Rebuilt Motor And Reinstalled. Now Drive Train Noise
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 07:30 PM   #1
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Rebuilt Motor And Reinstalled. Now Drive Train Noise


tick is light and speeds up with rpm's. i didn't touch the tranny, just a new clutch, TO bearing and rebuilt the engine.

the tick stops if i put just a little pressure on the clutch pedal.

any ideas?
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 07:53 PM   #2
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Tick or squeak.


I know if it squeaks and stops with slight pressure on clutch pedal it's a tob. But you just replaced it. Others will chime in with more knowledge.


Flywheel maybe?
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 08:02 PM   #3
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Did you use the self adjuster on the clutch pedal? Throw out bearing could be lightly touching the pressure plate...
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 08:04 PM   #4
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not a squeak, sounds like a metal on metal tick. kind of like the sound you would hear if you had a fan hitting a shroud. I can't imagine what it would be.
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 08:05 PM   #5
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explain N20zuki... i should try adjusting the pedal?
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 08:11 PM   #6
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well its in the clutch area, you have that figured out. Try adjusting the clutch again and what TOB did you use? Did you lightly grease the input shaft?
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Old January 3rd, 2012, 09:02 PM   #7
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To use the self adjuster you just lift up on the clutch pedal towards you with the tip of your foot and you will hear the pressure be taken off clutch fork.

I did a TOB in my wifes GT 2 weeks ago, thats it, didnt mess with anything else other then that and when I put it back together it needed to be re-adjusted so I would assume yours would need to be as well. Her pedal had no play in it and the new throw out bearing you could hear. Adjusted it and boom sound went away.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 12:46 PM   #8
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86er... I greased the input shaft when installing. not sure what the brand was at the moment because it came in a kit.

I tried adjusting it last night and seemed to help some but still heard the sound when driving around the block. going to take it out today and see if it is better on the highway.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 07:45 PM   #9
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to be honest, wouldnt be shocked if it was the TOB. Ive seen them last just a few days, Ford is the ONLY TOB I would put on a car
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Old January 4th, 2012, 09:29 PM   #10
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did you make sure the ball that the clutch fork rides on is tight and not worn out?
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 04:10 PM   #11
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Well boys, I think I know what my rattle was. Today was warm so i cleaned out the garage and put the car on stands and crawled under it. original idea was that i needed to get an aftermarket clutch cable firewall adjuster. this may still be true but...

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/...2-01164735.jpg


500 Miles!!!! GRrrrr....
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 04:18 PM   #12
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oh, question... that bearing is obviously split but still has the balls in it. it feels very loose on the shaft. Do I need to mic the shaft and see if it is worn down? what should the diameter be? should a new throwout bearing be loose on the shaft?

i can get a Timken throwout bearing for $14 at Autozone right down the road. any recommendations on brand for replacement or should i just get the Timken.
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 04:21 PM   #13
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oh, doubleohvert... I did replace the stud that the fork rides on during the rebuild because it was worn.
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 06:30 PM   #14
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From what I've read, the only TOB you should ever put in your car is a Ford TOB. Everyone seems to have problems when they use an aftermarket TOB.
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 07:29 PM   #15
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it wont wear down on the shaft, i wouldnt worry about that, but avoid the Timken, even though they make great parts, Id just throw the ford in there and call it quits
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 07:31 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by nathanielwilliam View Post
Well boys, I think I know what my rattle was. Today was warm so i cleaned out the garage and put the car on stands and crawled under it. original idea was that i needed to get an aftermarket clutch cable firewall adjuster. this may still be true but...

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/...2-01164735.jpg


500 Miles!!!! GRrrrr....
I think that what you are seeing there is just the self-centering/aligning action of the TOB, in action. Almost all replacements including FRPP's are made that way.



The release lever is not aligned perfectly parallel to the clutch assembly, flywheel, etc--nothing about the lever's mounting system assures this, and if it did it would likely be a real PITA to adjust.

So, the "swivel" action of the self-centering bearing assembly allows the actual bearing to cant slightly in it's holder so that it does press evenly against the clutch spring fingers.
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 09:15 PM   #17
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