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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 Bullitt
12.25@110.4
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,599
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Smoothing out the engine compartment..
1st I want to say that these little mini-builds are what keeps me moving towards a complete project. I don't just want a fast car anymore, I want something that I can be proud of to pull in the parking lot and pop the hood, so there's a lot of attention to detail being spent in this one.
For those who don't check the build logs, or have lost interest in mine since I've been traveling for work, I decided to share a little of the work that goes in to this project. 1st, make sure that you're really dedicated to doing it, because once you start, there's no going back. My engine bay had some damage from a previous accident that wasn't visible with the engine installed, so that will be a problem. The worst was the passenger's side strut tower and the firewall on that side. The strut tower wasn't realized until we pulled all the bondo out of it and noticed how wavy it really is. That doesn't work well for this type of project, so we're going to straighten it up a lot and then use some metal filler to build it up to where it should be. The firewall......... well, I'm still a bit stumped on that one. It's bent, twisted and crimped, so I'm going to do the best I can with it and leave it at that. Here's where we're at so far, more progress tomorrow: Here's the beginning: ![]() ![]() All the silver and primer spots at this point were holes in the strut towers that were welded shut. I also cut the front aprons out, there will be a reason for that later. ![]() ![]() Here's what the driver's side looks like now that it's all smoothed out and ready for paint. ![]() And here's what's been ordered already to help continue on with this project. ![]() ![]() So I have most things in progress, I still need to order some liquid metal to ensure that I don't have 1/2" of bondo back in the strut tower braces when this is done. I also need to figure out how to make some of the corners a bit more smoot and what to do with a few unneeded holes now. I may just weld them shut and then use smaller grommets drilled out for electrical.
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Bolt-On Bullitt... Unmodified longblock, stock intake and throttle body. 266rwhp/306rwtq 12.25@110.4 1.64 60ft Currently Under Reconstruction
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
12.9 @ 111.44
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 1,262
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Wow it looks great! Not going to lie I was expecting it to look like sheit after you cut the panels out but nope I was wrong. Good on ya man, can't wait to see this thing done.
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![]() l Custom Hotside l TurboSmart l MHS l Hallman l On3 l BBK l Hellion l SCT l Flowmaster l Steeda l AEM l Tial l HPX l Hawk l Trickflow |
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#3 | |
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Disturbin' The Peace
2003 Mustang GT
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,389
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This will be good...... :menacing
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![]() 2003 Mustang GT STD 259rwhp 298rwtq
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#4 |
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Baker Jr.
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sweet man...almost did the panels on mine like where you cut yours out back when i painted mine last summer...
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MMR-Modular Mustang Racing Phils Machining-For your ABS Module Delete Manifold! American Muscle-www.Americanmuscle.com HorsePower By Hermonn-TUNER THANKS TO ALL SPONSORS,READY FOR THIS 2012 RACING SEASON!
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#5 |
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Baker Jr.
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Alot of work just for paint...props to ya bro...
Heres what it looked like before..all faded shitty factory paint job and dirty and thats only with 40k miles..most new edge cars are way worse lol..Mine was actually decent but not no where near my standards...Was just going to throw it back together when i swapped motor but glad i took the time to paint and do it right and really stands out.
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MMR-Modular Mustang Racing Phils Machining-For your ABS Module Delete Manifold! American Muscle-www.Americanmuscle.com HorsePower By Hermonn-TUNER THANKS TO ALL SPONSORS,READY FOR THIS 2012 RACING SEASON!
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 Bullitt
12.25@110.4
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,599
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Updated pics for the 4.6 crowd. Slowly but surely:
![]() ![]()
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Bolt-On Bullitt... Unmodified longblock, stock intake and throttle body. 266rwhp/306rwtq 12.25@110.4 1.64 60ft Currently Under Reconstruction
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
'01 Gt Vert auto
13.2@103.8 n/a Stock stall
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Raleigh, Nc
Posts: 1,452
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wooot
lets do mine next rich lol
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![]() 253rwhp 294rwtq motor 337rwhp 427rwtq 90 shot |
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 Bullitt
12.25@110.4
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,599
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I will never ever ever do this job again........
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Bolt-On Bullitt... Unmodified longblock, stock intake and throttle body. 266rwhp/306rwtq 12.25@110.4 1.64 60ft Currently Under Reconstruction
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#9 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
'01 Gt Vert auto
13.2@103.8 n/a Stock stall
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Raleigh, Nc
Posts: 1,452
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im gonna stop by soon to check it out
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![]() 253rwhp 294rwtq motor 337rwhp 427rwtq 90 shot |
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#10 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 Bullitt
12.25@110.4
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,599
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I was kind of dreading doing the corners and the edges, but I went to see a buddy of mine who does bodywork for a living, and he showed me a very nice, easy trick to do the corners that will save me a buttload of time.
