Crate or just rebuild?

'99 Stalker · August 25th, 2011, 05:51 PM

So I have a 1999 Mustang GT it has a 4.6 2v, and this winter I'm planning on taking it off the road and doing a complete over haul and my goal is to get 600 rwhp.There no time limit and about a $12,000 cap. But I've been looking at the hellion twin turbo set up which would easily help me achieve my goal. Now what it really comes down to is if the hellion is the right way to go? Should I just forge the stock block or go with a crate engine? Also my stock block heat seized about 4 months ago,3000 miles(due to someone draining the oil out of my car), but once it cooled down it turned right over. But ever sense I've had some bad ticking from the lifters and a pretty harsh knock in the bottom end, so would that possibly call for machining? And also if i decide to go with a crate motor what would be a good choice?

wtfcrunch · August 25th, 2011, 06:21 PM

Originally Posted by '99 Stalker

So I have a 1999 Mustang GT it has a 4.6 2v, and this winter I'm planning on taking it off the road and doing a complete over haul and my goal is to get 600 rwhp.There no time limit and about a $12,000 cap. But I've been looking at the hellion twin turbo set up which would easily help me achieve my goal. Now what it really comes down to is if the hellion is the right way to go? Should I just forge the stock block or go with a crate engine? Also my stock block heat seized about 4 months ago,3000 miles(due to someone draining the oil out of my car), but once it cooled down it turned right over. But ever sense I've had some bad ticking from the lifters and a pretty harsh knock in the bottom end, so would that possibly call for machining? And also if i decide to go with a crate motor what would be a good choice?

4v with a supercharger. Which will put you possibly over your cap.

MMR is one of the best places to get a block from.

If you search engine builds there have been some very detailed threads in the last 6 months.

bulloch27 · August 25th, 2011, 06:34 PM

That scares me......... have you considered just buying an aluminator long block from Ford Racing and bolting the hellion on?

03Black2v · August 25th, 2011, 07:19 PM

Originally Posted by bulloch27

That scares me......... have you considered just buying an aluminator long block from Ford Racing and bolting the hellion on?

P1SCstangGT · August 25th, 2011, 09:35 PM

Originally Posted by bulloch27

That scares me......... have you considered just buying an aluminator long block from Ford Racing and bolting the hellion on?

or any blower or turbo lol

Eagle2000GT · August 26th, 2011, 12:03 AM

The aluminator is fairly expensive and it is designed for high boost so it has a fairly low compression ratio. I was looking into this just today. For the price of an aluminator you can get an MMR long block rated at 750 rwhp and 7500 rpms with Trick Flow head and supercharger cams. It is a drop in mod motor.

Edit: The aluminator is rated for about 600 rwhp.

bulloch27 · August 26th, 2011, 07:46 AM

I'm definitely not going to argue the price...... MPS had one a month or two ago.. it was a shortblock but it was CHEAP. I understand that cheap is few and far between though. I like Eagle's idea of a complete motor with TFs too.

DynoDon · August 26th, 2011, 07:58 AM

call Hellion, tell them how much HP you want and ask them what it would cost of they built a motor w/turbo for you. They do that sort of stuff.

bulloch27 · August 26th, 2011, 08:00 AM

Originally Posted by DynoDon

call Hellion, tell them how much HP you want and ask them what it would cost of they built a motor w/turbo for you. They do that sort of stuff.

Oh that sounds expensive...... but completely hassle free.

