ProCharger P1SC Questions
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Old November 7th, 2011, 01:35 PM   #1
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ProCharger P1SC Questions


Hey guys, just purchased a ProCharger P1SC and all of the accompanying components. Have a few questions for you more knowledgeable guys. I have all the bolt-ons minus headers and I'm looking for 400 at the wheels through a 5 speed. (First of all is this a realistic expectation for a P1SC on a stock motor?)

-How much difference is there between the 2 core and 3 core intercoolers in terms of power/grunt?

-Currently have a 3.7 pulley, which pulley do I need to achieve 400 and stay at a safe boost level for my engine? Currently has 67k miles on the clock. I'm in Columbus, so 900ft elevation.

-I will be purchasing a Tial 50mm blow-off valve to replace the ProCharger bypass valve, is the -3psi spring the correct one I need?

-I currently have 4.10 gears and will probably step down. Are 3.73s still a bit steep or should I be looking at 3.55s?


Thanks!
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Old November 7th, 2011, 01:52 PM   #2
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Is keep the 4.10s to be honest. I miss mine. i have 3.73s now, but i may go back to 4.10s. The tial with the -3 hot pink spring will work. For boost, 10-11psi will be plenty safe. And the 3 core intercooler is much better and a lot more efficient. Cool better and flows a lot better. I think a 3.4 pulley would be good. But procharger guys will have to answer that.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 02:05 PM   #3
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I made ~375whp with a 3.7 inch 3 core setup with all the regular bolts on accept headers through an auto.

ATI recommends not going over 8lbs of boost due to the stock thin piston ringlands not being able to hold up.

Go with the 3 core. You can compensate for loss of boost by pullying down as you won't be able to hit the limit on spinning the blower with the stock motor.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 02:32 PM   #4
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Id stick with the 3.7 pulley. Youd be safer to wait and add mild blower cams. With nearly 400hp and 4.10s your have plenty of power/wheel spinning ability.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 02:35 PM   #5
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I have a 3.4 pulley on my p1sc with a cx racing 3 core i/c. I am making 386 whp at 11lbs of boost. I have long tube headers tho. The dyno tune was in the middle of a GA summer too.

Also, I have 373 gears and I love them. I never had 410s tho, so I can't compare the 2. Just keep the 410s then later switch them if you don't like it. Might as well just try them out.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 02:40 PM   #6
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Id keep it at 9-10psi, the 3.7 might get ya the psi you need for 400rwhp, maybe a 3.4 if not. Im 5000+ ft and it take a 3.2 pulley for me to hit 10psi with my P1SC. Id just use the intercooler you have for now, the 3core procharger one can be pretty spendy but the 2 core should be able to get ya where you want. I dont know about the aftermarket bov, Im still running the Procharger valve. And Id try it out with your 4.10's and see how ya like it, the only problem I could think of is if you drag it in the 1/4mi you may run outta gear up top and have to shift into 5th before the finish line.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 03:15 PM   #7
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8psi is wimpy. Im at 10-11psi on this cool weather. Is go to 12 in a heartbeat
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Old November 7th, 2011, 04:32 PM   #8
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Thanks guys! Reps to all

Oops, except for you Shaun, seems like I need to spread the love first. You get a hug though
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Old November 7th, 2011, 06:17 PM   #9
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Ill be amazed if you can even make 400 on that elevation. stay with 410s. Ive trapped from 113-123 and was still fine with proper tire setup.
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Old November 7th, 2011, 06:30 PM   #10
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Lol its all good jerry. But really keep the 4.10s unless you like top end a lot. Only thing i didn't like was it was pulling hard but ran outta gear at 120
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Old November 7th, 2011, 07:17 PM   #11
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If only I break 390 with my setup I'll be happy.
Good luck man
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Old November 14th, 2011, 11:17 AM   #12
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just curious are you guys auto or manual? I've got 4.10s in my auto, and debating on whether or not I want to go to 3.73s
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Old November 14th, 2011, 12:25 PM   #13
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I'm at your same elevation. My car makes 8.9 psi with a 3.7" pulley at 6000 rpms. If I run it to 6200 rpms, its 9.5 psi. There are a lot of variables but ProCharger says the general rule of thumb is you gain 1 psi with every 1/10" smaller pulley.

I'm running a standard P1SC with a 3-core intercooler and standard ProCharger BOV. It works fine, I see no sense in changing it. I have long-tubes and a catted x-pipe but I saw no gains from them. Some people get maybe 10 rwhp. If you're running an off-road mid-pipe you will have seen more gains from your exhaust than I did. I also have an electric water pump which adds a little. My peak rwhp is 396 (STD) or 383 (SAE) depending upon which correction you want to use. On that particular day the raw number was 388. I had one dyno put it at 370 (SAE) rwhp. There seems to be a lot of variation between dynos.

You might try the 3.7" pulley to see what you get or you could spend $90 for a 3.6" pulley. That should put you at 10 psi and close to 400 rwhp.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 01:00 PM   #14
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What electric pump are you running? I'm considering one for my new motor to get some of the belt driven stuff off of the Innovators West 10% OD Damper. I'm planning at a least to use the Stewart water pump and underdrive the alternator. You cant underdrive the water pump due to the damper already being larger. I was so paranoid about oil pump breakage I set the endplay up perfect, used a billet geared pump, IW damper..... If I break an oil pump I'm going to shoot myself in the dick
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Old November 14th, 2011, 01:07 PM   #15
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I'm running a Stewart water pump, didn't notice any difference but it's supposed to add free up a free horses from being more efficient than the stock water pump.

Eagle, where would I buy a pulley for $90? Thanks!
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Old November 14th, 2011, 04:10 PM   #16
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You can get the pulleys at House of Boost. I've never bought anything from them but other members have.
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Nitmare, I'm running a Meizere electric water pump. I've had good luck with it. I driven it 76,000 miles so far. The only problem I had was when I blew the cheap $8.95 relay that powers the water pump. It spewed anti-freeze out the radiator cap and all over the interstate. I've had good luck with the relay that's in it but I carry an extra on in the glove box just in case. It's cheap insurance. Some people wire it without the relay but I don't know what wire they are tapping into.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 06:26 PM   #17
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Ya I would definitely run a dedicated power source and switch the control side of the relay off the key. Its not a power mod for me but more like one thing not to worry about if I ever break another belt. I snapped a belt and tensioner once and that sucks....
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Old November 14th, 2011, 06:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by asiansensation78 View Post
I'm running a Stewart water pump, didn't notice any difference but it's supposed to add free up a free horses from being more efficient than the stock water pump.

Eagle, where would I buy a pulley for $90? Thanks!
Check ebay too. I see a ton of vortech pulleys on there for under 60 to the door. I would have put a 3.33 on my car along time ago if it wouldnt void my 3 year warranty.... so i just put an OD damper. Fuck em. Besides going larger on the damper is actually really nice because it allows you more boost without the belt slip problems of a tiny pulley
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Old November 14th, 2011, 07:34 PM   #19
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Thanks the the link Eagle! Btw Nitmare, I'll check ebay as well, but Vortech pulleys won't fit Procharger since Procharger pulleys have 2 key notches, where as Vortech only has one. So ProCharger pulleys can be used on Vortech, but not vice versa.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 08:41 PM   #20
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I didnt mean to put a vortech pulley on it.... I meant to search for a pro charger pulley. They have alot of vortech, probably pro charger too.
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