and deffinately easy enough not to take it to a shop to do.

Go to an autozone or napa and make sure you get the rear studs. Don't ask me what the difference is but there are front and rears intheir computer.

KV007 · January 31st, 2011, 04:12 AM

i am having the same problem, i took out the two broken ones and put new ones in, and one of them just spins. whats wrong? and could i fix it with a star washer on back and loctite or something

Jazzer The Cat · January 31st, 2011, 07:52 AM

I have done this swap without removing axles and recommend you pull the axles and do this the right way. The ABS ring is a bit in the way, but can be worked around, if your tricky.

Pulling the axles is easy and good idea to replace the pumpkin fluid anyway.

Jazzer

04N20GT · January 31st, 2011, 10:50 AM

Originally Posted by KV007

i am having the same problem, i took out the two broken ones and put new ones in, and one of them just spins. whats wrong? and could i fix it with a star washer on back and loctite or something

What keeps spinning, the new stud? Either the stud is stripped out or the whole on the hub is, or you are not getting it pulled through far enough.

WhiteVenom · January 31st, 2011, 12:35 PM

Originally Posted by 04N20GT

I changed a lot of these this past year. My drag tires kept eating them when I would put them on or take them off. The off center washer that the shank goes through kept f ing up.

Any ways. Just remove the brake calipers and rotor, then beat it out with a hammer, doesnt take much. Then put the new one on and pull it on with an open end nut or get an actual stud puller, but it is the same concept. Not too hard at all, and deffinately easy enough not to take it to a shop to do.

Go to an autozone or napa and make sure you get the rear studs. Don't ask me what the difference is but there are front and rears intheir computer.

yeah very easy.

You shouldnt pay 400 dollars for changing studs

99GT35thLE · January 31st, 2011, 04:20 PM

Originally Posted by asiansensation78

01KnightRiderGT and I tore apart my suspension today to make a few adjustments and install new lower control arms. When I took the rear passenger wheel off, it pretty much just destroyed all but 1 wheel stud. Any input would be appreciated, thanks!

I'm baffled as hell as to how you managed to destroy that many studs.

asiansensation78 · January 31st, 2011, 04:28 PM

Just got back from a shop, they changed all 5 studs for $150. The mechanic just used a grinder and took off part of the old studs, banged them out, and then shaved off a small part of the heads on the new studs to clear the ABS gear. Drew them in and all is good. I just need to get another set of lug nuts and locks to match the ones I have on the other wheels.

I'll get longer and stronger studs when I upgrade my axles and swap my 4.10s out, just hope I don't destroy any more wheel studs in the time being lol, thanks for the help everyone, just gave everyone some reps

And 99GT, I think I destroyed them due to tightening the lug nuts too much. I'll make sure to keep them at 100 ft-lbs from now on with my new handy dandy torque wrench

KV007 · January 31st, 2011, 08:02 PM

Originally Posted by 04N20GT

What keeps spinning, the new stud? Either the stud is stripped out or the whole on the hub is, or you are not getting it pulled through far enough.

its the hole on the hub. its pulled all the way through and is a new stud.

so what can i do? im not gonna buy a new rotor. can i use loctite and a star washer on the back side?

99GT35thLE · January 31st, 2011, 08:46 PM

What do you use to tighten your lug nuts?

PeteGT · January 31st, 2011, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by 04N20GT

What keeps spinning, the new stud? Either the stud is stripped out or the whole on the hub is, or you are not getting it pulled through far enough.

Sounds like your hub itself has stretched and is no longer grabbing what used to be there. You can be really ghetto and place tac welds but imo i wouldnt do that speaking from experience..

PeteGT · January 31st, 2011, 08:51 PM

Originally Posted by 04N20GT

What keeps spinning, the new stud? Either the stud is stripped out or the whole on the hub is, or you are not getting it pulled through far enough.

Sounds like your hub itself has stretched and is no longer grabbing what used to be there. You can be really ghetto and place tac welds but imo i wouldnt do that speaking from experience..