NickPohlAandP · August 26th, 2011, 09:07 AM

$12k budget? Dang. Go nuts and put an LS in there and make your goal N/A. Or you can build a crazy badass mod motor for that kind of money. Wish I had $12k.

stal94gt · August 26th, 2011, 09:22 AM

12k is not as much as people think to build a car right. Odds are if your shooting for a drag car which 600+ hp sounds like the op is, I would invest a good chunk of money into a th400/c4 trans and a built rear end and suspention you will loose almost 5k if not more in that setup. Then you need a k member front suspention combo which can run upwards of 1k+. To cut some cost I would stay 2v and port the heads you have. If you get mmr to build you a 900 sb with all arp hardware your looking at 3k for everything. 750 for port 250 for springs and 200 for bronze guides and 500 for cams. Then you need fuel which for 600 hp will cost 1200 or more depending if you go return style. And a hellion ft kit is 5 grand its self but even if you plan on going with on3 your still looking at 2500+ with a decent turbo. Doing things right adds up.

cbjohnson9 · August 26th, 2011, 09:42 AM

That's really Shi**y that someone would drain the oil out of the car. I hope that wasn't someone trying to play a joke on you. That's not even funny. Sorry to hear that man.

My personal preference is to get an aluminum block in there for weights savings so I would ditch the stock block.

Your cam journals might be trash if you ran the motor with no oil. There's no bearings that they run on. If you had TFS heads in there, you could just replace cam towers. This might be something to consider in case this happens again in the future...

I suspect the knock coming from the bottom end is a spun bearing. If you choose to reuse the block, it might need to be line honed. The GT crank was cast, so I would plan on replacing it with a forged unit and not even bother to see if it's useable.

saxmanJJ · August 26th, 2011, 01:36 PM

If I had to do it over again I would have just bought a longblock from MMR.

What I did do was buy one of their shortblocks and a set of their stage II heads and have a mechanic move the timing stuff, cams, rockers, lifters from my old motor over to the new setup. With all the labor $$$ it would have been just as inexpensive (LOL) and definitely less time consuming to just get a longblock and drop it in.

August 25th, 2011, 05:51 PM	#1
'99 Stalker Look Ma! My First Post! Join Date: Aug 2011 Posts: 1 iTrader: 0 reviews	Crate or just rebuild? So I have a 1999 Mustang GT it has a 4.6 2v, and this winter I'm planning on taking it off the road and doing a complete over haul and my goal is to get 600 rwhp.There no time limit and about a $12,000 cap. But I've been looking at the hellion twin turbo set up which would easily help me achieve my goal. Now what it really comes down to is if the hellion is the right way to go? Should I just forge the stock block or go with a crate engine? Also my stock block heat seized about 4 months ago,3000 miles(due to someone draining the oil out of my car), but once it cooled down it turned right over. But ever sense I've had some bad ticking from the lifters and a pretty harsh knock in the bottom end, so would that possibly call for machining? And also if i decide to go with a crate motor what would be a good choice?

August 25th, 2011, 06:34 PM	#3
bulloch27 Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 Mustang Fauxbra N/T @ Fast Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Statesboro, Ga Posts: 2,879 iTrader: 0 reviews	That scares me......... have you considered just buying an aluminator long block from Ford Racing and bolting the hellion on? __________________ All the typical bolt-ons, well a lot are welded on. Bone stock I tell ya. First time at the track, what do I do now? 03 Silver Fauxbra; 06 Legend Lime GT, 89 Outwlaw 10.5W Coupe, 93 Teal Cobra, 93 Red GT, 93 Teal LX - All Sold

August 26th, 2011, 12:03 AM	#6
Eagle2000GT I Post Entirely Way Too Much 2000 Mustang GT 12.73@111.36 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Shelbyville, IN Posts: 5,311 iTrader: 1 reviews	The aluminator is fairly expensive and it is designed for high boost so it has a fairly low compression ratio. I was looking into this just today. For the price of an aluminator you can get an MMR long block rated at 750 rwhp and 7500 rpms with Trick Flow head and supercharger cams. It is a drop in mod motor. Edit: The aluminator is rated for about 600 rwhp. __________________ ProCharger P-1SC, 9 psi, STD 396/383; Uncorrected 388/375; SAE 383/370 Mods list in Garage. Last edited by Eagle2000GT; August 26th, 2011 at 12:32 PM.

