Is this the proper way to reomve scratches???

Kohrs93 · March 2nd, 2011, 04:19 PM

Ok my hood is scratched to hell. some of them are deep. I found this video on youtube and the guy gets rid of some deep scratches on a car in about 7minutes without pausing or skipping through the video. Is this the correct method to do it and could i do my whole hood? What are the risks? Any other advice you guys can give me would be great... ive never done scratch removal but i want to give it a try. Thanks guys

YouTube - Deep Scratch Removal (Hyundai)

0949er · March 2nd, 2011, 04:34 PM

looks legit, he did say "the paint looks better then the rest of the car" which means you might notice the spots that were touched up

Kohrs93 · March 2nd, 2011, 04:41 PM

do you think i could do it correctly my first time?

zinc-vert02 · March 2nd, 2011, 04:43 PM

i think you will be fine, just take your time and doen skip any steps

emg22189 · March 2nd, 2011, 05:49 PM

kohrs--

You may want to visit the detailing forum. All of those guys have a lot of useful information. there's an official how-to section in there, and this is covered in it.

PRODUCTIONMAN · March 2nd, 2011, 06:44 PM

I'm in the middle of doing my whole car, including some deeper scratches that requie a little touch up paint. a few tips (especailly for a first timer): when wet sanding, keep it really wet, and use light pressure. Stay away from any edges or sharp corners; they cut through real easy. What we're talking about is wet sanding and buffing/polishing ONLY the clear coat. You DON'T want to get into the color. 1000 grit can cut pretty fast, so you may want to start with 1500, then 2000. Like in the video when you dry it you can see where you got consistent sanding and where you haven't sanded to look the same. I'll try to take some photos of mine in process and post them. When yo get to the buffing part, I suggest a much slower speed for beginners (in tact I never go much above 500 rpm at any time, and go as low as 200 rpm when I'm near edges and high point in the body). If your scratches aren't too bad, you can start with a medium polishing pad (foam) and not use the compounding pad which is stiffer. Then progress to the softer finishing pad as in the video. Light pressure for all steps, and keep it moving!. Once you do one spot or panel (and it turns out good) I gaurantee you will want to do the whole car cuz the other panels will look like crap.

VinceS2K · March 2nd, 2011, 08:19 PM

i was also going to say ask in the detailing section.
you'll get alot better responses.

VinceS2K · March 2nd, 2011, 08:19 PM

i was also going to say ask in the detailing section.
you'll get alot better responses.

40thAnnivGT · March 2nd, 2011, 08:33 PM

Wetsand. Buff. Done.

Kohrs93 · March 2nd, 2011, 09:23 PM

Ok i'll try it when it starts to get warmer. Dam mother nature is having her period and we can't get some decent weather around here. What products do you guys use?

March 2nd, 2011, 04:34 PM	#2
0949er MM Fanatic 2004 Mustang GT 12.85 @ 114 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Charlotte Posts: 3,225 iTrader: 0 reviews	looks legit, he did say "the paint looks better then the rest of the car" which means you might notice the spots that were touched up __________________ MODS: Vortech V1 T-Trim @ 7.5 PSI (tuned down) Comp Cam Stage 2's + more 432 rwhp / 396 rwtq 02/27/2011 NEW VIDEOS! It takes ~$60 a rwhp (over stock) for a 99-04 Mustang GT. Do the Math C2H5OH on the horizon

March 2nd, 2011, 04:43 PM	#4
zinc-vert02 Bringing Yellow Back 2002 mustang gt 12.2 at 117 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: WISCONSIN Posts: 9,967 iTrader: 1 reviews	i think you will be fine, just take your time and doen skip any steps __________________ SOON TO BE 5.4 3V POWERD WITH A ROUSH CHARGER HELPING IT BAMA Performance Drag Team Member #4

March 2nd, 2011, 05:49 PM	#5
emg22189 Regular 04 Mustang GT Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Miami, Fl Posts: 165 iTrader: 0 reviews	kohrs-- You may want to visit the detailing forum. All of those guys have a lot of useful information. there's an official how-to section in there, and this is covered in it. __________________ 04 GT Intake, headers, Pypes Violator Catback with catted X, UDPs, 70 MM TB and plenum, steeda short throw, SCT tune, 4.10s.... more to come

March 2nd, 2011, 08:33 PM	#9
40thAnnivGT Hardcore Enthusiast 2004 Mustang GT 12.35 @ 116 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Parma, Ohio Posts: 1,126 iTrader: 0 reviews	Wetsand. Buff. Done. __________________ Vortech boosted MMR900 and supporting mods 420rwhp 410rwtq loaded Mustang Dyno Turbo boost in progress

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March 2nd, 2011, 06:44 PM	#6
PRODUCTIONMAN Regular 2002 Mustang GT Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Chicago Posts: 230 iTrader: 0 reviews	I'm in the middle of doing my whole car, including some deeper scratches that requie a little touch up paint. a few tips (especailly for a first timer): when wet sanding, keep it really wet, and use light pressure. Stay away from any edges or sharp corners; they cut through real easy. What we're talking about is wet sanding and buffing/polishing ONLY the clear coat. You DON'T want to get into the color. 1000 grit can cut pretty fast, so you may want to start with 1500, then 2000. Like in the video when you dry it you can see where you got consistent sanding and where you haven't sanded to look the same. I'll try to take some photos of mine in process and post them. When yo get to the buffing part, I suggest a much slower speed for beginners (in tact I never go much above 500 rpm at any time, and go as low as 200 rpm when I'm near edges and high point in the body). If your scratches aren't too bad, you can start with a medium polishing pad (foam) and not use the compounding pad which is stiffer. Then progress to the softer finishing pad as in the video. Light pressure for all steps, and keep it moving!. Once you do one spot or panel (and it turns out good) I gaurantee you will want to do the whole car cuz the other panels will look like crap.

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