PeteGT · January 31st, 2011, 08:52 PM

Originally Posted by 04N20GT

What keeps spinning, the new stud? Either the stud is stripped out or the whole on the hub is, or you are not getting it pulled through far enough.

Sounds like your hub itself has stretched and is no longer grabbing what used to be there. You can be really ghetto and place tac welds but imo i wouldnt do that speaking from experience..

WhiteVenom · January 31st, 2011, 09:58 PM

Spray that shit every time you take your wheels off. With wd-40 i sprayed everytime i couldnt imagine you would of had a problem.

1999cobra92 · January 31st, 2011, 10:10 PM

this is how i installed my 3in ARP studs in the front

I used the IRS differential mounts

January 31st, 2011, 12:48 AM	#1
asiansensation78 Too Soon, Junior! 03 GT Vert 15:43.28@25.21 Too many naked bitches in the back Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 3,742 iTrader: 4 reviews	Destroyed a few wheel studs 01KnightRiderGT and I tore apart my suspension today to make a few adjustments and install new lower control arms. When I took the rear passenger wheel off, it pretty much just destroyed all but 1 wheel stud. He was able to re-thread 3 of them so I'm running 3 out of 5 lug nuts on my car right now. I'll call to a few shops around the area tomorrow but I have a feeling they're all going to charge me $400 to punch out the old studs and install new ones. I've asked around and read a few threads on doing it without taking off the axles, just wondering if I could get some tips or advice on doing so with hand tools. Here's what I'm thinking: -Drill a small hole through existing studs -Spray PB blaster on broken stud -Use a can of air duster upside down to cool down the stud with the straw through the drilled hole -Punch out the studs with a hammer -Shave off a portion of the heads on the new studs to clear the ABS gear -Leave new studs in dry ice for a while -Push new stud through, put a large socket over the threaded portion of the stud -Grease a thin washer and put it on top of the socket -Turn a lug nut on the new wheel stud (on top of washer and socket) and pull the wheel stud into the correct position Any input would be appreciated, thanks! __________________ 03 GT - Scrapes on lane markers - Modded 02 Cougar - Able to clear most speed bumps - Some mods 01 Explorer - Parking blocks NOM NOM NOM - Stock Nitrous Switch Panel for sale! Last edited by asiansensation78; January 31st, 2011 at 12:58 AM.

January 31st, 2011, 01:04 AM	#2
86er I Post Entirely Way Too Much Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 7,630 iTrader: 0 reviews	beat them out with a hammer yes, you wont need to cool the stud or anything, they come out pretty easy with a hammer and a few love taps. Then ive always just used two cheap 2 dollar acorn lug nuts from a parts store, stack them and use them to pull the stud through __________________ Just a truck 5.4 3v: 264hp 317ft lbs rock stock The "search" button, its not just for porn piecing together the next project faster than your first sexual experience

January 31st, 2011, 01:06 AM	#4
asiansensation78 Too Soon, Junior! 03 GT Vert 15:43.28@25.21 Too many naked bitches in the back Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 3,742 iTrader: 4 reviews	Thanks 86er, will I need to trim down the threaded portion of the existing studs to clear the ABS gear? __________________ 03 GT - Scrapes on lane markers - Modded 02 Cougar - Able to clear most speed bumps - Some mods 01 Explorer - Parking blocks NOM NOM NOM - Stock Nitrous Switch Panel for sale!

January 31st, 2011, 01:08 AM	#5
PeteGT Regular 03 11.91@113 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Regina,Saskatchewan Posts: 217 iTrader: 0 reviews	Why not just leave the stud as is and punch out with a deadblow hammer. With stock length studs you shouldn't even need to grind part of teh heads to clear the abs gear. Also when you do pull them through make sure when ur using a open nut that ur washers arent gonna stretch down over the threads and cause them to get stuck. You could be going through quite a bit since they are pretty tough to pull through even with a impact. __________________ [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTFyQGmctJA

