Replacing 4.6 Rod bearings while in car. - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing 4.6 Rod bearings while in car.

Searched around and found a bit of info but mostly just people saying to pull the motor and get a new one built at a shop. I thought I saw an article on here awhile ago on how to do this but was unable to find it.

Basically my car has a rod knock between 2000-3000rpm's while under a load only, I got a full set of rod bearings and want to replace them while the engine is still in the car. Do I have to pull the crank? Does the K-Member have to come out to remove the oil pan or can it all be done with the k member in place?

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post #2 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 05:11 PM
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Pull the motor out, it will be 65,000 times easier to on.
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post #3 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 05:20 PM
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If you use an engine cradle you could drop the k member and have full access to the pan for removal. I wouldn't attempt that though. It would be infinitely easier to pull the motor, even if you only replace the bearings. You're talking about having to wrestle with a heavy ass crank laying on your back and trying to get the rods back on the journals blahblahblahblah. It just seems like a disaster waiting to happen to me.


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post #4 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well it would be two of us working on it and I wanted to see if it's possible to pull the pan and not drop the k member. Also we were tossing the possibility of not dropping the crnk just spinning them in one cap at a time.

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post #5 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 05:43 PM
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Perhaps if the motor was jacked up high enough but I promise you the K member is easy as hell to pull. Two nuts and one bolt at the top of each strut tower, eight bolts on the K and it's gone. Takes me twenty minutes to drop a K. It's too quick and easy to get out of the way and will give you a shit load of room. If you're gonna do what you're saying that will be the easiest way.


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post #6 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 05:52 PM
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I did leave out the two motor mounts, removing the front tires and brake calipers but I'm serious about the twenty minute removal time.


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post #7 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 07:17 PM
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the crank doesnt have to come out to replace the rod bearings, BUT you dont know what kind of damage is done to the journal on the crank and if its chewed up at all youll be right back to square one replacing bearings again

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post #8 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 09:01 PM
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If your bearing went out that means you could have metal shavings all over the place. I would be scared to just put new bearings in. I would want to have all of the oil gallies cleaned out.
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post #9 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 09:12 PM
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You could change them but chewed up bearings get spit out somewhere else. You need to tear it all apart and clean it up to make sure you are just dealing with changing bearings.
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post #10 of 19 Old June 21st, 2011, 10:14 PM
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I have replaced rod bearings with engine in car. I have a tubular k-member and did not have to drop it. It was for sure easier than pulling the engine.

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post #11 of 19 Old June 22nd, 2011, 09:43 AM
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I have done this in the past, just never to one of my mustangs. I've replaced bearings, parked outside on the lot with the newly non-knocking motor and for sale sign on the dash. I wouldn't do it that way on what I was gonna keep. just saying.


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post #12 of 19 Old June 22nd, 2011, 08:27 PM
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If u have a stock K then itll have to be dropped, and you can just rotate the crank and do the bearings in pairs. Crank can be polised with emery cloth or get some 1000 grit and tear into strips. Depd on the severity of the failure some pieces of the bearing may be stuck to the crank. Make sure to clean everything well and lube the hell outta the new bearings

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post #13 of 19 Old June 22nd, 2011, 08:42 PM
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Its really easy to pull these motors. i dont know why your so afraid to pull it.


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post #14 of 19 Old June 23rd, 2011, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not afraid to pull it, it's just easier done this way. Project was done in a little over 6 hours starts to finish. We dropped the crank, cleaned everything really good, put it back together with new bearings well lubed up, new oil and fired it up. No more knock but we did put a magnet on the pan to draw all the shavings down. I am in agreement with you though, if I was keeping the car I would not have done it this way but as the car is sold (Traded rather) I'm not too worried about it. Dick move I know right?

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post #15 of 19 Old June 23rd, 2011, 02:10 AM
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LOL, yes definitely a dick move. You adequately repaired the problem. I've done the same..... as-is no warranty have a nice day.


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post #16 of 19 Old February 5th, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Magnet on the pan? I thought rod and main bearings were aluminum?

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post #17 of 19 Old February 13th, 2012, 08:22 PM
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oh man i am about to try this out....knocking on my car. we wil see

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post #18 of 19 Old February 13th, 2012, 09:30 PM
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Keep oil in them, they wont knock lol

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post #19 of 19 Old February 13th, 2012, 10:23 PM
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Ok... Ill give my recent experience on this.... I had "rod knock" (spun rod bearing) in my motor here recently. I pulled K member, replaced bearings and put it back together. As EVERYONE said, it did not last. Might have lasted 600-800 miles. Ive got it pulled apart now and its the same rod and the bearing is wore out again! Dont waste your time dude. You cant get away with doing that shit. If you decide to, good luck! You'll need it!


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