parts Install Thrashorama
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Old December 31st, 2011, 02:30 PM   #1
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parts Install Thrashorama


well, looks like i'll be busy tomorrow and monday, here's what i've got to install

1)driveshaft loop (i got an frpp and a upr to choose from, which one would be best?)
2)UPR 4 bolt caster camber plates
3)Innovate LC1 wideband with db gauge
4)SLP line loc
5)fiore firewall adjuster
6)MM quadrant

anyone got tips or write ups on installing this stuff? kinda excited about putting it all on/in!!!!
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Last edited by mustanginky; January 1st, 2012 at 04:21 PM.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 02:34 PM   #2
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Id take FRPP over Upr all day
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Old December 31st, 2011, 02:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Shaun03GT View Post
Id take FRPP over Upr all day
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Old December 31st, 2011, 02:50 PM   #4
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I've had problems with the SLP line lock installed in the suggested location just above the exhaust header, and have several other members also mention that if it gets too hot it won't release and drags or in my case completely locked the front brakes. The only way I got it to release was to loosen the line and relive the pressure. Do to that I made my own brake lines and mounted the solenoid up behind the drivers side strut tower. I also abandoned the SLP kit's instructions that showed providing a constant 12 volt positive to the solenoid and using the switch to close the ground contact. Seemed half ass backwards and too likely to get shorted out, so I suggest you do a permanent ground and run power to the switch then from the switch to the solenoid. Also don't play around with the line lock and forget and leave it in the on (locked) position as it can burn out the solenoid. Caster/camber plates were easy, just follow the instructions and get an alignment when you're done.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 03:22 PM   #5
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i suggest wen doing the linelock to take the entire master cylinder off itll make it much easier in thelong run..and wen SLP say lightly tighten, i say just fully tighten because its gonna be a paint to tighten them wen its in tat spot....and produciont man, you said that you moved the linelock? because mine locked up at the track the 3rd time i used it and im assuming it could be the heat form the header
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Old December 31st, 2011, 03:55 PM   #6
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thanks for the info production man, you don't happen to have a writeup on the line lock do you? or pictures?
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Old December 31st, 2011, 04:03 PM   #7
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for anyone finding my thread searching, i found a good write up for the driveshaft loop install, here it is:

Driveshaft Loop Install
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Old December 31st, 2011, 04:18 PM   #8
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line lock install is ppretty straight up, diriections r clear...just annoying cause of tight spaces
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Old December 31st, 2011, 04:20 PM   #9
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I want a linelock
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Old December 31st, 2011, 04:24 PM   #10
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What's so beneficial about the drive shaft loop?
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Old December 31st, 2011, 04:28 PM   #11
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well i've began drag racing my mustang. to do a burnout in the waterbox it's a requirement. it wraps around the driveshaft towards the front of the car. in the event that the driveshaft snaps it will keep it inside a certain area instead of dropping to the pavement and catapulting my car end over end. think like pole vault lol.
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Old January 1st, 2012, 04:20 PM   #12
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ended up using the upr driveshaft loop. the frpp one would not go over the driveshaft and i didn't feel like messing with lowering it back down and using the frame rails to support it (had it under the axle) so the upr one got the nod.

neither one conforms to the floorboard all that well for those wondering. i guess it's a universal one size fit's all piece.

i also got done istalling my fiore (reichard racing) firewall adjuster and my quadrant, neither that hard to do. figured now would be the time since i had the driver/passenger seat out to put on the driveshaft loop

supposed to be super cold here tomorrow so i may not get that much done, like 18* in the morning and 30* for the high. i will try to do my wideband tomorrow but doubt i'll feel much like doing it considering how cold it's gonna be lol. plus for the moment i don't have a gauge panel/pod for it. i was thinking about going to lowes to return a piece of crap shop light that went out after 5 minutes and then getting some sheet metal to put where the factory cd player is since i have an alpine. i'm wondering though if that will be too low to really pay much attention to while i'm driving. i either really need a gauge pod on my steering column or a gauge pod to go on my a pillar. i have a 2 gauge pod but have fuel pressure and boost up there, not really wanting to ditch either one.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 12:07 AM   #13
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got held up last week by a bitter cold spell. got my subframes installed today however will be hopefully installing my wideband tomorrow. may attempt to tackle the slp line lock in the next few days.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 12:37 AM   #14
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I don't understand how so many people are having problems with the line locks. I have run 22 sop line locks with no problems other than 4v heads are to damn big to fit my hands around.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 07:35 AM   #15
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Same here, no problems with the SLP unit. This goes without saying, but people do forget.......... YOU'LL NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES BEFORE YOU DRIVE OFF after installing the line lock.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 09:20 AM   #16
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Ya I'll be bleeding them lol, no brakes would not be fun when needed.
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