T56 Won't Go Into Gear
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Old June 5th, 2011, 10:23 PM   #1
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T56 Won't Go Into Gear


Ok guys, so my friend's 03 cobra is having some issues. The clutch has gotten pretty damn heavy lately and then just recently it decided not to go into gear. I replaced the clutch cable on it, and it has an aluminum quadrant. It appears to be adjusted properly (pressure plate fingers have 1/8 of an inch until the TOB) but won't go into gear when the car is turned on.

Basically it feels like the clutch doesn't want to fully disengage. You can row through the gears when the car is off, but not on. I put the car in first, started it while still holding the clutch down and the car started rolling forward like an automatic (another sign that the clutch is not fully disengaging). I can shift the car, as long as I rev-match no clutch shift (similar to what truckers do).

He does have a firewall adjuster, and I'm sure i could adjust it so that the clutch fully disengages, but I feel like if I do this the clutch will always be slipping when the pedal is released.

The pedal took a ton of effort until I put the new cable in, signifying what i thought was a stretched cable. Do you guys think his clutch is starting to kick the bucket? Or should I try to adjust the firewall adjuster like I was saying before?

Thanks guys.
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Old June 6th, 2011, 09:51 AM   #2
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no one?
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Old June 6th, 2011, 10:12 AM   #3
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Might want to try in the 4v/SVT section. Or search for something over on SVTP. Those guys have far more experience with the T56 than the handful of swapped guys here.

Certainly wish I could help you with T56 information.
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Old June 6th, 2011, 10:40 AM   #4
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Sounds like a quadrant issue. But i did have one car come to me with a bad clutch and it wouldnt go into any gears and the pedal was said to have gotten heavier before it went
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Old June 6th, 2011, 10:51 AM   #5
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The way I adjusted my clutch cable, turned the firewall adjuster all the way IN. Then did it how you did undeneathe, so the TOB is about 1/8" away from the fingers. Then felt the clutch, then turned the firewall adjuster out until there was about 1/2 of free play on the clutch pedal at the top.
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Old June 6th, 2011, 10:54 AM   #6
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Yup I posted on SVT. I just know a lot of guys here have pretty good knowledge. And it has an aftermarket quadrant eliminating the possibility of the stock one bending/ twisting.
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Old June 6th, 2011, 12:41 PM   #7
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Kind of off topic/threadjack-ish, but is there a way to adjust the stock cable on a 98 GT? Dad is having issues with his now with a year and a half old clutch. I know the one way to lift up on the clutch pedal and then push down but that does nothing.
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Old June 6th, 2011, 01:24 PM   #8
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That method adjusts the quadrant. Stock cables are non adjustable. Your best bet is to buy a firewall adjuster.
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Old June 6th, 2011, 03:52 PM   #9
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stick ur hand in the hole were the throw out bearing fork is and see if there is any material sittin at the bottom of the bell housin , sounds like a bad clutch to me for it to be at the point of not engagein thats more than just an improper adjusted cable
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Old June 6th, 2011, 03:59 PM   #10
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i had that prob on a hydraulic clutch in a fwd. idk try bleeding the clutch
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Old June 6th, 2011, 04:42 PM   #11
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The clutch should still let the tranny engage even if its worn. Itll just slip. Just sounds like the adjustment is way off.

Andy try doing like I said, turn the firewall adjuster all the way in, then go underneathe and tighten it so the TOB is 1/8 of an inch away from the fingers. Then turn the firewall adjuster out some. I did it til I had 1/2" of free play in the pedal at the top, then it grabbed near the top of the release.
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Old June 6th, 2011, 05:11 PM   #12
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Alright I'll give it a shot and get back to you. The thing that has me worried is that one day it was fine and the next it wasn't.
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Old June 7th, 2011, 05:26 PM   #13
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Fixed. Yeah Shaun it was just wayyy out of alignment. The firewall adjuster is unscrewed like 2-3 inches but it works fine now.
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Old June 7th, 2011, 05:41 PM   #14
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Sweet deal. Glad u got it fixed.
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Old June 7th, 2011, 07:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by joshdj13 View Post
i had that prob on a hydraulic clutch in a fwd. idk try bleeding the clutch
What he said... BLEED THAT CLUTCH CABLE!!!!
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Old June 7th, 2011, 07:40 PM   #16
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LOL. Our cars use mechanical clutch kits. I will say though, drove a WS6 before with the hydraulic clutch, feels awesome. Its like a $600 swap on our cars. Not worth it in my opinion.
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Old June 7th, 2011, 08:05 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Shaun03GT View Post
LOL. Our cars use mechanical clutch kits. I will say though, drove a WS6 before with the hydraulic clutch, feels awesome. Its like a $600 swap on our cars. Not worth it in my opinion.
Yeah I saw that. McCloud or something makes it. If I hit the jackpot I'd probably get it. Until then though...
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Old November 5th, 2011, 11:52 PM   #18
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Anyone got an answer to this rather the aftermarket adjustable quadrant and firewall adjuster works? Im having the same exact problem with 9 month, 5,000 mile RAM hdx clutch and still have stock cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 03:44 AM   #19
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the proper ajustment is the throw out bearing rides on the fingers at all times, alot of people dont like this since it makes the pedal real high but to ajust it proper pull on the cable so all the slack is out and turn the fire wall ajuster so there is 1/8th inch gap.
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Old November 6th, 2011, 07:32 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Shaun03GT View Post
LOL. Our cars use mechanical clutch kits. I will say though, drove a WS6 before with the hydraulic clutch, feels awesome. Its like a $600 swap on our cars. Not worth it in my opinion.
Lol I'm so used to a mechanical clutch when I drive any car with a hydraulic clutch I feel like I'm going to destroy the pedal.

Glad to see you fixed your issue OP
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