How Do I Break In My Engine?
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Old January 5th, 2012, 05:51 AM   #1
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How Do I Break In My Engine?


Gonna be getting a new MMR short block Cammed/possibly headed

(i know the standard, don't step on it drive it soft for 1500 miles or so method, figure you guys have more knowledge to offer to me)

The question i bring upon you is... what is the best method to breaking in an engine for durability and power down the road?


Thnx a ton ~ Mike!
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Old January 5th, 2012, 07:52 AM   #2
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When you get your engine from MMR it will have a sheet with it that has the suggested break in procedure.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 08:38 AM   #3
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Mike Do 20 WOT pulls then drink about 10 beers and repeat LOL just kidding!! Do exactly what MMR tells you so that your warranty stays in TACT. If I can remember dont go over 4000rpm, dont go into boost, change oil after 500,1500, then start normal oil change intervals. But to be certain use thier sheet like Kick said. your Going to relaly like your engine they are tough.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 11:31 AM   #4
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personally i have found the best way to break in a motor is beat the ever loving piss out of it. Have done that with all my motors i built and they are all running strong to this day
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Old January 5th, 2012, 11:48 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by CobraStang161 View Post
personally i have found the best way to break in a motor is beat the ever loving piss out of it. Have done that with all my motors i built and they are all running strong to this day
+1 I too have used this method, but if purchasing from MMR I would follow their instructions for warranty purposes I guess...although to properly seat the rings, the motor needs to see a variety of RPM/load combinations much like it will during
Normal operating conditions. Also one of the most important parts is engine breaking (downshifting to slow down). Engine break in is a topic that always offers different opinions and experiences, but the short answer is to follow your engine builders advice. I have never built a modular but I have used the beat the piss out of it method on many 4 and 6 cylinder motors as well as 4 wheelers and snowmobiles. It has NEVER failed me. If fact it usually yields better compression than others because it allows the rings to fully seat.


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Old January 5th, 2012, 01:36 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=dhicks7806;4184912
Normal operating conditions. Also one of the most important parts is engine breaking (downshifting to slow down). [/QUOTE]

So is it good or bad to do engine breaking while breaking in an engine?
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Old January 5th, 2012, 01:36 PM   #7
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The shop that put in my new shortblock has a procedure to break in a new shortblock/engine on their dyno. I think he said it takes about a half an hour to complete. After he did the break in procedure, he had it on the dyno for about 4 hours, with plenty of WOT runs, to dial in the tune. He said I could immediately take the car to the track when I left his place.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 01:45 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Rockwell29 View Post
So is it good or bad to do engine breaking while breaking in an engine?
IMO its a crucial part of break...along with varying RPM/load combos


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Old January 5th, 2012, 01:47 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by saxmanJJ View Post
The shop that put in my new shortblock has a procedure to break in a new shortblock/engine on their dyno. I think he said it takes about a half an hour to complete. After he did the break in procedure, he had it on the dyno for about 4 hours, with plenty of WOT runs, to dial in the tune. He said I could immediately take the car to the track when I left his place.
Pretty much...I would change the oil after and then after another 150 miles an then every 500 until I hit 1,500 then switch to normal intervals. I would also use Dino oil until after 1,500 then I switch to synthetic.


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Old January 5th, 2012, 01:54 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by dhicks7806 View Post
IMO its a crucial part of break...along with varying RPM/load combos


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Oh ok gotcha.

OP get an oil drain plug with a magnet on it also they are like $8 on ebay. It will help a bit with any metal particles that are floating around in your oil during break in. And dont go with a cheap oil filter either.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 02:00 PM   #11
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Hey saxman how's your motor holding up after that break in? Run like a raped ape? Have any blow by issues? The only thing I ever to "baby" my motors was keeping boost relatively low for about a 1,000 miles but even that may not be necessary after the rings are seated fully...


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Old January 5th, 2012, 02:05 PM   #12
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sounds more fun then i thought it would be so far
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Old January 5th, 2012, 02:05 PM   #13
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You'll get a million different answers from a million different people. Bottom line is do whats necessary for the warranty and know that the engine needs pressure to seal the rings. Driving too light will hurt power and efficiency.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 07:18 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy View Post
You'll get a million different answers from a million different people. Bottom line is do whats necessary for the warranty and know that the engine needs pressure to seal the rings. Driving too light will hurt power and efficiency.
yeah i think i know what i wanna do, + whatever warranty calls for.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 07:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mike Hadz View Post
yeah i think i know what i wanna do, + whatever warranty calls for.
They have a shortblock that mmr pointed out to me today on another thread its an mmr500 good for 500rwhp its $1599 alot cheaper than the other shortblocks. its usually $2199 its on sale right now http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
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Old January 5th, 2012, 07:48 PM   #16
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how the hell would mmr know what rpm range you took it up to? they have no way to prove or disprove that without some sort of electronic device on your car.

from all my research, you want to introduce lots of engine breaking and lots of varying rpm/loads to give the rings a chance to seat. don't beat the heck out of it IMO but take it up to high rpm's with moderate load, and get on it alot at low rpm's.

put fresh dino oil in it off the bat, change it after your initial drive (maybe 5-7 miles of varying rpm and stop and go), drive about 150 more, change the oil, drive 1000 and change it. i'm about to change mine here shortly and i've got around 700 miles on it.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 08:08 PM   #17
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I built my motor for my car and took it straight to the dyno. Made 847rwhp on a brand new engine. I find it stupid that a company makes you baby an engine when it's built to have the shit beat out of it. A company should feel confident in their products.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 08:09 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by CobraStang161 View Post
I built my motor for my car and took it straight to the dyno. Made 847rwhp on a brand new engine. I find it stupid that a company makes you baby an engine when it's built to have the shit beat out of it. A company should feel confident in their products.
Brand new crotchrockets have a break in procedure also. And those things can bake your legs ridint around babying it. But you see the temp drop quite a bit once you get it open and running.
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Old January 5th, 2012, 08:21 PM   #19
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I run a base tune for about 50 miles then break them in under boost on the dyno. Rings seat great under boost
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Old January 5th, 2012, 08:58 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Rockwell29 View Post
Brand new crotchrockets have a break in procedure also. And those things can bake your legs ridint around babying it. But you see the temp drop quite a bit once you get it open and running.
Most of my friends ignore that as well and ride their bikes like they're built to be ridden from the showroom floor.
Have you ever seen two identical vehicles or bikes that are in the same condition, and one pulls better than the other? I honestly believe this is based on the break in. The guy that drove it hard and seated the rings right has better compression and VE.


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