[Mike113]

So I've got a bad rod bearing and instead of paying about $1700 to fix it, I figure its a good time to build the bottom end to allow for a power adder later.

I haven't narrowed down the specifics yet, but it'll be roughly like this:

Stock block. machined and all that
cast crank
Forged rods and pistons
stock heads maybe I'll port them...
Cams

Goal is to have a badass N/A 2v with around 11.5:1 compression plus the cams...spray will come later

with stock heads, what kind of power do you think I could make?

[zinc-vert02]

should be fun

[Mike113]

Originally Posted by zinc-vert02 should be fun

yea for sure. I've been looking for a good excuse to finally do this...

How much power potential would the motor have with a setup somewhat like this. I know to make a more accurate guess, knowing the cam specs and more about the pistons would help, but i havent narrowed that down yet

[laoutlaw01]

Only thing that's going to add power to your build list is the port job n the heads,and that depends if they are done right. Forged bottom end doesn't add power,it just makes it able to take the power. And be careful on the cams you choose also,some are good for turbos and some are good for n/a. You won't notice a whole lot of power just by rebuilding unless your engine was down on compression or something the way it was.

[bandity2k00]

Why not get a mmr block on sale right now for 2499. You will spend close to that for rotating assembley and labor. And for 2499 you get the mmr 900 with cobra.forged crank. Shortblock good for 900 hp and 1 yr warranty and peice of mind. Just seems smarter if you got the money and no limits of 600 rwhp of stock cast crank

[slow02gt]

why do people say that the cast crank limit is 600rwhp huh? people have made 700 rwhp with a stock crank. and 2499 will not be cheaper than him useing his stock crank and gettin rods and pistons... hell brandon spins his stock crank 9000 rpms so why do a forged crank on a n/a motor again?

and laoutlaw the op will notice a again without the cams because of the added compression...he is going 2points up in comppression.

op thats a good plan since you know your stayin n/a do not keep stock heads on the car look for a deal on some ported pi heads and go with a decent good spec'd n/a cam and hit it with a bottle..you can even get the stock coyote rods new from ford for $250 bucks and a decent pistons and you are all set...the new 5.0 rods are lighter so would be good for your n/a motor..

[NeverEnuff]

Just get a Mark VIII or cobra shortblock and bolt your heads on it. If you don't plan on shooting past 400-500hp. Itll give you the comp you want and run great with cams...for cheap.

[bandity2k00]

Cause 600im is safe. All are different. Missed he was stayin NA. Thought he meant FI by power adder which id buy a 900hp setup so i dont have to change a damn motor if i get use to boost or spray levels...just dumb..ull.get use to a 150 shot then a 250 shot and you will eat bottles up and $$

[bandity2k00]

But everyones OPINION is.wrong to slow02 lol..

[blownstang]

Rods, pistons, and bearings will be about $1,000. Good engine shops around here charge right at $1500 to machine and assemble a shortblock. That right there is already the price of the MMR shortblock that is on sale. The MMR shortblock is a better deal with more potential. If you're ok with going used you can probably find an 03/04 shorblock for under $2,000.

[BLUE91GT]

I really wish I had the money to buy one right now that's a dam good price and the way I would go. Just my .02

[Mike113]

thanks for all the input guys. I'm 19 and this is my first car so I'll be pretty happy if one day it makes 450hp w/ nitrous. I'll build a 1000hp car later. Plenty of time left for that

I'm also in college and on a budget. As it is my parents are gonna have to help me out here. They feel bad that I would have to spend 1700 to just fix it...I was about to just throw cams in, but then this happend so theyre trying to make spending the money worth it.

I'm gonna save a little money and stay with the stock crank. I'm having a local guy build it for me. (Matt Kesatie). From what I hear, hes pretty much a Mustang genious. He does all the tuning as well. Down the road I'll probably have him do more work for me so I'm not gonna go out and buy some motor online and ask him to do stuff with it. I'd rather him do everything. He's getting me a pretty good deal too

[slow02gt]

Originally Posted by bandity2k00 But everyones OPINION is.wrong to slow02 lol..

nah just always yours

[slow02gt]

and OP i heard matt is the guy to go to out there in florida..

