[Truth223]

For a daily driver,what would be a good,all around shock/strut/spring set up? When are CC plates needed?

[NickPohlAandP]

I don't know about what setup you should use but I do know that any time you lower a mustang you will need the CC plates.

[iFart]

Springs is pretty much personal preference depending on how low you want to go.

[wtfcrunch]

I would look into a mild to medium lowering spring. 1" to 1.75" like Ford C springs. And for shocks, some Tokico Blues will be more than over the top but give you a reasonable ride.

[V8POWA!]

I have eibach pro kit with their pro damper shocks and struts with max motor cc plates and I like it.

I woul plan on getting cc plates no matter what, but some people can get away without them for a while.

[ReverendDexter]

Really depends on what your needs and goals are and what you'll put up with.

If you're just wanting the looks, and don't really care about handling or ride quality, then it doesn't really matter, just get a cheap set of springs, and pull your isolators if you want an extra 1/2" or so.

If you do care about ride quality, then you need to get a set of shocks that matches your new springs. Bilsteins are going to give the best ride quality with just about any spring out there, but you'll need to upgrade to *something* better than stock for any decent aftermarket spring.

Now, if you care about handling, this is a whole huge bag of worms that you're about to open. It's not bad in the rear, lowering doesn't muck with geometry at all. But up front? You're lowering your front roll center even lower than it already is, your steering geometry gets even more wonky, and you get nasty dynamic negative camber loss requiring GOBS of static negative camber if you want any cornering grip.

[slikirish]

This is the only thing I can contribute. My eibach pro kit springs with isos removed rides rough as shit. I have not upgraded the shocks and struts yet. Also, I didn't need CC plates. Alignment shop was able to get it within good spec without them.

[PRODUCTIONMAN]

my car is lowered about 1-1/4" all around with H & R springs wth the isolators still in. (don't k now why anyone would want to go without the isolatora and get all the moise just to gain less than a 1/2"). I have strange adjustable struts up front and Monroe sensatrac shocks out back. Handles great, ride is kinda stiff as expected, but as good as a stock vette for road bumps etc. ALso had no problem with alignment without CC plates. Unless you're gonna do some serious autocross or something like that I would look for something that is lowered but not too stiff. Bumps get old, at least up in the snow belt wher ethe roads are shit.

[1_nice_03_gt]

you can get camber bolts if you dont go more then 1.5"

[ReverendDexter]

FWIW, I run both CC plates *and* camber bolts, and both are maxed out.

I don't expect that many people drive their cars here they way I do, though, at least none that are stupid like me and do it with relatively stock front suspension, hahaha.

[00redgt]

Originally Posted by PRODUCTIONMAN my car is lowered about 1-1/4" all around with H & R springs wth the isolators still in. (don't k now why anyone would want to go without the isolatora and get all the moise just to gain less than a 1/2"). I have strange adjustable struts up front and Monroe sensatrac shocks out back. Handles great, ride is kinda stiff as expected, but as good as a stock vette for road bumps etc. ALso had no problem with alignment without CC plates. Unless you're gonna do some serious autocross or something like that I would look for something that is lowered but not too stiff. Bumps get old, at least up in the snow belt wher ethe roads are shit.

i have no noise without my isolators after 4 years.no prob

[Macunicorn]

Originally Posted by 00redgt i have no noise without my isolators after 4 years.no prob

Same with me as well. I highly recommend H&R springs.

[bullitt ak]

why cant the car be aligned properly when its been lowered? without cc plates?

[bullitt ak]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Now, if you care about handling, this is a whole huge bag of worms that you're about to open. It's not bad in the rear, lowering doesn't muck with geometry at all. But up front? You're lowering your front roll center even lower than it already is, your steering geometry gets even more wonky, and you get nasty dynamic negative camber loss requiring GOBS of static negative camber if you want any cornering grip.

so are you saying that if i have my car aligned at a shop to their specs it would not handle right?

[ReverendDexter]

Depends on how you define handling "right". With factory specs, it'l drive straight and turn predictably, but if you push your car in the twisties, you'll find you've actually reduced your front grip.

[RZNCAIN]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Depends on how you define handling "right". With factory specs, it'l drive straight and turn predictably, but if you push your car in the twisties, you'll find you've actually reduced your front grip.

Would you just buy a newer Mustang already or go back to the 5.0 section where all the rest of those guys hide!

[Macunicorn]

Originally Posted by bullitt ak why cant the car be aligned properly when its been lowered? without cc plates?

Depends on how much you lower it. If you lower it to much you won't be able to get proper camber adjustments from the stock plates. Besides with CC plates you be able to adjust your castor to increase steering.

[doubleohvert]

if your on a tight budget and just want a better looking/ better handling ride I'd go with the eibach pro plus kit. its around $800 (doesnt include cc plates) but you get springs, struts/shocks, and sway bars. If you have a little extra to spend go I'd go with the MM sport package, its around $1100, but includes CC plates, springs, isolators, and bilsten struts/shocks. and if you are leaning towards a better handling car and can afford $1500, id pick up the MM sport box instead. If i had it all to do over again, I would have went with option #3 to begin with.