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Old December 31st, 2011, 11:18 PM   #1
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Rebuild or go New


Hey All...Have a 99 GT convertible automatic that I'm going to start investing in. Have bought a SCT turner so all set in that area. My first mods are going to be subframe connectors and a set of 4.10's. Along with the gears I'm going to get Ford Racing rear axle bearing and seal kit along with the 4.10's. My question is whether rebuilding the Traction-LOK LSD is good enough or should I go with an all new one? Believe the difference in cost is around $80 dollars.

After the rear end is done will be going with Bilsteins, H&R SS springs and CC plates.

Would appreciate your thoughts on the Trak-LOK.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 11:19 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by StangGT99 View Post
Hey All...Have a 99 GT convertible automatic that I'm going to start investing in. Have bought a SCT turner so all set in that area. My first mods are going to be subframe connectors and a set of 4.10's. Along with the gears I'm going to get Ford Racing rear axle bearing and seal kit along with the 4.10's. My question is whether rebuilding the Traction-LOK LSD is good enough or should I go with an all new one? Believe the difference in cost is around $80 dollars.

After the rear end is done will be going with Bilsteins, H&R SS springs and CC plates.

Would appreciate your thoughts on the Trak-LOK.
Im no expert on your question but with an automatic, upgrade your torque converter to a higher stall and you'll see a great deal of improvment performance wise.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 11:41 PM   #3
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i have a 2002 auto mods listed below right now im working on my suspension adding new shocks but my next mod is a stall 3800-4000 with a tranny cooler havent made up my mind yet i dont know much about the trak-lok but the gears are a good start in a auto
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Old December 31st, 2011, 11:46 PM   #4
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You already have sub frame connectors on your convertible.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 11:51 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
You already have sub frame connectors on your convertible.
Yeah but thought I'd go with the full length connectors which I believe would do more than what's already on there.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 11:53 PM   #6
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I got a set of 4.10's for sale for ya... Also got a tr3650 for a 5 speed swap :eek


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Old December 31st, 2011, 11:54 PM   #7
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Let me know how it works for you, I may do the full length as well.
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Old December 31st, 2011, 11:55 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by codycat91 View Post
I got a set of 4.10's for sale for ya... Also got a tr3650 for a 5 speed swap :eek
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Already have a set....but thanks.
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Old January 1st, 2012, 01:08 AM   #9
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IMO work on the suspension. It will make a world of difference. Get a set of full length subframes welded in plus a good set of LCA and a panhard bar. The car will feel so much better to drive etc.
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Old January 1st, 2012, 08:17 AM   #10
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Suspension will come once I start getting higher HP mods on, though I will be going for the full length subframes upfront. Thought the gears would get me from light to light a little quicker and redoing some of the rear end components while I'm in there.

After rear end and shocks/springs I will either start moving on CAI, TB and plenum then suspension followed by blower. Either that path or suspension, blower, then CAI, TB/plenum.

Right now I'd like to know if I should rebuild the LSD or just replace it. Also if there is anything else I need to replace/rebuild, over what I've already listed, in the rear while the gears are going in. Probably should mention this 99 has 106K miles on her. My list of things to replace:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-410-9904gt.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-r...-28spline.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/rearendrebuild.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-r...-kit-8604.html

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Old January 1st, 2012, 09:38 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
You already have sub frame connectors on your convertible.
they suck at best. lol. I had mine replaced with MM XL-FLSFC and noticed a huge difference in how the car handled and just over all felt. With the new connectors installed a buddy of mine (5'8" 280lbs) sat in my car and said it feels more sturdy then his coupe, lol. Also the flimsy factory connectors where bent a little and the shop that installed them (4x4/ race car chassis fabricator) said they where some of the best looking connectors he had ever seen, and that they probably would have went on with no problems had my car not had so many miles on it. Needless to say he is now a fan of MM too.
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Old January 1st, 2012, 10:18 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by doubleohvert View Post
they suck at best. lol. I had mine replaced with MM XL-FLSFC and noticed a huge difference in how the car handled and just over all felt. With the new connectors installed a buddy of mine (5'8" 280lbs) sat in my car and said it feels more sturdy then his coupe, lol. Also the flimsy factory connectors where bent a little and the shop that installed them (4x4/ race car chassis fabricator) said they where some of the best looking connectors he had ever seen, and that they probably would have went on with no problems had my car not had so many miles on it. Needless to say he is now a fan of MM too.
you got me sold on these, did it corner better too?
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Old January 1st, 2012, 11:09 AM   #13
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yes the car handles and rides much better now. OP, Id have held off on the tuner. If i could start over, my mod order would be, SFCs, pan hard bar, gear, exhaust (full headers, mid pipe and catback) springs, shocks/struts & cc plates, blower. the connectors, gear and pan hard bar are what I have felt the most difference with.
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Old January 1st, 2012, 12:40 PM   #14
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Doubleohvert...thanks for your input..any thoughts on the list of parts for the rear end overhaul?
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Old January 1st, 2012, 01:34 PM   #15
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Would like to get this work done this week. Anyone have comments on the parts listed as to whether or not this is enough to update the 106K mile rear end. Too much, not enough?
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Old January 1st, 2012, 05:57 PM   #16
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im doing my stall in 2 weeks after that im doing shocks when i get my yearly bonus in march im getting longtubes then im going to start buying parts for my cam install
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 01:06 AM   #17
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just spend the extra couple bucks & buy the new carrier.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 07:42 AM   #18
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You're doing the right thing by replacing the bearings, but honestly I'd just keep the factory locker. It works pretty well. Now if you're planning on making some serious power then I'd upgrade the carrier as well as the axles to 31 splines. I'd save that extra $80 and put it towards a stall or a set of lower control arms.
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Old January 2nd, 2012, 03:55 PM   #19
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Believe I'll be just going with a full carrier replacement. Since I won't be going to the track I'll keep it at the factory 28 spline.
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