[ryeguy2006a]

I want to build my engine some day too... GL

[Mike113]

What type of power do you guys think I might see out of this? 11.5:1 cr with some good cams...

[Orange2V]

Originally Posted by Mike113 What type of power do you guys think I might see out of this? 11.5:1 cr with some good cams...

11.5 is a lot of compression with pump gas. A good dyno tune will be a must!

My best HP guess: 4.6 11.5:1 stock PI heads and stage 2 cams is probably around 325-345 HP assuming you have TB, Plenum, headers and a bitchin dyno tune.

Add stage 2 MHS port job and you will be around 380-390 HP.


Add a after market intake like Edelbrock and you won't gain a huge amount of HP but it will run your power up in the RPM range and kill your low end torque a little. Will help if you are sprayin nitrous tho. I would only go aftermarket intake if you are going nitrous.

Keep in mind with 11.5:1 compression I wouldn't spray much nitrous unless you go with a dedicated fuel tank with race gas on the nitrous feed or drain your gas tank and run race gas when you know you're gonna spray.




****Remember this is just a guess. Thats the best anyone can do. Things always sound better on paper. That setup is pretty common though and you will be happy with is as a street driven car no matter what the dyno says.


Enjoy!

[Mike113]

Originally Posted by Orange2V 11.5 is a lot of compression with pump gas. A good dyno tune will be a must! My best HP guess: 4.6 11.5:1 stock PI heads and stage 2 cams is probably around 325-345 HP assuming you have TB, Plenum, headers and a bitchin dyno tune. Add stage 2 MHS port job and you will be around 380-390 HP. Add a after market intake like Edelbrock and you won't gain a huge amount of HP but it will run your power up in the RPM range and kill your low end torque a little. Will help if you are sprayin nitrous tho. I would only go aftermarket intake if you are going nitrous. Keep in mind with 11.5:1 compression I wouldn't spray much nitrous unless you go with a dedicated fuel tank with race gas on the nitrous feed or drain your gas tank and run race gas when you know you're gonna spray. ****Remember this is just a guess. Thats the best anyone can do. Things always sound better on paper. That setup is pretty common though and you will be happy with is as a street driven car no matter what the dyno says. Enjoy!

Sweet man! good info. Of course yes, I already have the bolt ons etc. I'm on a budget but I'm going to try and swing a port job on the heads...

I'll definitely get a good dyno tune. The guy who is tuning it built a car for King of the Street this year that put down 1098hp...lol. I'm confident in his abilities to say the least.

Nitrous will be later down the road. Probably when I'm out of college. It may very well become a race car with a big shot and race gas only. But if not I'll keep the spray down. I've heard other guys say to to be careful with the compression on pump gas.

If it makes 315 w/ rod/pistons/cams. I'll be a happy camper for sure. Its on auto too, so maybe slightly less than you guessed?

[Orange2V]

Originally Posted by Mike113 Sweet man! good info. Of course yes, I already have the bolt ons etc. I'm on a budget but I'm going to try and swing a port job on the heads... I'll definitely get a good dyno tune. The guy who is tuning it built a car for King of the Street this year that put down 1098hp...lol. I'm confident in his abilities to say the least. Nitrous will be later down the road. Probably when I'm out of college. It may very well become a race car with a big shot and race gas only. But if not I'll keep the spray down. I've heard other guys say to to be careful with the compression on pump gas. If it makes 315 w/ rod/pistons/cams. I'll be a happy camper for sure. Its on auto too, so maybe slightly less than you guessed?

Sounds like your expectations are very very realistic. You will be fine!

[Shaun03GT]

Why are you guys building the block, but putting cast cranks in? I know its not common to hear crank failure, but a steel crank takes away a lot of stress on the rods and pistons. Thats why the 5 speed Machs rev to 7000rpm, and the auto Machs (cast cranks) rev to 6000rpm.

The thing that hurts the cast crank the most is RPM's. So if you spin that motor 6500rpm + with a cast crank and a power adder, youll regret it. Its like an extra $500-600 to go forged.

Just sayin'