Need stronger bottom end, tight budget, but want it right
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Old May 29th, 2006, 12:47 AM   #1
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Need stronger bottom end, tight budget, but want it right


Hopefully someone can send me in the right direction. I have a 99 GT, SOHC 4.6, and I've kinda started adding HP every chance I got to purchase something new, and I'm at the point that I know the factory bottom end will not handle what I have done if I run it very hard. I only have the car on the road about three months out of the year, no strip runs, but like to break hearts at participating traffic lights from time to time. The car looks harmless. I wont go into all the mods right now, but I either need to get a short block set up to handle what I have, or purchase a high HP, blower friendly, stroker kit, do the install myself in order to keep the cost down and be able to change out the flywheel, and clutch assembly while I'm in there. I've done all the work, been in the top end, and not afraid to tackle the rest. My question is this. If an engine only has 35,000 miles on it, and a stroker kit were being installed, am I right in thinking the cylinder walls would have to be honed or dressed to properly seat the new rings? I have heard that it would not be mandatory, that the rings would seat after a few miles, but I haven't heard of a standard to rebuild without some kind of cylinder work. It would be nice if it were true, cause a kid in college had put my car in the corner of the garage for longer than I like, but I've got to toughen the bottom end one way or the other, and soon. I'd like to get a DSS short block and be done with it, but thought I'd see what someone else out there might recommend, and also get info on the cylinder walls. Thanks in advance.
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Old May 29th, 2006, 02:05 AM   #2
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what all do you have done to the car that you need a new bottom end. yo should be good on the bottom end till you get to about 450 rwhp! anyways, i went with a DSS stroker bottom end with my rebuild! i didnt ave the time or the experience in putting one together myself so i left it to the pros to do it! anyways i think CHP, livernois, and several other sell stroker kits and those i listed have a very good reputation. so hopefully i helped a bit and well talk to you later!
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Old May 29th, 2006, 09:18 AM   #3
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Two ways to go about it (I'm doing this right now as well).

Either go with a professionally built engine, this is the best company and the best price I've found. Modular Mustang Racing offers a new block, new crank, forged rods and forged pistons, assembled and balanced to handle 600rwhp and 8,000 rpm :eek. For $2700 you get a forged Cobra crank and name brand rods to handle 900rwhp. All you'd need for high RPM reliability is a better oil pump, and they've got one pretty cheap.

Alternatively, if you do an eBay search for Forged 4.6 You'll come accross a seller named speedyparts Selling a cheap forged piston and rod kit for $695 and a good kit for $879. All you'd need then would be to have it balanced with your crank and get an oil pump. You will definately want to hone your cylinders, if not go ahead and go .020" over (make sure you order your pistons for the right bore, and compression). Rings will not seat properly on an already smooth bore, no matter what anyone else says. You've got about 100 miles on the engine after a fresh hone to do 90% of the ring sealing.
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Old May 29th, 2006, 09:38 AM   #4
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The changes I have made as of now are a ProCharger supercharger, 12 lbs boost, 3 core air to air intercooler, 42 lb injectors, 99 Lightning mass air, 255 liter/hour fuel pump, C&L intake plenum, BBK 75mm throttle body, 268H grind Comp Cams / valve springs, MAC long tube headers, off road “H” pipe, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, Ford Racing aluminum drive shaft, Granettelli rear control arms, 3:73 gears, UPR Blue Thunder short throw shifter, 275/40 17 Nitto Drags on rear, custom made full length sub frame connectors, reinforced torque boxes, cross drilled and slotted rotors, all the necessary gauges (plus a small shift light), and a custom tune by Brenspeed using the SCT 2 . Sorry about the extras that don't have to do with the engine, but I copied this from info I have saved on my PC. I'll have some HP / torque numbers in about two weeks, cars still in winter storage due to cash flow, but I'm sure I've exceded the 500 flywheel, 400 a.t.w. HP that I have been told should be my safe limit for a stock bottom end. I was only running 8lbs boost, but added the extra 4lb, the intake stuff and the tune this winter. I tweeked the tune with the SCT 2 and set the rev limiter at 5000 rather than the preset 6200 until I upgrade, but I may still be over the limit at that. I talked to a guy at DSS, liked him and what he had to say, and they rated good with 5.0 magazine. The guy seemed to know his stuff, and said he had a short block that was set up for a thousand HP, could add the stroker kit if I wanted, and with my current setup and a little more boost, could put 800 a.t.w. I wont see those numbers til my current supercharger gives out, if it ever does, due to the rpm limit on a PS1C, and not changing it til it dies. It' was plenty fast when I parked it last year, faster than most stuff on the road around here, and with this winters changes it will be an added suprise for those who want revenge. It doesn't look fancy, body and wheels are stock, and it suckers alot of rides into thinking it's just another GT, but guys who know what to listen for know somethings up. The whistle and the cams are a giveaway if they take the time to listen before they leap. If you want to see it, heres a link http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2319415.
Have you had a good experience with DSS so far?
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Old May 29th, 2006, 09:46 AM   #5
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coolridgedug, how much power are you making that makes you think you your stock bottom end won't handle it? It sounds like you have no experience with rebuilding engines. If that's the case I'd suggest leaving it to the professionals or you will probably be sorry. With a stock engine you can get away with some minor screw ups. With a performance engine you can not. New rings will not seat without the cylinders being honed. The bores will also have to be checked for wear and straightness BEFORE you order any pistons. If the bore is wore at all you will have to bore the block and use oversized pistons. If you are running a power adder you will have to have bigger bearing clearances, ring clearances and piston to bore clearances or you will break alot of parts.

