Divison X 340lph fuel pump install
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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:50 AM   #1
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Divison X 340lph fuel pump install


So like the title says, I installed my Division X Stryker fuel pump this weekend. Lemme start by saying it IS NOT a direct replacement of the stock pump. It's about 1/2 inch taller so some modification is in order.

First off, you need to remove the top of the basket and (I used a dremel) cut the round part that the fuel pump nestles in about 3/8 to 1/2 inch.


Next I removed the area of the basket just below where the fuel pump filter sits to allow constant fuel flow. Doing this will eliminate the function of the basket so you don't want to go racing around with 1/4 tank of gas because you might have the fuel slosh away from the filter and have momentary fuel starvation (very bad if you're spraying it).


Then you can put the new fuel pump in with the supplied filter attached to it.


I forgot to take a picture of it once I got it back together so I'll just try to explain the other mod I did. With the basket back together with the new fuel pump in, instead of putting the stock line on I used some 3/8 fuel line and routed it directly from the pump to the check valve, omitting the basket filler line. If you're doing this, you will see that when you pull the basket out of the tank there is a filter mounted on the outside of it too. This is where the fuel is pumped into the basket. Since I opened the bottom of my basket, this function is no longer necessary. I removed that outter filter and the "dual hat" thingy that hooked up to the stock fuel pump and the basket filler tube.


I hope this helps anyone who is thinking of doing the same thing. I realize this is not the most comprehensive writeup, but it's better than nothing.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 10:11 AM   #2
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So carquest sells a basket and wiring harness... cost me like 100 bucks, just fyi

This is the fuel pump I'm using as well!
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Old November 14th, 2011, 10:13 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by me2dumb4college View Post
So carquest sells a basket and wiring harness... cost me like 100 bucks, just fyi
Whatcha talking 'bout Willis?
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Old November 14th, 2011, 10:17 AM   #4
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How much hp does this pump support? I've been trying to find other fuel option rather that svt pump
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Old November 14th, 2011, 10:19 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by joswo1980 View Post
How much hp does this pump support? I've been trying to find other fuel option rather that svt pump
I don't know exactly, but it's more than the svt pump.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 11:20 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by joswo1980 View Post
How much hp does this pump support? I've been trying to find other fuel option rather that svt pump
Around 500rwhp na with the single pump.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 11:44 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Rabid Stang View Post
Around 500rwhp na with the single pump.
DivisionX Stryker 340lph Fuel Pump
Flow Data Summary

Calibrated for Gasoline.
13.5V
345LPH at 40psi
335LPH at 43.5psi
310LPH at 50psi
275LPH at 60psi
260lph at 70psi
230lph at 80psi
205lph at 90psi
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Old November 14th, 2011, 03:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by me2dumb4college View Post
DivisionX Stryker 340lph Fuel Pump
Flow Data Summary

Calibrated for Gasoline.
13.5V
345LPH at 40psi
335LPH at 43.5psi
310LPH at 50psi
275LPH at 60psi
260lph at 70psi
230lph at 80psi
205lph at 90psi
I'm completely aware of their flow rate. I use two of them in my setup. I don't know why you posted that but ok.
I've also tuned 4 cars with them now and have a pretty good idea what they can do.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 03:59 PM   #9
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Ya I'm not really understanding y he reposted that either lol, so roughly 420 fi??
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Old November 14th, 2011, 04:20 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Rabid Stang View Post
I'm completely aware of their flow rate. I use two of them in my setup. I don't know why you posted that but ok.
I've also tuned 4 cars with them now and have a pretty good idea what they can do.
cuz for the most part I dont know what I'm doing or talking about... but every now and then one of my posts is relevant!



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Old November 14th, 2011, 04:57 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Rabid Stang View Post
Around 500rwhp na with the single pump.
I would imagine they would handle more than that.

My 340 has no issue with 500 rwhp via turbo, at 49 PSI.

Stock lines, stock everything minus 55# injectors.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 05:07 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by BMR Tech View Post
I would imagine they would handle more than that.

