[nicksecondaddress]

Originally Posted by NeverEnuff Ok. Well Ill just say that if I had a shop and knew the clearances...id run more than .020-.030. I would expect Nick to do the same. Thats all.

I make it very public that this cam fits with 030-035 I found that clearance to work 100% of the time on these motors, and I have seen 0.015" used in NMRA racing turning 8000+RPM. Now a pushrod motor with all the hysteresis and added pushrod/lifter/active rocker weight I would want double to triple the clearance.

Not only have I sold a bunch of these cams with no PTV issues until now, I degree most of them on my test bench and you never have you heard of someone commenting on any of my cams making the infamous "sewing machine sound"

[NeverEnuff]

^ I never said that it wouldn't clear...or run with .030-.035...Ive known shops to do this. But to cover my butt and others, I wouldn't recommend that low of a ICL and PTV Clearance...thats all.

Also, idk how ofter NMRA guys go through their motor...but I know its more than most of us on a normal type budget. They can afford to touch a piston here, or mess up a motor there. To me. The added insurance of PTV clearance, at the cost of a few low end/mid range TQ and or HP is worth it to me. I didn't spend all the money I did on my motor to be destroyed by getting a little greedy on the cam centerline. Same reason why I keep my tunes on the safe side...

And for some future info. I have had a comp 262 motor in my garage with PTV. It was using cloyes NON adj gears, but he did have PTVC. ICL I believe was in the 102* range. Pretty crazy. Granted, I have never seen a stock gear that low, but it could happen. Lowest I believe I have seen in 105-106...and a 262 would still clear at that.

Bottom line....030" or .035 or .060"....don't trust ANY cam gear and ALWAYS degree yours cams. If you don't know how, or don't want to learn how. Then take it to competent mechanic...

[Graham052]

Thanks for all of the replies Nick.
Using a piston stop to check TDC I set the motor near BDC and spun it both directions until it hit the stop, re-center the degree wheel so the values are the exact same on both sides of TDC. This should put me right in the center of the dwell shouldnt it?
If you have a minute I'd like to get the thickness of a stock PI head from you so I can measure mine and make sure it has not been decked for some odd reason.

[Graham052]

Anyone have a digital caliper or micrometer that could measure the thickness of their PI head so I can be sure my heads are not decked. They are of an F150 so I dont have any reason to believe they are but supposedly there is no other explanation...

[NeverEnuff]

What are you using for a lifter to check this?

[Graham052]

adjustable lifter

[NeverEnuff]

^ Roger. Just checking. lol.

[nicksecondaddress]

Originally Posted by Graham052 Thanks for all of the replies Nick. Using a piston stop to check TDC I set the motor near BDC and spun it both directions until it hit the stop, re-center the degree wheel so the values are the exact same on both sides of TDC. This should put me right in the center of the dwell shouldnt it? If you have a minute I'd like to get the thickness of a stock PI head from you so I can measure mine and make sure it has not been decked for some odd reason.

Hard to say to be honest, the problem with a piston stop on the 2V head is the piston is rocking in the bore all over the place where the stop is going to hit. On a 4V head since you are hitting it right near the middle its more accurate there. I tried a couple times to degree a 2V in car with a piston stop and with a dial indicator with a long extension to set TDC, I could never repeat my numbers to be honest with the heads on the car, which is how I came up with the idea for a blueprint motor on a stand to do the degree work on.

Stock PI head thickness is ~5.320" as measured from the valve cover edge to the deck surface.

[nicksecondaddress]

Originally Posted by Graham052 Anyone have a digital caliper or micrometer that could measure the thickness of their PI head so I can be sure my heads are not decked. They are of an F150 so I dont have any reason to believe they are but supposedly there is no other explanation...

See if you can repeat your numbers if you tore everything down and did it all over again. Its a ton of work in car, but like I said I never could do it myself to where I was 100% satisfied with it. If you wanted to send your cams here I would degree them for free just to see what we find in comparison.

[Graham052]

I just bought a new set of cam bolts and chain guides from your site because my guides are a little worn and I torqued the cam bolts a couple of times when I thought I had them set correctly. So I will check my head thickness and start over at square one and see what I get... I may take you up on that offer. I'll let you know if I get different readings on round 2.

[NeverEnuff]

The way I did it was put a checker spring on the intake valve...and rotate the motor up and let the piston push the valve up to get close...not the most accurate as nick said, but it works and being that the valve touches the piston more towards the pin than where the piston stop or a dial indicator ext would...I trust it more.

[nickmckinney]

Originally Posted by NeverEnuff The way I did it was put a checker spring on the intake valve...and rotate the motor up and let the piston push the valve up to get close...not the most accurate as nick said, but it works and being that the valve touches the piston more towards the pin than where the piston stop or a dial indicator ext would...I trust it more.

Thats a cool trick, me likey

BTW - my first post as nickmckinney, only been 2 years give or take