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post #1 of 23 Old December 26th, 2011, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Change your clutch fork

I just want to share this with ppl who may not know or are new to this game. If and when you change your clutch, aside from changing pilot bearing and getting a FORD throw out bearing, I'd highly recommend changing your clutch for to a FORD Racing clutch fork. I did my clutch quite some time back and then had to drop the trans AGAIN to change a bent fork. Ive got the t-3650. I just figured id share this for some ppl who may be doing this to their cars soon. Might as well do it while ur trans is down and not worry, and then spend the $ again. wish ida knew that b4 hand. hope you find it helpful
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post #2 of 23 Old December 26th, 2011, 10:08 PM
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is it the same as the factory fork? Other than the unforseen bend, what is the difference if i cahnge it or not? Havn't heard to many of them bending on a regular basis.

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post #3 of 23 Old December 26th, 2011, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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no i dnt think they do bend often. But i have high mileage on my car and im guessing it was the original clutch. so when i changed it, i still had an issue going into gear at high rpm and very hard pedal feel. It was from the clutch fork. So i paid to have that done after having my clutch installed. That was $ i coulda saved cuz i spent to have the trans dropped twice. just wanted to put that out there so if some1 else is high mileage they can do the fork while theyre changing their clutch and save the $
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post #4 of 23 Old December 26th, 2011, 10:51 PM
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they're known to bend. a local guy has been machining billet forks and selling them. he rebuilds alot of t45's.

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post #5 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 12:36 AM
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Another thing that happens with the fork over time is the little metal fingers that attach it to the pivot stud can break. Had that happen on my original one.

Another thing I highly recommend to replace is the pivot stud. The head on it wears over time resulting in a rough interface between it and the fork.

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post #6 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 07:50 AM
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All good info from my pepes

Another thing that is good to do, is install a magnet to release the TO bearing from continual contact with the pressure plate:


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Originally Posted by dr.gonzo! View Post
It would still be fun to have a truck that poops speed bumps in fast succession.
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post #7 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 09:03 AM
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Also the pivot stud "pocket" can get worn. Enough to make it slip off the stud and make driving very difficult.
When I replace my clutch Im doing the magnet thing and also the spring over the cable under the dust cover.
Fun job doing anything clutch related, right.....?

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post #8 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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ill have to do that magnet next time my clutch is due for changing. I have a ram hdx clutch and really dont like it so i may change much sooner than needed. And yes clutch work of ANY kind is a blast!! lol
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post #9 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 02:51 PM
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Unfortunately it's not a "fork", just a lever with a hole in it--wish it was because then you might be able to change it without pulling the tranny...

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post #10 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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^^ for real!
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post #11 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 08:25 PM
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I had to remove my transmission again for the same problem. i knew something was off, clutch fork and/or pivot stud. When I removed the transmission, this was what the pivot stud looked like.



The clutch fork is $40 and the pivot stud $18. When you're doing the transmission, it's extra insurance.

When I went in the second time, I put new fork, pivot stud TOB and freeplay kit (DIY for less than $5.)

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post #12 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustanginky View Post
they're known to bend. a local guy has been machining billet forks and selling them. he rebuilds alot of t45's.
Your thinking shift fork... hes talking clutch fork. I know what shift forks your talking about. I saw a member selling them on one of the mustang websites. They look like they would be bitching for sure. Funny thing is I BEAT THE HELL out of all my T45s and have never broken one. I literally power shift my Mustang daily for the past 2 years and have never broken a shift fork. Just goes to show that a properly adjusted clutch, decent shifter with shift stops and a little skill can make them last along time. I'm sure if I tossed a pair of slicks on and started doing 5k RPM launches the story would be different though.

I also changed my clutch fork though on my t45. At 125k miles the clutch fork was so worn it would rattle against the dam bell housings, pop and grind and everything else lol. The pocket was almost worn through

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post #13 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjohnstud4200 View Post
I had to remove my transmission again for the same problem. i knew something was off, clutch fork and/or pivot stud. When I removed the transmission, this was what the pivot stud looked like.



The clutch fork is $40 and the pivot stud $18. When you're doing the transmission, it's extra insurance.

When I went in the second time, I put new fork, pivot stud TOB and freeplay kit (DIY for less than $5.)
thats xactly why i put this thread. just so ppl wouldnt have 2 spend the $ twice. might as well do it while its down. i had the xact same issue as urs
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post #14 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 08:58 PM
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I replaced my bent fork with one a little over a year ago. Still holding up strong.

