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Old November 8th, 2011, 07:13 PM   #1
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car problems


I noticed my car did this the other night when my exhaust clogged blew a gasket not really sure whats wrong with it. When I down shift my car shuttters and makes a stalling noise. I also noticed my car is idles at 1g. it takes it awhile to idle back down when i take car out of gear (sometimes). My car always sound weird during down shift. My motor sounds weird with the clutch disengaged sometimes. To make the motor sound normal i have to push clutch in. I also noticed a ticking noise but not extremely loud. Its hard to get third gear in sometimes and fifth gear sometimes makes me think i need some gear oil maybe? This all happen when i drive car twenty mins or more some morning none of this is going on besides the down shifting sound. That has happen before my new exhaust problem ...advance checked my car and no codes other then exhaust leak
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Old November 9th, 2011, 01:56 AM   #2
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bump for op
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Old November 9th, 2011, 10:20 AM   #3
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Sounds to me like you have a number of issues. You could have a leaking manifold/header gasket (whichever you have) giving you noise from the exhaust, or a bad seal at the collector area. The ticking is pretty common. These are loud engines. The lash adjusters can make noise, but the ticking could also be coming from an exhaust leak. As far as your trans, you should probably service it with some new synchromesh and see if that helps.
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Old November 9th, 2011, 01:21 PM   #4
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new synchromesh? how does that cost to do? I took the stang to 3 shops. My converters are bad and my mufflers are broke(baffel). So there wanting 500-600 to fix my exhaust.The worst noise is comng from the mufflers. said that my driver converter is heating up to 600 f..I just don't see how this all broke in one night. Could i just replace mufflers and be ok?
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Old November 9th, 2011, 01:42 PM   #5
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If your converters are clogged it will make your car run like shit. You live in FL so you don't need to pass emissions. Buy yourself a catless x or h pipe and put it in there. I bet that will solve a lot of your problems.

As for the synchromesh, go to the ford dealer, buy 4 quarts of it, drain your trans, and put in 3.2 qts of synchromesh. Done.
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Old November 9th, 2011, 01:43 PM   #6
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When you remove your cats you will get a check engine light. You can turn it off with a handheld tuner or get MIL eliminators.
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Old November 9th, 2011, 02:01 PM   #7
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a guy told me that my true dual was better then h pipe? so, could i keep what i got lose the cats? and maybe put new resernators? would it sound better with out cats? When i ask that i mean better then my exhaust before these issues?
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Old November 9th, 2011, 02:22 PM   #8
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You want some type of crossover with these engines, either x or h. You could keep what you have and just lose the cats, but good luck finding an exhaust shop that would do that for you.

And yes, it will sound a lot better without cats
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Old November 9th, 2011, 02:27 PM   #9
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yea i know what you mean about finding a shop to do that. so put x pipe in its place? oh my buddy wants to get exhaust for his mustang ..its a v6 could he get same set up?
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Old November 9th, 2011, 02:40 PM   #10
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Call summit and ask them about your buddy's v6. I don't know anything about them
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Old November 9th, 2011, 02:46 PM   #11
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ok thanks alot for your time
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Old November 9th, 2011, 03:39 PM   #12
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Most of the time a cat failure is a result of something else. Usually the engine is not burning all the fuel, the fuel gets into the cat and the cat does what it was intended to it cataylsts, just it has more fuel to burn so it overheats. Concerns would be a bad plug,wire or coil or a sticking injector.
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Old November 10th, 2011, 11:40 PM   #13
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Thanks Dirty...how can i check all that myself? sticking injector?? is that a easy fix?
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Old November 14th, 2011, 12:26 AM   #14
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Try pulling the plugs and looking for one that is washed down clean. It will be very different from the rest. Changing injectors is about as simple of a repair on these cars as you will find. If that is the problem change them al and replace the fuel filter. Check the pressure too to make sure the regulator is working properly. Specs will vary car to car and year to year but it should be around 30-45 at idle and will raise to 35-60 when you take the hose off the regulator. Watching for change is the key.
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