[Orange2V]

Awesome info NeverEnuff but I think over kill is my middle name. lol

I would do what you did with a more race specific car where the car is specifically a "tool" to get a specific job done. My car is all about the project/build and all the trick parts I can afford just to make it bad ass.

Building cars to me is more therapy and expression than anything else. Everyone does their car different.

Aluminum teksid MMR 900SE was my choice without too much worry about the money. It's just bad ass


My goal is the harder you look at my car the more bad ass is becomes. Its a 2V.... hey the blocks aluminum. Its a vortec cetri super charger.... damn its a YSI. etc

[MATT02GT]

Interesting thread, I just picked up a teskid block myself and have been debating on piecing together some internals or just ship it somewhere to be built.

[Orange2V]

Originally Posted by MATT02GT Interesting thread, I just picked up a teskid block myself and have been debating on piecing together some internals or just ship it somewhere to be built.

The best way with that block is to send it out. The line honing alone brings challenges with the block being aluminum and the main caps being steel. The two metals cut different. A local shop can screw it up pretty easy as I was told by several local shops. Most places don't carry the machines needed for these blocks. A very reputable local mustang shop (JPC) sends their engines all the way to chicago (from Maryland). That pretty much told me I should just stop shopping around for local machine shops.

I was going to order a eagle rotating assembly and have the block done locally and assemble it myself. One builder said most aftermarket cranks come a bit on the fat side and I could spend tons of time and money chasing clearances. What do you do then??? Switch thru a ton of bearings? Have the crank you just bought polished down? I think you can imagine the head ache...

I called MMR and told them what I had and the response was "yeah, and... How much power do you want?".

This is a bit different from the typical small block stuff I am used to dealing with. I could do one of those in an afternoon....

[MATT02GT]

yea sounds like I may have to look into mmr, Im thinking fully forged along with some TrickFlow heads and then see what my lil P1SC can spin lol

[Orange2V]

Originally Posted by MATT02GT yea sounds like I may have to look into mmr, Im thinking fully forged along with some TrickFlow heads and then see what my lil P1SC can spin lol

I was thinking the same thing but it seems these heads will drive the useable RPM range so high the car will be a dog on the street and beg for 7000 RPM.


Here is what I learned.


ModularHeadShop when to use TFS heads

"NA 4.6 with an aftermarket bottom end, real intake manifold and HP peak at 7000RPM or higher. There are race cars with these heads unported shifting at 9000+RPM, that should tell you what these heads are capable of."

"Turbo or blower 4.6 with a real intake manifold, aftermarket bottom end, and 6600+ shift points. Remember we are getting 500-600RWHP with a blower and 600-700RWHP with a turbo with our PI heads on a 4.6 So for me to tell you to spend the extra for the TFS means you are wanting to surpass these numbers and stay 2V"

Just sone interesting info and it may save you some money. Keep in mind 700HP is above the pump gas level.

[NeverEnuff]

Ship it to me and Ill have my local machine shop machine it...and itll be done right. They did my big bore block and I watched it all...best shop in the country IMO...save for MP or Livernois....

www.KPERacing.com

Click through...Check his cars, builds, and I have a couple vids on there as well.