5.0 Stroker or 4.6 for Turbo? - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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5.0 Stroker or 4.6 for Turbo?

What the title says... what would be better and why?



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post #2 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 09:56 PM
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Stick with a 4.6 its cheaper. Also the motor is square with the stock stroke.


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post #3 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm getting forged internals, and the stroker isn't really that much more, and I read that a stroker would help a turbo spool faster, but might also limit how fast it can spool? Idk, thats why I'm asking...



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post #4 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:02 PM
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It may help slightly with spool but a good turbo grind cam will also help. I would stick to stock stroke and if you want to go bigger go bigger bore like the boss block.


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post #5 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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I currently have a teksid block and 04 mach one heads with stock cams



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post #6 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Rotating assembly is next on the list



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post #7 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:11 PM
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I currently have a teksid block and 04 mach one heads with stock cams
I would deff send those heads off and get bronze guides installed along with the even flow head cooling mod


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post #8 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Bronze valve guides on my list... Whats the even flow cooling mod?



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post #9 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:17 PM
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It helps keep the heat of the 7-8 cylanders by routing water out the back of the head to the radiator line.


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post #10 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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It helps keep the heat of the 7-8 cylanders by routing water out the back of the head to the radiator line.
How much work is involved in that? And is there a link or a how-to for that?



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post #11 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:19 PM
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Lethal Performance GEN 2 Head Cooling Mod [LP-GEN2COOLINGKIT] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs

It an easy install. You knock out the freeze plug on the back of the head and install a bung and run a coolant line to the radiator line


bone stock from the factory!
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post #12 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 10:47 PM
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I'd say 5.4 or 4.6.

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post #13 of 33 Old September 12th, 2011, 11:20 PM
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Id rock a 5.0 stroker with a turbo.


853rwhp @ 23psi
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post #14 of 33 Old September 13th, 2011, 12:04 AM
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I tossed around the idea of a 5.0 stroker, will all come down to cost for me. ModMax sells a nice stroker kit for under 2k, not sure what power youre trying to push but the one I'm talking about is good for up to 550hp. It didnt state if it was fwhp or rwhp however.

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post #15 of 33 Old September 13th, 2011, 12:12 AM
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MMR's 5.3L Stroker kit is badass. That guy BobNasty made 393rwhp all motor with that stroker kit, TFS heads, and MHS cams. Some food for thought.


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post #16 of 33 Old September 13th, 2011, 12:13 AM
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fwhp = front wheel horse power

bhp = break horsepower (the correct term) sorry it drives me nuts.

Also i would buy any rotating assembly thats not good for atleast 700. Cause really if your gonna spend the kind of coin why buy something that can only push a little past stock?


853rwhp @ 23psi
75mm Turbo 5.4 swap E85
#turbo2v

10.11 @ 138mph STOCK LONGBLOCK
9.20 @ 138 on 16psi - New Longblock /w Powerglide

www.JPCracing.com 410-729-0005 ext. 11

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post #17 of 33 Old September 13th, 2011, 12:42 AM
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I wouldn't either, just saying, for the price, its not bad for someone not looking to break the bank on a stroker kit.

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post #18 of 33 Old September 13th, 2011, 12:50 AM
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MMR Mod 900 forged stroker kit is good for 900+HP. They'll even notch the pistons for an aggressive cam for a little extra.

You'll eventually run into a dead end going all motor using the 4.6, but if you do a forged rotating assembly, you always have the security there for FI down the road.

Personally, I would go forged stroker, enjoy the "all motor" bragging rights, once you get tired of that, go FI.

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post #19 of 33 Old September 13th, 2011, 08:16 AM
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stay 4.6 and just go 20 over....no need to spend money on a stroker...if it would have helped i would have went with 1...all the big name builders talked me out of it because its not needed...your also going 4v so spool would be quick anyway..just do the compression 9:1-9:5......and there is no such thing as slow spooling anymore thanks to billet wheel turbos and since your going 4v there is no need to notch the pistons because there is no need for cams needed that big in a 4v turbo setup anyway..

and yes do the head cooling mod....

a bunch of shit lol..
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post #20 of 33 Old September 13th, 2011, 09:24 AM
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Yeah, it's not needed, but how could he not benefit from it? I mean, if you look at a forged rotating assembly, and a stroker kit (which is also forged), they're not far from the same price. So, why not?

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