[BaznastyDave]

I think mine is only like 19 on motor and 18* on spray, its pretty safe.

[Nitmare67]

Normally i set them up on a 2v with 23-24 degrees max wot timing. 19-21 on the bottle.

[bottled2v]

nitmare if I send you my n/a file can you modify it down some for n/a and then make a copy and turn the timing down more for spray?

with the commando can you actually modify your shift points? that's the biggest dislike I have about this thing. stock the car shifts around 5600, so i told the tuner to shift 200rpm later(5800) and it'd shift at over 6k. so i turned it down to 100rpm over stock and it'd shift at 55/5600. I was thinking of setting it up to shift at mph not rpm because i hate having to manually shift this thing.

[bottled2v]

also, I remember hearing that too much timing can hurt you power wise, so would running 5+ degrees over what i should be at be hurting power?

[Cathedral]

edit. nevermind.

[bottled2v]

Originally Posted by Cathedral I'm no expert, but from a laymans perspective, wouldn't you always want your nitrous timing to be less than n/a? Since the nitrous burns much faster, you'd want your timing to be 19-20 on the juice. Go too high and you risk detonation. I'm not saying you're close to that point, but wouldn't you always want your timing for nitrous to be less than your n/a? Same with boost.

yes you're correct. and i thought my timing was lower. on my tuner it asks if it's n/a nitrous or boosted. i selected nitrous and a 125 shot assuming it would pull 5* out from what it would n/a. but i guess i was wrong.

[Cathedral]

Originally Posted by bottled2v yes you're correct. and i thought my timing was lower. on my tuner it asks if it's n/a nitrous or boosted. i selected nitrous and a 125 shot assuming it would pull 5* out from what it would n/a. but i guess i was wrong.

Damn you managed to get my quote before I deleted it. I thought you had more timing for your nitrous and less on the na. Then I re-read your post and realized I was

However, you're reading your WOT timing at 60* IAT, without actually spraying. If you were spraying, your IAT would be lower, and your timing would advance.

Then again, if you have a wet system, that doesn't matter does it.

EDIT: this is just me being a layman. I don't have any actual experience in this, I'm just throwing out ideas so don't take my word for anything.

[bottled2v]

it is a wet system, i dont know what kind of effects it would have on the iats personally.

[ytngt]

Originally Posted by bottled2v it is a wet system, i dont know what kind of effects it would have on the iats personally.

It should have no effect on iats. That is because the injection point should be downstream of the iat/maf.

[bottled2v]

yeah it is downstream. that's why i was confused as to why spraying it would cool it down.

[Cathedral]

With a dry system, the nitrous is injected upstream of the maf, so the maf/iat counters for the colder/denser air and gives more fuel, as well as adjusts timing. With a wet system, the fuel is already mixed in and is downstream of the iat. All I meant was that if you had a dry system, and weren't spraying, your IAT wouldn't adjust and so it wouldn't retard your timing, so you would have the numbers you're looking at. I guess all the confusion could have been avoided had I just asked, "do you have a wet or dry sytem?" Sorry.

[ytngt]

Originally Posted by Cathedral With a dry system, the nitrous is injected upstream of the maf, so the maf/iat counters for the colder/denser air and gives more fuel, as well as adjusts timing. With a wet system, the fuel is already mixed in and is downstream of the iat. All I meant was that if you had a dry system, and weren't spraying, your IAT wouldn't adjust and so it wouldn't retard your timing, so you would have the numbers you're looking at. I guess all the confusion could have been avoided had I just asked, "do you have a wet or dry sytem?" Sorry.

Not completely true...

A (IMO properly designed) dry system is injected after the maf. The tune is setup to add your enrichment fuel several hundred rpm before the window switch and up.

Spraying nitrous directly into/on the maf is a very shady way of getting enrichment fuel, but some do it this way.

[Nitmare67]

Pm sent

[Nitmare67]

Originally Posted by bottled2v also, I remember hearing that too much timing can hurt you power wise, so would running 5+ degrees over what i should be at be hurting power?

Running too much timing is bad for alot of reasons. Depending on the year of the mustang too it may or may not have knock sensors. If it does and you run too much timing the knock sensors take it all out and more which isnt productive. I sent you a PM also.

Send me the following info to my email.

Your stock PCM tune file, the N/A tune your running.

All of the mods your vehicle has done to it.

I will set you up with a good n/a tune and a nitrous tune. Its on the house.

[bottled2v]

i will deff be sending you those files once i get home later, and the help is greatly appreciated.

[Cathedral]

edit: damn, I am a retard. posted here when I meant to make a new thread. wow. feel free to neg rep me

[NeverEnuff]

Originally Posted by Nitmare67 Its the spark borderline table. There really is 50 degrees of spark advance under some of those load settings. Thats where your fuel economy comes from. There is also an MBT table and depending on the ECU and vehicle it will or will not be used. Many vehicles use both tables and default to the lower spark advance between the two tables. In those cases you will usually find the ECU follows the MBT table under part throttle settings and the spark borderline table under WOT settings. You will also find on GM and some others borderline spark table, knock table and MBT table. The MBT table is also used for torque calculation to determine how close the engine is running to spark for peak torque

Yes I get that. But I have also noticed that when I upped my timing in the BKT that it doesn't increase at all until I increase my values in the MAST (Max allowed). Some cars use the MBT as the MAST, and I have to adjust that by using all 50s, hense making it useless, so I can run the timing I want on the vehicle, without having to worry about the MAST capping the spark off cause of a number rather than a IAT or ECT sensor reading like its supposed to work.