My 340 has no issue with 500 rwhp via turbo, at 49 PSI.

Stock lines, stock everything minus 55# injectors.
Really????? That's awesome, that all I needed to know, diff getting this rather then a svt pump and a bap
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Old November 14th, 2011, 05:52 PM   #13
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why did you keep the pprv?
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Old November 14th, 2011, 06:21 PM   #14
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I'm going to try one in my 500rwhp new motor. I already performed a FULL wiring upgrade though, removed the PPRV valve along time ago also. I'm hoping that with my bap cranked up, all of the other mods it will hold 500rwhp boosted. We'll see
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Old November 14th, 2011, 06:23 PM   #15
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FYI my SVT pump with the bap cranked half way up was at 86% DC with 410rwhp. The wiring upgrade and cranking the bap wide open brought the DC down to approx 70%. I honestly thing the SVT pump would make very close to 500rwhp with all the supporting mods but if this pump flows what it says it should be able to handle it no problem.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 06:35 PM   #16
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You need to block off the back tube, in the stock design it acts like a vacuum and pulls fuel up the tube, across the fuel pump T and on through the lines to the motor. How you have it the pump is squirting fuel up to the T and half (well not half but its deff wasting Fuel Pump Duty Cycle) of it is going right back in the tank and the other half to the motor since you cut holes in your basket............. here is how i know
Installed my SVT pump and PPRV delete with Pics
look at post # 29, 30 and the post and picture on post # 39
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Old November 14th, 2011, 06:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by BaznastyDave View Post
You need to block off the back tube, in the stock design it acts like a vacuum and pulls fuel up the tube, across the fuel pump T and on through the lines to the motor. How you have it the pump is squirting fuel up to the T and half (well not half but its deff wasting Fuel Pump Duty Cycle) of it is going right back in the tank and the other half to the motor since you cut holes in your basket............. here is how i know
Installed my SVT pump and PPRV delete with Pics
look at post # 29, 30 and the post and picture on post # 39
I did the same thing with a screw... and I thought I was being creative. Guess not lol
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Old November 14th, 2011, 06:46 PM   #18
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I will say that back port loses VERY little DC is any at all honestly. My DC before the wiring mods was right in line with most others I've seen without the back port capped off.... The PPRV delete seems to lower it up to 5% and the wiring upgrade if done right is good for about another 10-15. Most only upgrade the wire to the FPDM. I ran larger wire to everything including down to the fuel pump hat.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:26 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Nitmare67 View Post
I will say that back port loses VERY little DC is any at all honestly. My DC before the wiring mods was right in line with most others I've seen without the back port capped off.... The PPRV delete seems to lower it up to 5% and the wiring upgrade if done right is good for about another 10-15. Most only upgrade the wire to the FPDM. I ran larger wire to everything including down to the fuel pump hat.
Do you have a link to a write up on the wire upgrade? 10-15% is pretty large, and what exactly is the Fuel Pump Driver Module and what does it do?
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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:31 PM   #20
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I dont have a write up. I just looked at the electric schematic and upgraded the source wiring. I could put something together for you though. My battery is already relocated to the trunk which made it very easy to do the upgrade as compared to running a wire from under the hood. Many people only upgrade the wire to the BAP or FPDM which does help but upgrading the wire all the way to the hat is where the full gain is found.

The FPDM is what controls your fuel pump voltage and DC to maintain correcty fuel pressure at all times. I measured a voltage drop of 1.5 volts from the battery to the FPDM due to the wiring size. This voltage drop will be even greater when there is a load on the circuit. I switched to 8 gauge wire and wired a control relay into the original power wire for the sytem (which is connected to the bap because my bap is wired pre fpdm). I now measure a voltage drop of .1 volts at the FPMD. I havent measure it at the hat but I also installed 8 gauge in all the way to the hat. I would like to upgrade the actual wiring inside of the tank also but it hasnt happened yet and its such a short distance I doubt there will be a noticable gain.
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Last edited by Nitmare67; November 14th, 2011 at 09:38 PM.
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