bad cop's and tps
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Old November 25th, 2011, 05:12 PM   #1
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bad cop's and tps


I was reading and article about someone whose stang would stall when coming to a stop or cornering etc. Some of you know that I have that problem in my 00 gt so I was told to buy a new iac which didnt help. Well in that thread, I was told it could be a bad cop. I tested all my cop's and 3 or 4 are bad. Then I tested my tps (for the hell of it). The reference voltage is at 5 volts (haynes says thats where it should be). Then I tested the tps at idl. Haynes sayes it should be about 0.5-1 volt. Mines at almost 5 volts . Then I would rev it and check the volts and it would actually go down. I wanted to get a second opinion on the everything.

Also the cop's dont miss so Im not going to replace them right away and theyre 42 bucks on rock auto. Any info is appreciated.
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Old November 25th, 2011, 05:46 PM   #2
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TPS,,,,I'm amazed they last as long as they do given their construction. (I've built several TPS testers for 2nd/3rd tier suppliers). Might be easier to remove the TPS from the TB to test it. You're likely looking at the signal wrong, since your car does run.

They are usually pretty cheap too. I'd suggest just buying another TPS, even if that's not your problem, a new one will definitely provide a cleaner signal. (the internal wiper arm eventually gets bad spots on the contact strip).
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Old November 25th, 2011, 06:20 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ZenMGT View Post
TPS,,,,I'm amazed they last as long as they do given their construction. (I've built several TPS testers for 2nd/3rd tier suppliers). Might be easier to remove the TPS from the TB to test it. You're likely looking at the signal wrong, since your car does run.

They are usually pretty cheap too. I'd suggest just buying another TPS, even if that's not your problem, a new one will definitely provide a cleaner signal. (the internal wiper arm eventually gets bad spots on the contact strip).
I did what my haynes manual said and the reference voltage was right but the voltage when I connected my multimeter to the ground and signal wires was was off. I just ordered a new tps off rock auto so hopefully that will solve my stalling problems
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Old November 25th, 2011, 08:00 PM   #4
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rockauto rocks

I don't think you could invert the voltage signal from your TPS and have the car run decently (besides stalling),,,at all. Hopefully the tps is your problem though, cheap/fast fix.
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Old November 25th, 2011, 08:18 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by ZenMGT View Post
rockauto rocks

I don't think you could invert the voltage signal from your TPS and have the car run decently (besides stalling),,,at all. Hopefully the tps is your problem though, cheap/fast fix.
Yea bro I order from rock auto all the time lol. I thought I was measuring the voltage wrong and I swapped the probes and the number turned negative ( its obvious now lol). I hope a new tps will solve my problem too bro. Ill keep you posted.
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Old November 25th, 2011, 08:21 PM   #6
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most accurate way to read the tps is threw a scan tool like sct cause it will show you what the computer sees. if indeed it is bad it is cheap to replace, hell i think i have an extra one laying around along with the coil packs. id sell you all the stuff you need for cheap so you can eliminate everything you think you have going wrong
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Old November 25th, 2011, 08:34 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
most accurate way to read the tps is threw a scan tool like sct cause it will show you what the computer sees. if indeed it is bad it is cheap to replace, hell i think i have an extra one laying around along with the coil packs. id sell you all the stuff you need for cheap so you can eliminate everything you think you have going wrong
I just bought a new tps off rock auto lol. What coils do you have? Packs or cop's?
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Old November 25th, 2011, 08:48 PM   #8
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i have oem coils nothing special, but i have found that oem works best, i still run stock in my mid 600 hp car now
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Old November 25th, 2011, 08:51 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
i have oem coils nothing special, but i have found that oem works best, i still run stock in my mid 600 hp car now
Im looking to buy 8 new cop's for my stang and its expensive to buy all 8
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Old November 25th, 2011, 08:54 PM   #10
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I know these COP's have some bad rep to them, but I replaced all my COP's with these. At 176 shipped for all 8 it isn't bad at all. I was reading to make sure you use di-electric grease to hopefully prevent premature failure. Some people have them fail within a month, some people have them go 4+ years with no problems. Worth a try?

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Old November 25th, 2011, 08:56 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by 00MustangGtPremium View Post
Im looking to buy 8 new cop's for my stang and its expensive to buy all 8
oh well, i only have 7 used ones that worked fine when i pulled them
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Old November 25th, 2011, 09:44 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
I know these COP's have some bad rep to them, but I replaced all my COP's with these. At 176 shipped for all 8 it isn't bad at all. I was reading to make sure you use di-electric grease to hopefully prevent premature failure. Some people have them fail within a month, some people have them go 4+ years with no problems. Worth a try?

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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
oh well, i only have 7 used ones that worked fine when i pulled them
I think Im going to wait a little while before I replace my coils. They havent failed yet and I feel that money should be spent elsewhere
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Old November 25th, 2011, 10:31 PM   #13
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If they aren't bad I wouldn't replace them. I thought I had a bad one so that's why I replaced mine. If I didn't, I would have kept it OEM
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Old November 25th, 2011, 10:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
If they aren't bad I wouldn't replace them. I thought I had a bad one so that's why I replaced mine. If I didn't, I would have kept it OEM
They dont miss so Im not going to replace them yet. I researched how to check cop's with a multimeter and 3 or 4 were out of spec
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Old November 25th, 2011, 11:29 PM   #15
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I also have this problem its mostly only when I come to a pretty quick stop however it has done it a few times literally driving down the freeway.
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Old November 26th, 2011, 12:04 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by zmr722 View Post
I also have this problem its mostly only when I come to a pretty quick stop however it has done it a few times literally driving down the freeway.
I think its common with our cars actually. My car has never stalled on me on the interstate but a few times when I was turning it stalled and Id almost nail a curb or a car at the intersection so Id like to solve the problem
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Old November 26th, 2011, 10:39 AM   #17
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Mine was doing this all the time. I cleaned the IAC and it still did it. Are you running an aftermarket throttle body? The stock throttle body has a hole in the butterfly valve. The BBK one I bought didn't. At first I had vacuum lock and had to tweak the stop screw about a 1/16th turn to fix that. It still was stalling going around corners. I eventually tweaked the stop screw a little more, not much, and not enough to change the idle. Problem fixed. I don't really know but maybe the butterfly valve was shutting too fast or too tight and it wasn't giving the IAC enough time to react. I been running it that way for two years now without any problems.

You might try adjusting the stop screw. It's a whole lot less expensive than replacing all that other stuff.
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Old November 26th, 2011, 02:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT View Post
Mine was doing this all the time. I cleaned the IAC and it still did it. Are you running an aftermarket throttle body? The stock throttle body has a hole in the butterfly valve. The BBK one I bought didn't. At first I had vacuum lock and had to tweak the stop screw about a 1/16th turn to fix that. It still was stalling going around corners. I eventually tweaked the stop screw a little more, not much, and not enough to change the idle. Problem fixed. I don't really know but maybe the butterfly valve was shutting too fast or too tight and it wasn't giving the IAC enough time to react. I been running it that way for two years now without any problems.

You might try adjusting the stop screw. It's a whole lot less expensive than replacing all that other stuff.
Nope I have the stock tb. Im thinking is fuel related because a few times when I saw the rpms start to drop Id hit the gas and it would have absolutly no effect. Also I have a new iac because of what I was told on a previous thread, which didnt help at all. Im just going to have to wait for my tps to come in and install it to see.
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