[noser7]

I need help. Recently my lights radio and amp cut off as soon as the bass hits it turns right back on but it really bugs me. Any Idea as to what it is?

I also started getting white stuff on the battery terminals

Any help will be appriciated

[Cabikejumper]

Need a capassader(sp) but I think that just dims lights,etc if you don't have one.


Buy a terminal brush for like 3.00 Take the cables off and clean the battery terminals. Could just have corrision(white stuff) and its effecting the wiring. I'm not an audio guy so that's strictly a guess/suggestion.

[noser7]

I was thinking the csp but it wouldnt help me cuz I got the stock alt

[moneygreenstang]

You need to upgrade the big 3 to a bigger gauge (smaller numerically) wire from your battery to alternator to the block and the grounds, you probably need a bigger power and ground wire to the AMP. Also check the ohms of your speakers and what ohms your amp can handle and handles best

[noser7]

Yeas I did my big 3 and im running 4 gauge wirr to the amp. It wired at1 ohm which is what its rated at. Its asoundstream rub1.2500

[moneygreenstang]

Originally Posted by noser7 Yeas I did my big 3 and im running 4 gauge wirr to the amp. It wired at1 ohm which is what its rated at. Its asoundstream rub1.2500

Switch to a 1 or 0 gauge power wire, and get your battery and alternator checked

[noser7]

I have to checkmy alt tomorrow for sure. You think if I get a optima yellow top it would help out?

[moneygreenstang]

idk ive heard good and bad things about those batteries but get your alternator checked out first 1ohm is a decent load might just need a bigger alternator and a fresh battery if yours is pretty old. Our electrical systems arent very strong, when I had the stock mach 460 speakers and reciever the lights would flicker every so slighty when it was turned all the way up with bass and treble at stock levels

[noser7]

What bad have u heard?

[moneygreenstang]

Originally Posted by noser7 What bad have u heard?

My first yellow top that I put in the car 3 years ago when I added my sound system work great until June 2009, it would die here and there which I got a new replacement. My second yellow top worked pretty OK for about a year until it start to die after I turn the car off the battery would go completely dead & I would have to jump start it each and every time. One month ago I purchased my third yellow top and the same issue reoccurred all over again, battery die every time I turn the car off. I decided to re-build my alternator (150AMP) thinking it would rectify the issue. Today when I installed the new alternator my dilemma became worst, all my head /fog lamp start to dim and blink continuously, the battery indicator on the dash came on 5 times.


Ever since they started making them in Mexico a couple years ago, they are complete garbage. I was replacing them every 6 months to a year in my race cars and trucks alike - both the red top and yellow tops...


Ended up being a bad battery. The thing would only put out 8 volts with any given load. 2 of the cells in the Optima died. They think the metal straps on top cracked.

It's all good now. Brand new Optima with a brand new warranty.

[noser7]

What battery would u recommend?

[moneygreenstang]

Originally Posted by noser7 What battery would u recommend?

Kinetik

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7341_Kinetik-HC1400-KHC1400.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_ campaign=product_ads&utm_content=pla&utm_term={key word}&gclid=CJfiqtTfuq0CFWkDQAodrxlZ_g

Stinger

http://stingerelectronics.com/produc...edcategoryid=4

[noser7]

Would i be able to use those as a daily car battery also or no?

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[nickgtman]

My car started doing that, i relpaced the battery and its good now, i would also look into a larger alternator, the stock one doesnt put out much. 115 or 130 amp would work great if you have a sound system in your car.

[4.6DreameR]

I agree with what is posted here, test alt, test battery, do the big 3, report back if these things do not work.

The box rise can also cause issues, if it is wired to one ohm the impedance rises to less than one ohm it could send the amp into protect mode.

[noser7]

Originally Posted by nickgtman My car started doing that, i relpaced the battery and its good now, i would also look into a larger alternator, the stock one doesnt put out much. 115 or 130 amp would work great if you have a sound system in your car.

I was looking into getting a kinetik hc1400 and a 200 amp alt

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[waynetx383]

I'd also check the grounds and make sure they are good and solid. Factory wiring is notoriously bad about being to small of a gauge for the head unit at higher volumes. Your best bet is to bypass using the factory wire harness ground to the headunit and ground it straight to the chassis. It could also be the ground at the amp since you said it's cutting out when the bass hits. Most people overlook it, but I'd start there before the battery or alternator. 4 gauge wire is more than sufficient unless you are running a very large amp or multiple amps.

[noser7]

I grounded it to the seatbelt bracket. I sanded down all the paint around it. I got a 2500 watts rms amp

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[waynetx383]

4 gauge is sufficient up to about a 6' run. Any further than that with an amp that size and you need to go to a 1/0 gauge. I'd still say check the ground at the headunit if you are using the factory wiring. I've seen it cause issues at high power levels on numerous systems where it would cut out when the bass hits.

[noser7]

Yea i have to get 0 gauge then. Sooo ground my radio directly to the chassis?

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