Shipping my block to MMR - How to package it up???
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Old November 13th, 2011, 09:06 PM   #1
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Shipping my block to MMR - How to package it up???


Can anyone tell me the best way to package up and ship my block to MMR? Its a bare aluminum Teksid. 80lbs tops.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 09:16 PM   #2
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build a small skid to match a good thick uhaul cardboard box then put the engine on the skid, band the block to the skid then slide the box over the engine band it to the skid then you good to go!! then send it freight.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 09:48 PM   #3
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Build a box out of lightweight 1x1s and plywood. Itll be far under the 150lb limit of UPS.

MMR huh?
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Old November 13th, 2011, 09:53 PM   #4
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When they sent my Shortlock it was just as I descibed above, but with a Ford Racing Cardboard box
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Old November 13th, 2011, 10:29 PM   #5
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I asked MMR on the phone and they gave me a not very specific answer. They did suggest UPS though. I still don't have a very direct idea of how to pack it up and it be safe. It's light enough to put in a cardboard box but heavy and sharp enough to punch thru a box pretty easy. What can I wrap it in so it doesn't bounce around in a box? I don't have access to any banding material.

I may just have to go into a local packing/shipping place tomorrow carrying a engine block and have them figure it out.
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Old November 13th, 2011, 10:38 PM   #6
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How to Ship an Engine Block | eHow.com

This helps because I didn't even know UPS would pick up from your house. That makes it more simple in itself.
https://wwwapps.ups.com/pickup/sched...sion&loc=en_US
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Old November 13th, 2011, 11:02 PM   #7
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Im just saying Freight is spendy. I shipped mine to MP and it cost about 110$
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Old November 13th, 2011, 11:03 PM   #8
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What is MMR doing to the motor? What you having done?
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Old November 13th, 2011, 11:44 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by NeverEnuff View Post
What is MMR doing to the motor? What you having done?

11-11-11 SUPER SALE for MODDED MUSTANG MEMBERS > 900SE FORGED SHORT BLOCK $2499!!!

900SE stroker using my block
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Old November 14th, 2011, 12:00 AM   #10
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Why the 'mini' stroker? Still haven't understood that?

Whats wrong with saving the cash and using a stock crank and forged rods and pistons? Way cheaper.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 12:27 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by NeverEnuff View Post
Why the 'mini' stroker? Still haven't understood that?

Whats wrong with saving the cash and using a stock crank and forged rods and pistons? Way cheaper.

My answer to why the stoker is, why not? It costs very little more if anything since you have to buy a crank anyway unless you're starting with a cobra that already has a forged crank. Why leave some easy displacement on the table?

By the time you piece together all that stuff and find a machine shop that can set it all up you will spend more than what you can buy a shortblock for. Not to mention the headache and gray hair along the way.

Nothing like making one call and being done with it for less than you would have spent if you did it yourself.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 12:41 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Orange2V View Post
My answer to why the stoker is, why not? It costs very little more if anything since you have to buy a crank anyway unless you're starting with a cobra that already has a forged crank. Why leave some easy displacement on the table?

By the time you piece together all that stuff and find a machine shop that can set it all up you will spend more than what you can buy a shortblock for. Not to mention the headache and gray hair along the way.

Nothing like making one call and being done with it for less than you would have spent if you did it yourself.
I went with a stock bore and stroke because I wanted a motor that could eaisly spun up at least 7K RPM. A stock stroke will produce less stress on the engine at high RPM, so there for be more durable. I knew I was going to use centrifuge SC and they perform their best at high RPM.

I bought a SB from MMR for the same reasons you are and after almost 5 years I'm glad I did. I have small budget and didn't want to spend 1.5K-2K on forged internals and have less than a perfect build. It showed up and took less than a day for me to install my top end and it has ran great since.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 12:50 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jivepepper View Post
I went with a stock bore and stroke because I wanted a motor that could eaisly spun up at least 7K RPM. A stock stroke will produce less stress on the engine at high RPM, so there for be more durable. I knew I was going to use centrifuge SC and they perform their best at high RPM.

I bought a SB from MMR for the same reasons you are and after almost 5 years I'm glad I did. I have small budget and didn't want to spend 1.5K-2K on forged internals and have less than a perfect build. It showed up and took less than a day for me to install my top end and it has ran great since.
That's all it cost you?!?!
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Old November 14th, 2011, 01:01 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by brody904 View Post
That's all it cost you?!?!


I meant if I would have bought the internals myself it would have been 1500-2000 dollars. Then if I would have done something wrong I would have just been out of that money, no warrenty ect. Not mentioning having to have things machined running down parts etc. I wanted some one with experience building modular race engines to build mine. if I was building a stock motor I would have did it myself.


After shipping it was 2900 for the mod 900. That's to my door in WV from CA. I bought the upgraded bolts fly cut pistons and their oil pump.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 01:04 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by jivepepper View Post
I meant if I would have bought the internals myself it would have been 1500-2000 dollars. Then if I would have done something wrong I would have just been out of that money, no warrenty ect. Not mentioning having to have things machined running down parts etc. I wanted some one with experience building modular race engines to build mine. if I was building a stock motor I would have did it myself.


After shipping it was 2900 for the mod 900. That's to my door in WV from CA. I bought the upgraded bolts fly cut pistons and their oil pump.
Hmm. This sounds like a good plan for next year.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 02:03 AM   #16
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when i got my motor from mmr they had it bolted down to a pallet threw the oil pan holes. then it had a slip on box on top.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 12:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
when i got my motor from mmr they had it bolted down to a pallet threw the oil pan holes. then it had a slip on box on top.
This is the best and safest way to do it. A alloy block can be shipped through UPS but they should be packaged well.

MMR

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Old November 14th, 2011, 02:24 PM   #18
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I kept the crate my ZZ4 came in for this very fact and when I need to send my block out I have that one in the bag! Definatly crate it up better to be safe than sorry...
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Old November 15th, 2011, 08:43 PM   #19
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I had about 1k in my turbo shortblock... did over 600rwhp on 15psi and I pushed it to 18psi....pulled it apart and looked great...still using the rods and crank in my big bore 8K rpm build.

stock crank
300 used manley rods
650 pistons and rings
150 main/rod bearings
Light hone from my machine shop...
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Old November 15th, 2011, 08:47 PM   #20
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Bottom line. 90+% of ppl spend way way way too much money on motors/shortblocks and engines cause ppl take advantage of them. I don't believe in it. Prob why when I open my shop, It will fail. Cause im honest...and would rather see cars go fast and ppl have fun and enjoy their car, other than just putting a dollar in my pocket.
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