January 31st, 2011, 03:48 AM	#7
04N20GT Enthusiast 2004 Mustang GT 12.84@108 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Clarksville, TN Posts: 950 iTrader: 4 reviews	I changed a lot of these this past year. My drag tires kept eating them when I would put them on or take them off. The off center washer that the shank goes through kept f ing up. Any ways. Just remove the brake calipers and rotor, then beat it out with a hammer, doesnt take much. Then put the new one on and pull it on with an open end nut or get an actual stud puller, but it is the same concept. Not too hard at all, and deffinately easy enough not to take it to a shop to do. Go to an autozone or napa and make sure you get the rear studs. Don't ask me what the difference is but there are front and rears intheir computer. __________________ MMR 950 Stroker TFS 38cc Heads MHS TFS N/A stage 3.5 cams 11.5:1 compression Nitrous Express wet kit 12.84@108 2.0 60' on motor. race weight was 3750lb 354whp 330wtq motor, 480whp 500wtq 150shot. Proud Iraq and Afghanistan Vet

January 31st, 2011, 01:05 AM	#3
Maverick530 Hardcore Enthusiast 2001 Mustang GT Vert Average Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Lafayette Louisiana Posts: 2,403 iTrader: 0 reviews	Totally videotape you hammering out the wheel stud with a sledge hammer while playing "Hammer Time"

January 31st, 2011, 04:12 AM	#8
KV007 Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 Mustang Gt Slow Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: redding,california Posts: 2,532 Blog Entries: 2 iTrader: 2 reviews	i am having the same problem, i took out the two broken ones and put new ones in, and one of them just spins. whats wrong? and could i fix it with a star washer on back and loctite or something __________________ 409rwhp at 4500 rpms.Vortech V1 Intercooled,kurgan motorsports powerpipe, 3.12 pulley, all Mac Exhaust,Sct Tuner,Bolt Ons,Cobra Brakes,MM cc plates,Vis 2000 cobra r hood,MGW shifter,Strange 31 Spline axles,Eaton Possi

January 31st, 2011, 04:28 PM	#13
asiansensation78 Too Soon, Junior! 03 GT Vert 15:43.28@25.21 Too many naked bitches in the back Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 3,742 iTrader: 4 reviews	Just got back from a shop, they changed all 5 studs for $150. The mechanic just used a grinder and took off part of the old studs, banged them out, and then shaved off a small part of the heads on the new studs to clear the ABS gear. Drew them in and all is good. I just need to get another set of lug nuts and locks to match the ones I have on the other wheels. I'll get longer and stronger studs when I upgrade my axles and swap my 4.10s out, just hope I don't destroy any more wheel studs in the time being lol, thanks for the help everyone, just gave everyone some reps And 99GT, I think I destroyed them due to tightening the lug nuts too much. I'll make sure to keep them at 100 ft-lbs from now on with my new handy dandy torque wrench __________________ 03 GT - Scrapes on lane markers - Modded 02 Cougar - Able to clear most speed bumps - Some mods 01 Explorer - Parking blocks NOM NOM NOM - Stock Nitrous Switch Panel for sale! Last edited by asiansensation78; January 31st, 2011 at 09:11 PM.

January 31st, 2011, 08:46 PM	#15
99GT35thLE Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 GT 35th LE Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Jacksonville, Florida Posts: 1,428 iTrader: 0 reviews	What do you use to tighten your lug nuts? __________________ Drive it like you stole it

January 31st, 2011, 09:58 PM	#19
WhiteVenom MM Fanatic 99 Cobra :p 12.36@119.35 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Lapeer Posts: 4,541 iTrader: 0 reviews	Spray that shit every time you take your wheels off. With wd-40 i sprayed everytime i couldnt imagine you would of had a problem. __________________ MM COBRA CLUB #80 SRA SWAP WRITE UP!

January 31st, 2011, 10:10 PM	#20
1999cobra92 Enthusiast 1999 mustang cobra Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Los Angeles, Ca Posts: 882 iTrader: 1 reviews	this is how i installed my 3in ARP studs in the front I used the IRS differential mounts __________________ Black and White Crew Crew Member # 5 Check garage for mods and pics if you Los Angeles and want to ride send me a text (323) 270-6827 0% Wheel hop, 0% broken parts, 100% wheel spin

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