Joe, anything that advertises how much REAR WHEEL horsepower it can handle has been falsely advertised. How the hell do they know how much horsepower my drivetrain consumes?
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Old May 29th, 2006, 09:59 AM   #6
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They advertise it as 600 horsepower, I called and asked them if that was engine or wheel rated and they told me 600rwhp, then proceeded to tell me they've never had a failure related to too much power. Bold claim, I know, but they're real popular on Corral.net and have been there for a long time.
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Old May 29th, 2006, 10:40 AM   #7
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Thanks for the replies


I wanted to put the "no need for honing" rumor to rest, and it didn't take long. I'm gonna have to go with a short block to make sure I get what I need, and that its right. Around here, it would be cheaper to buy one ready to go, rather than have mine prepped with the right stuff. I'm not afraid to tear into anything, and have done all the work on this ride myself (besides the tuning of the SCT), but when it comes to this part, and whats on the line, I'm better off getting a short block. I'm still a few tools shy of the dream garage. I have my car mods listed in an earlier post for an idea of what I'm putting out right now, and want to have a bottom end that will handle somewhere around 800 HP just in case my current S.C ever dies and I decide to add a little more boost. The current one cannot have a smaller pulley swap due to the rpm lilmit. I do plan on adding a Typhoon intake and new heads farely soon, but calling it quits for a while after that. I'll have some dyno numbers in a few weeks. The car is still in the garage (college kid killing the car fund) and tags and insurance are dead. To anyone with information on where to get a good block with strong boost friendly internals, or any other recommendations, your help is appreciated. Also, thanks to those who have replied so far. It's alot easier having the help of those that have traveled this road before, knowing what works, and where to get what you pay for. Thanks again.
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Old May 29th, 2006, 02:50 PM   #8
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when i was ealing with dss for my short block i was very veryimpressed with their knowledge and customer servic! they were easy to work with and answered every ? i had quickly. i decided to go 4v in my rebuild and i will be going twin turbo so im hoping for more than 1000 horse power but well see. the engine i bought from dss is the 5.0 super pro midular with stage 20 cnc race block. balanced, blueprinted, and i also got the main support which i would recomend if you plan on running a lot of power. cant be to safe!!! anyways yeah i have the p1sc also and i want to upgrade to the f1a race blower! ill be running the p1sc fr awhile untill i can afford to wither do the f1a or the turbos. anyways good luck and it sounds like youve got a hell of a car on your hands!!! cya later
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Old May 29th, 2006, 03:07 PM   #9
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Thanks for the reply


I've got something on my hands alright, but I don't really know what yet. I'm trying not to get myself thinking big numbers til I see what they actually are. Then I will know what I need to keep it together. All I know is it is fast, and unless the road and tires are hot, theres no bite through two gears. At 8psi the Nittos would hold when they were hot, but since I added 4lbs, I've only snuck it out the road for a quick try, and it was cool out. The summer heat should help, but then again, maybe a little slippage is good, considering grip means all that torque is lurking around trying to find the weak spot in my drivetrain, and theres a few vulnerable areas right now. I had another forum member send me a link for MMR blocks. I visited the link, the prices are great, the parts sound to be well known makers, and reliable, but it's the first I had heard of them. Have you delt with anyone else that has purchased a block from them? I know DSS rates well, and I liked talking to the guy, but if I can get a quality block at a better price, I'll be putting things together sooner. Oh yeah, the main support is a priority. I've heard nothing but good about them. Good luck on the turbo's, it will be a handful, but a real treat to drive.
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