Spun Bearing?
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 03:14 AM   #1
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Spun Bearing?


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Last edited by that.damn.deigo; January 6th, 2012 at 06:29 AM.
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 03:26 AM   #2
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I think the usual procedure here is to do a leak down test on all cylinders and see if anything turns up there. A knocking that gets louder/stays on par with acceleration is not a very reassuring sign though.... hopefully you are just real low in oil!!
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 05:07 AM   #3
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See if the noise is louder if you get your head by the ground - if it is, then you probably have a spun rod bearing. (your ears have a more direct line to the oil pan, making it more obvious when you're on the ground, and less so when you're standing)
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 05:16 AM   #4
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when you hear a bad sound and a knocking noise at higher rpms probably means you're running on 7 cylinders or something, and you should NEVER keep driving once a sound like this develops, could definitely cause further damage
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 06:17 AM   #5
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at this point the cost to rebuild the stock parts is not worth it. you can get your crank machined and polished to fix any scoring. as for the rods they are junk and you can pick up a set of modmax 5140 forged I beams for 275. as for the pistons they are kind of pricey but worth it at 515 for a set of 2618 forged pistons. where the money comes in is the machining of the block. for a budget build a torqe plate and hone, square deck and serfacing, and then you have to get it all balanced. if you choose to use arp main studs it adds more to the machining cause you should get the mains line honed. i have seen people spend 800-900 dollars in bock prep alone. even still you will need new bearings, rings, head studs, head gaskets, and much more. the average sb cost about 2700-3600 depending on how extream you want to go, and what parts you choose to re-use. if you cant afford to build a motor the cheapest way is to source a used running motor.
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 08:05 AM   #6
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since you have a 99 GT, you have the Windsor block. Just so you know if you decide to buy a short block from MMR they use the 04 Cobra block. There are some differences between the Windsor and the Cobra block. If you decide to go this route contact me and I can tell you what all you need parts wise as I am building a new engine using the MMR short block and I have the Windsor engine in my 99 GT.

Does your engine sound like it's missing at all?

Buy a automotive stethoscope and see if you can locate where the noise is coming from.
I had a lash adjuster (lifter) that was making a loud ticking sound, the noise went away and then a week later it blew apart.
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 03:04 PM   #7
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I have the manley pistons and 4340 forged MMR H beams for sale. They are the same internals that come in the MMR 600 kit. Pistons are stock comp and .20 over so your block will need to be bored .20 over. Then just use ur own crank or another stock crank.

I had originally bought the MMR 600 kit minus the crank. But now i have an all forged shortblock on the way from MMR so no need for these goods. Ill make you a good deal. If you or anyone else wants them, toss me a pm with an offer!
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 03:04 PM   #8
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MMR is great. All my dealings with them have been very good and they are always there to help you out and answer questions. You can't beat their prices on eigine packages either.
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 05:36 PM   #9
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take a vid and put it up here so we can hear it. ive hadat least 7 spun bearings in my old cars. i kno 1 when i hear 1
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 10:47 PM   #10
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anyone check out the vids?
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Old January 4th, 2012, 12:00 AM   #11
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sounds like a spun bearing to me
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Old January 4th, 2012, 11:06 AM   #12
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haha im from medina and i spun about 6 bearings about 5 months ago
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Old January 4th, 2012, 11:19 AM   #13
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That's a bearing, at least one. Time to tear down.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 01:22 PM   #14
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if you woulda been in southeast ohio id have came and helped a bit. hope it turns out to be something easyer.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 04:28 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 94racing View Post
if you woulda been in southeast ohio id have came and helped a bit. hope it turns out to be something easyer.
Same, but if you were in SW Ohio. Always up to gain more experience working on my kind of car - it just would have helped you out a bit too
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Old January 4th, 2012, 04:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jeep45238 View Post
Same, but if you were in SW Ohio. Always up to gain more experience working on my kind of car - it just would have helped you out a bit too
ha, thnx guys ill start a new thread once i begin a breakdown so everyone can stay updated.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 05:58 PM   #17
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yup bearing it is. oh well, 5.4 time!
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Old January 4th, 2012, 06:29 PM   #18
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is the 5.4 a straight swap?
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Old January 4th, 2012, 09:22 PM   #19
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no theres a couple minor things to change like im adaptors and a few other minor things. theres a TON of info on this site alone to help. the motors are fairly cheap too and waayyyy torquier than ours
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Old January 5th, 2012, 12:18 AM   #20
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gotcha.. im leaning more towards an mmr shortblock. ive heard nothing but good things from them and its useless rebuilding mine when itll cost the same if not more by the time im done..
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