He had some sand-able seam sealer that they use to do 1/4 panels and stuff and it dries really strong, is still pliable, is sand-able and when sanded and painted over is pretty much invisible. It comes in a tube like caulk, so you but a bead of it down, and then use a rag with a touch of lacquer thinner on it and run it down the seam, kind of like you do with caulk and the thinner makes it incredibly smooth from the start. Then you just finish sand it and primer and paint it. I'm going to pick some up so that when I get done welding, I can try it out next weekend.
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Bolt-On Bullitt... Unmodified longblock, stock intake and throttle body. 266rwhp/306rwtq 12.25@110.4 1.64 60ft Currently Under Reconstruction
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#11 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
13.7@103
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Stoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,913
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I wanna see some pictures of your welds
![]() Practice your downhand and you won't have to do that much work. In my opinion Nice flat welds > Smooth. especially for corners. Looks great, keep it coming.
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![]() Bigbore Kooks (parting out 2v motor) N/A 5.3 4v Build
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ing-build.html |
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#12 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 Bullitt
12.25@110.4
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,599
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I'm getting better all the time, but nowhere near enough to leave my welds exposed under there.......
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Bolt-On Bullitt... Unmodified longblock, stock intake and throttle body. 266rwhp/306rwtq 12.25@110.4 1.64 60ft Currently Under Reconstruction
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#13 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
13.7@103
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Stoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,913
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Its okay.we all start somewhere
What type of wire are you using? I\d recomend using metal core .45 Its pretty hard to fuck up with that type of wire when running mig
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![]() Bigbore Kooks (parting out 2v motor) N/A 5.3 4v Build
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ing-build.html |
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#14 |
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Regular
2002 Mustang GT
9.2@80 in the 1/8th
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: La Vergne, TN
Posts: 134
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Question..When was your car wrecked...? I assume it had a salvage title? Looks good though man. Keep it up. It'll be done before you know it
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 Bullitt
12.25@110.4
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,599
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It was wrecked and rebuilt before I bought it, and yeah it has a salvage/rebuilt title. It looked good when it was done, but over the past few years, and while doing mods, I kept finding things that I didn't like about the way it was repaired. Namely, the amount of bondo that was on the strut towers.
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Bolt-On Bullitt... Unmodified longblock, stock intake and throttle body. 266rwhp/306rwtq 12.25@110.4 1.64 60ft Currently Under Reconstruction
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#16 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Looks good Rich. What are the ultimate motor plans?
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2002 Procharged GT 12.503 @ 113.08 351rwhp 353rwtq Car Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/mell00ut5?feature=mhee
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#17 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 mustang gt
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,896
![]() iTrader: 1 reviews
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Yeah I wanna hear some engine plans as well
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Rock stock
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#18 |
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Premium Member
99 limited edition vert
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tacoma,Washington
Posts: 3,297
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pretty big for 16/18 gauge steel. I use no larger than .035 and .020 on sheet metal. I use the larger(.045, not.45) on plate steel 1/4" or larger
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KB'd 446rwhp/451rwtq, Mustang Dyno http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZDpQ0EEm1MTuned by Joe at http://www.tricktuners.com |
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#19 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2001 Bullitt
12.25@110.4
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,599
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I have already got a 410W in the works. Have everything for the shortblock, including solid roller cam and lifters. I just have to choose heads and induction and of course, save up the cash to pay for them
I was told that a smaller wire would probably be a bit easier to manage on 18 gauge by another welder as well.
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Bolt-On Bullitt... Unmodified longblock, stock intake and throttle body. 266rwhp/306rwtq 12.25@110.4 1.64 60ft Currently Under Reconstruction
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#20 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2003 Mustang Fauxbra
N/T @ Fast
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Statesboro, Ga
Posts: 2,879
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.023 is all you'll ever need to weld on factory sheet metal. Make the switch and you'll be golden.
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![]() All the typical bolt-ons, well a lot are welded on. Bone stock I tell ya. First time at the track, what do I do now? 03 Silver Fauxbra; 06 Legend Lime GT, 89 Outwlaw 10.5W Coupe, 93 Teal Cobra, 93 Red GT, 93 Teal LX - All Sold |
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