August 26th, 2011, 07:46 AM	#7
bulloch27 Hardcore Enthusiast 2003 Mustang Fauxbra N/T @ Fast Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Statesboro, Ga Posts: 2,879 iTrader: 0 reviews	I'm definitely not going to argue the price...... MPS had one a month or two ago.. it was a shortblock but it was CHEAP. I understand that cheap is few and far between though. I like Eagle's idea of a complete motor with TFs too. __________________ All the typical bolt-ons, well a lot are welded on. Bone stock I tell ya. First time at the track, what do I do now? 03 Silver Fauxbra; 06 Legend Lime GT, 89 Outwlaw 10.5W Coupe, 93 Teal Cobra, 93 Red GT, 93 Teal LX - All Sold

August 26th, 2011, 07:58 AM	#8
DynoDon Regular 2000 Saleen Mustang Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Waukesha, WI Posts: 224 iTrader: 0 reviews	call Hellion, tell them how much HP you want and ask them what it would cost of they built a motor w/turbo for you. They do that sort of stuff. __________________ 2000 Saleen Mustang Numerous suspension and drivetrain upgrades Speed is Good!

August 26th, 2011, 09:07 AM	#10
NickPohlAandP I like boobs!!! 2000 GT convertible dunno Join Date: May 2011 Location: Brooklet, GA Posts: 2,827 iTrader: 2 reviews	$12k budget? Dang. Go nuts and put an LS in there and make your goal N/A. Or you can build a crazy badass mod motor for that kind of money. Wish I had $12k. __________________ Last time you voted to prove you aren't racist. This time prove you're not an IDIOT!!! My Garage--->http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-member-46919/

August 26th, 2011, 09:22 AM	#11
stal94gt I Post Entirely Way Too Much 2003 mustang v6 ;) slow Join Date: May 2010 Location: eglin afb florida Posts: 10,197 iTrader: 2 reviews	12k is not as much as people think to build a car right. Odds are if your shooting for a drag car which 600+ hp sounds like the op is, I would invest a good chunk of money into a th400/c4 trans and a built rear end and suspention you will loose almost 5k if not more in that setup. Then you need a k member front suspention combo which can run upwards of 1k+. To cut some cost I would stay 2v and port the heads you have. If you get mmr to build you a 900 sb with all arp hardware your looking at 3k for everything. 750 for port 250 for springs and 200 for bronze guides and 500 for cams. Then you need fuel which for 600 hp will cost 1200 or more depending if you go return style. And a hellion ft kit is 5 grand its self but even if you plan on going with on3 your still looking at 2500+ with a decent turbo. Doing things right adds up. __________________ bone stock from the factory!

August 26th, 2011, 09:42 AM	#12
cbjohnson9 Enthusiast 2001 Mustang GT Vert. Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Kansas City Posts: 860 iTrader: 0 reviews	That's really Shi**y that someone would drain the oil out of the car. I hope that wasn't someone trying to play a joke on you. That's not even funny. Sorry to hear that man. My personal preference is to get an aluminum block in there for weights savings so I would ditch the stock block. Your cam journals might be trash if you ran the motor with no oil. There's no bearings that they run on. If you had TFS heads in there, you could just replace cam towers. This might be something to consider in case this happens again in the future... I suspect the knock coming from the bottom end is a spun bearing. If you choose to reuse the block, it might need to be line honed. The GT crank was cast, so I would plan on replacing it with a forged unit and not even bother to see if it's useable. __________________ Mods in garage

August 26th, 2011, 01:36 PM	#13
saxmanJJ Hardcore Enthusiast 2004 Mustang GT 11.463@121.50 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: SE PA Posts: 1,644 iTrader: 1 reviews	If I had to do it over again I would have just bought a longblock from MMR. What I did do was buy one of their shortblocks and a set of their stage II heads and have a mechanic move the timing stuff, cams, rockers, lifters from my old motor over to the new setup. With all the labor $$$ it would have been just as inexpensive (LOL) and definitely less time consuming to just get a longblock and drop it in. __________________ MM Bracket Racing Crew Member #5

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