Compression Test With Warm Engine
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Old January 5th, 2012, 11:47 PM   #1
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Compression Test With Warm Engine


I'm thinking of doing a compression test on my engine. I've read that you have to do it when the engine is warm to get the best readings. Will pulling the plugs out while the engine is warm mess up the threads on the heads? I want to avoid any possible damage.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 12:03 AM   #2
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It should make it easier to get the plugs out
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Old January 6th, 2012, 12:09 AM   #3
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The heads are aluminum, I was always told to wait because the threads can easily strip out. So not exactly sure.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 12:29 AM   #4
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I've pulled them HOT, COLD, WARM at least 40 times on the worst series motor built. The windsor 4.6. Never had a plug problem even with 150hp wet kit and 12lbs of boost. The key to survival is correct plug torque and anti-seize. 156in/lbs final torque with anti-seize and your golden.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 12:30 AM   #5
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If the engine is at normal operating temp, it is fine to pull the plugs. If the engine is HOT, then wait til it cools down. Upon re-install, use anti-seize on the spark plug threads and actually torque them down.
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Old January 6th, 2012, 06:05 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by tbirdscwd View Post
If the engine is at normal operating temp, it is fine to pull the plugs. If the engine is HOT, then wait til it cools down. Upon re-install, use anti-seize on the spark plug threads and actually torque them down.
Torque to 11 to 15 lb-ft (132 to 180 lb-in). The shop manual says 11 to 13 lb-ft, however I have been torquing them to 15 lb-ft (with a known accurate wrench) for over 5 years with no problems.

Also it is best to use a 1/4" drive torque wrench as you will be operating at the top end of it's range. A 3/8" drive wrench is OK, sort of. Using a 1/2" drive wrench is generally not possible because most of them have a range that starts out at 20 lb-ft.

Here is an alternative I have been using for a while now, a torque limiting spark plug socket:



Read more about this here...
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Old January 6th, 2012, 06:09 AM   #7
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CliffyK your link isn't working!
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Old January 6th, 2012, 06:11 AM   #8
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Working on it right now...

[edit]
Got it, the blog index was corrupted...
[/edit]
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Old January 6th, 2012, 03:57 PM   #9
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Last time I changed the plugs I used anti sieze and torqued them to 13 lb-ft. I will let the engine warm up just enought for the fan to kick on then I will pull them and do a compression test. Does the throttle body have to be at WOT for the readings to be correct?
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Old January 6th, 2012, 04:59 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by TorchRed04GT View Post
Last time I changed the plugs I used anti sieze and torqued them to 13 lb-ft. I will let the engine warm up just enought for the fan to kick on then I will pull them and do a compression test. Does the throttle body have to be at WOT for the readings to be correct?
Yes, it does not have to be ALL the way open but at least 1/3 to 1/2 open--also remove all eight plugs before conducting the test...
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PP 70mm TB & plenum, DF Commando, Steeda UDPs,
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3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

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