Well it was leaking before gear install and it insist to leak after gear install even though i installed a new seal...its only leaking between the seal flange and the housing as far as i know, and It leaves between a penny to a quater size drop on the ground over night. Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't, and i was reading around that to replace it again the proper way is to take the rear end apart and replace the crush washer ( even though i reused the old one just fine). :shiftyeyes
Is it even worth replacing again, or just let it leak? haha
I wouldn't go into the rear, but that's me. Buy a new seal, apply a SMALL bead of RTV around the rear end housing (pinion opening) and tap the new seal in place. Then replace flange, nut etc.
I just went through this process myself. It can be done without taking the whole rear end apart, but you need to take the right precautions. Mark the pinion nut in relation to the pinion threaded rod. Take the wheels and brakes off and measure the preload with an inch-lb beam torque wrench. Buy one and use it before you get into doing this in case things go wrong.
I took a flat piece of stock and made a tool to bolt to the pinion flange and hit the floor to keep it from rotating. Count the threads when backing off the pinion nut. Also I would use a ft-lb wrench starting at 90 ft/lbs and moving up in 5 lb increments to see how much torque it takes to initially break the nut loose. this will be a good place to start when re-torquing.
Take the nut all the way off, and use a two or three jaw puller for the pinion flange. Use a seal puller to pull the seal itself and be careful not to scratch the walls of the housing. Use a new OEM seal (trust me). Clean the housing thoroughly. Now for the best tip no one taught me.
Place the old seal after wiping down on the pinion flange itself. Place the the new seal on the flange behind it. Place a bead of RTV on the outside edge of the seal where it will touch the housing itself. Tighten it down until the new seal is pressed into the housing most of the way. Remove the flange again and use a rubber mallet to fully seat it (carefully).
Lube the center bearing section of the pinion flange which touches the seal with molybdenum lube. Put the flange on and tighten in down counting the revolutions of the nut. Tighten it the width of 1/16" past the old mark checking the torque on the nut itself to see where it comes in. Check the pre-load with the in-lb beam wrench. Done. There are more step for removing the driveshaft and refilling the oil, but I left those out as they are much easier.
i wouldn't even bother with that. i'd see how it feels before, count the threads, and then get it back to where it has the same amount of threads showing and feels about the same.
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