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#1 |
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Enthusiast
2000 Mustang GT Super'ed
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 657
![]() iTrader: 2 reviews
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Door Window Glass Separated from Bracket / Need Glue Advice
First, I have read at least 10 threads on this issue. I know they are out there. My problem is no one has specifically identified the right glue/adhesive and/or technique so I can complete the repair. The issue caused my window to roll to high so that it hits the roof when closing the door.
I have re-glued this thing twice now, and they both failed fairly quickly. I tried to find the right product from other threads with no help. Thanks!
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![]() Saleen Series II 377whp/390wtq, Chicane I/C, Mosaleen Pulley, Fidanza FW, Spec Stage 2, Alum Driveshaft, BBK Headers, Steeda Exhaust, TruTrac 31 Spline, 3.55s, 315s, MM FLSCs, Rear LCAs, MGW Shifter, Eibach Pro, X2 Balljoints, Cobra Brakes, SS Lines. Last edited by jonwrong; October 10th, 2011 at 08:40 PM. |
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#2 |
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Regular
2001 Mustang GT Vert
12.524@111.12
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 53
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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I tried several types of epoxy without success. Finally I took some thin wire and wrapped it around the regulator and a metal tab that is on the window close to where it sits on the regulator. Then tightened tight with pliers. It has held up fine for over two years. If you think that sounds fishy you could always try some type of strong slow curing epoxy and use the wire to hold it in place long enough for it to cure completely. The wire worked good enough for me, it just makes an tiny clank when it rolls up, so not factory perfect.
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#3 |
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Abyssinian of AX
'02 Saleen
19.34@42.259
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Marin County
Posts: 7,269
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OK..... I just did this repair a month or so ago
![]() The bracket is a funky one and ALL the pressure is placed on the rear of it, while the only support is way up on the other end. I ended up using 3 small bolts/nuts and drilled through the braket and to the small bracket behind it. The circumference of the screws I installed is only about 1.5" or so, but is very strong considering the way it had to be done. If you have seen these brackets up close, you will be able to figure it out. If not, there is no possible way I can explain it better. Jazzer
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#4 | |
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Enthusiast
2000 Mustang GT Super'ed
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 657
![]() iTrader: 2 reviews
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Again, where are these bolts you speak of? I don't see anywhere to do that other than to the bracket itself possibly.
__________________
![]() Saleen Series II 377whp/390wtq, Chicane I/C, Mosaleen Pulley, Fidanza FW, Spec Stage 2, Alum Driveshaft, BBK Headers, Steeda Exhaust, TruTrac 31 Spline, 3.55s, 315s, MM FLSCs, Rear LCAs, MGW Shifter, Eibach Pro, X2 Balljoints, Cobra Brakes, SS Lines. Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; October 12th, 2011 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Tried to get tricky, didn't work :( |
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#5 |
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Abyssinian of AX
'02 Saleen
19.34@42.259
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Marin County
Posts: 7,269
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OK, I took your pic and added some dots to represent where to drill the small holes for new bolts/nuts and outlined the "stop" bracket for those to see what is happening here:
![]() The problem, for those reading this, is the bulk of the window is to the RH side of this bracket and moves up/down with the window. The "stop" is to the LH side (outlined in white) while the OEM pivot (hole where rivet connecting to window motor in the door) was) is to the RH side of bracket. When the window is rolled up, the "stop" hits a stationary tab in the door and ends up pulling on the adheasive holding the window in the groove running side to side along the top of the bracket (See "A"). This happens, because the motor is still rolling up (assuming you don't let go of switch yet) and the entire bracket pivots on the single hole over on the RH side. At this point, the point at which the rivet is connected to the motor, just keeps traveling upward, as the window is ripped out of the adheasive . This is why the window hits the roof and what mine did. I had to be careful NOT to roll the window up all the way until I fixed it. I ended up installing the small bolts where the white dots are and re-glued the window with silicone adheasive. The drivers side did not have this issue.... YET!, so I went ahead and opened it up and installed three bolts/nuts in the exact same way.Those three little bolts add shear strength to the bolster the single rivet and works perfectly ![]() Jazzer
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![]() Un-Official Suspension Guide | Choosing a new tire | Brakes upgrade ~ Speeding up slowing down | T-3650 ~ T-56 swap | Tire and Wheel Fitment Guide | The Kitty makes front page news Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; October 12th, 2011 at 07:59 PM. |
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#6 |
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Regular
2001 mustang gt
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 104
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Lol i have same problem i i used this white rubber cement its like 4$ at walmart they are the long tubes where u use a gune to press the paste out
Its been 3 months and everything seems to hold |
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#7 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
04 mustang gt
7.21 @ 98
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: upstate sc
Posts: 5,923
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i just did this today on my 94gt. the bracket had come off and so the back of the window was just loose and flopping...
i just cleaned it real good and used JB weld to hold it on lol...we shall see how it holds. i used the JB weld, rolled the window up a few minutes later and will leave it rolled up for a couple days so it can dry super good
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#8 |
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Enthusiast
2000 Mustang GT Super'ed
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 657
![]() iTrader: 2 reviews
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Thanks for the great advice Jazzer.
__________________
![]() Saleen Series II 377whp/390wtq, Chicane I/C, Mosaleen Pulley, Fidanza FW, Spec Stage 2, Alum Driveshaft, BBK Headers, Steeda Exhaust, TruTrac 31 Spline, 3.55s, 315s, MM FLSCs, Rear LCAs, MGW Shifter, Eibach Pro, X2 Balljoints, Cobra Brakes, SS Lines. |
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#9 |
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Enthusiast
2000 Mustang GT Super'ed
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 657
![]() iTrader: 2 reviews
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I have had more of an opportunity to comment after completing the repair and driving around for a few days. Jazzer's fix is 100% the only way to fix this permanently. I used three 2.5mmx12mm bolts and nuts with a washer on each side. I used blue loctite as well.
To glue the window, I used E-6000 available at Michel's craft store and most super Wal-marts. If you google gluing glass to metal, it is highly recommended. And it did the job. This is the third time I have glue this, and the only one that lasted more than 6 roll-ups. I hope others find this thread in the future and can avoid the headache.
__________________
![]() Saleen Series II 377whp/390wtq, Chicane I/C, Mosaleen Pulley, Fidanza FW, Spec Stage 2, Alum Driveshaft, BBK Headers, Steeda Exhaust, TruTrac 31 Spline, 3.55s, 315s, MM FLSCs, Rear LCAs, MGW Shifter, Eibach Pro, X2 Balljoints, Cobra Brakes, SS Lines. |
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#10 |
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Abyssinian of AX
'02 Saleen
19.34@42.259
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Marin County
Posts: 7,269
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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![]() Happy to help ![]() Jazzer
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#11 |
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Enthusiast
2000 Mustang GT Super'ed
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 657
![]() iTrader: 2 reviews
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E6000 and screws still holding strong!
__________________
![]() Saleen Series II 377whp/390wtq, Chicane I/C, Mosaleen Pulley, Fidanza FW, Spec Stage 2, Alum Driveshaft, BBK Headers, Steeda Exhaust, TruTrac 31 Spline, 3.55s, 315s, MM FLSCs, Rear LCAs, MGW Shifter, Eibach Pro, X2 Balljoints, Cobra Brakes, SS Lines. |
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