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post #15 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitmare67 View Post
Your thinking shift fork... hes talking clutch fork. I know what shift forks your talking about. I saw a member selling them on one of the mustang websites. They look like they would be bitching for sure. Funny thing is I BEAT THE HELL out of all my T45s and have never broken one. I literally power shift my Mustang daily for the past 2 years and have never broken a shift fork. Just goes to show that a properly adjusted clutch, decent shifter with shift stops and a little skill can make them last along time. I'm sure if I tossed a pair of slicks on and started doing 5k RPM launches the story would be different though.

I also changed my clutch fork though on my t45. At 125k miles the clutch fork was so worn it would rattle against the dam bell housings, pop and grind and everything else lol. The pocket was almost worn through
lol dude you and me both. I have the 3650 tho and beat the shit out of it lol. it holds well too. http://youtu.be/9ydOivo5d4A i shifted into 4th passing the camera. the tire spin u hear in the begininning wasnt a launch. it was a 1st to 2nd shift. the 4.10s make it spin
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post #16 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 09:08 PM
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In the short-term, for a quick-fix, you can pull the access door to bell-housing and just push the fork away from you. This puts it back over the pivot bolt and buys you a bit of time until you get in there.

My trans did this and the pivot bolt was trashed. Fortunately, I had ordered ALL of the parts, not knowing at the time why the clutch was soo hard to push. I was going to do this over a weekend and did not want to leave anything to chance. Ended up, my VIN "said" I had an 8 bolt fly (some GT's had and 8 bolt, along with the Cobras) and could not even surface the flywheel.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.gonzo! View Post
It would still be fun to have a truck that poops speed bumps in fast succession.
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post #17 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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post #18 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazzer The Cat View Post
In the short-term, for a quick-fix, you can pull the access door to bell-housing and just push the fork away from you. This puts it back over the pivot bolt and buys you a bit of time until you get in there.

My trans did this and the pivot bolt was trashed. Fortunately, I had ordered ALL of the parts, not knowing at the time why the clutch was soo hard to push. I was going to do this over a weekend and did not want to leave anything to chance. Ended up, my VIN "said" I had an 8 bolt fly (some GT's had and 8 bolt, along with the Cobras) and could not even surface the flywheel.

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wow. no luck on that 1 huh. i remember waiting 3 hrs for a tow bcuz the clutch was so hard to push down it snapped the cable. the fork was bent and the pivot ball was all chewed up.
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post #19 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 09:18 PM
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Mine began giving me trouble about 2 months before my then GF, now wife, were leaving on a roadtrip to Disneyland and meet some pepes at the now gone Saleen store. I wasn't sure what it was, because it came/went all the time. I put a new cable in it and was fine for the two months of "testing" prior to our trip. Turns out, I only pushed the fork back into place "incidentally" and didn't know it. THIS make it work fine for the two months, so figured the cable fixed it.



ON the way down and 1 hour away from home.... the clutch starts acting up. I wasn't going to blow off our trip! I was not only pissed, but had no idea why it was an issue after two months of being fine. I was in a VERY lousy neighborhood, looking for a place to pull over and try to figure out what was happening. You know the kind.... bars on ALL the windows and doors with broken down pieces of crap rides in EVERY yard! I finally said "f it!" As long as I can get it in 5th gear, I will just drive all the way to LA, from Bay Area and park it in a transmission shoppe to fix while we are at Disneyland for a few days. Limped it there and parked it in the hotel lot. Limped it home and ordered all the parts mentioned a couple posts back.

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Quote:
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It would still be fun to have a truck that poops speed bumps in fast succession.
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post #20 of 23 Old December 27th, 2011, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattrotten View Post
ill have to do that magnet next time my clutch is due for changing. I have a ram hdx clutch and really dont like it so i may change much sooner than needed. And yes clutch work of ANY kind is a blast!! lol

What is wrong with you Ram clutch? I have the same clutch in my car now..loved it until the aluminum flywheel got warped and it shutters now due to me holding the clutch to stop chatter and noise from faulty TOB...

Dropping my transmission again next weekend and I am buying everything new fork, pivot, Ford Racing TOB and pilot, Spec flywheel friction plate and new clutch.


Also, Jazzer, I've heard a lot Ford Mechanics fight over the use of something to pull the TOB off of the clutch and a lot of them argue that doing that causes more wear and tear on the TOB because of the sudden change in RPM that the TOB suffers going from 0 RPM to 6000+RPM. Especially with the Ford Racing TOB being so much heavier than others. They suggest keeping a pre-load on the TOB...just food for thought.

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