Manual Brake Conversion Advice Needed
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Old January 7th, 2012, 11:49 PM   #1
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Manual Brake Conversion Advice Needed


One of the mods i have planned for the coming weeks is converting to a manual brake set-up.I found jegs sells what appears to be a nice set up and so does UPR. i called upr yesterday and the guy on the phone was pretty adament that i would have to completely remove the porportioning valve? this just does'nt sound right to me? i see that the brake lines run from the master cylinder and then through the porportioning valve and the just two lines go over to the abs unit.
my plan was to use the existing lines over to the abs unit which im replacing with a abs delete i purchased and leave the factory valve in the car and then install a line loc between valve and the abs delete. does this sound right?
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Old January 7th, 2012, 11:58 PM   #2
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are you installing a manual rack? im not a fan of manual breaks but i see why you would want to do them if your getting rid of your ps and switching to a manual rack. even then i think i would swap out for an older vacume brake booster, unless my car was track only
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Old January 8th, 2012, 12:08 AM   #3
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if I was doing a manual brake conversion, I'd be redoing all the lines anyway so I wouldn't need the abs delete & would just use an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve.

much cleaner that way & you could mount the prop. valve anywhere you wanted it.

as to why the rep told you that you cant use the factory prop. valve, I have no idea, doesnt really make sense.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 12:44 AM   #4
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Yes i did buy a manual rack, i may just re-do all the brake lines. i have'nt taken anything apart yet but i believe these cars use that goofy bubble flare on the ends of they're lines?
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Old January 8th, 2012, 12:47 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by osa6637 View Post
Yes i did buy a manual rack, i may just re-do all the brake lines. i have'nt taken anything apart yet but i believe these cars use that goofy bubble flare on the ends of they're lines?
they do use a bubble flare, but thats no problem, you'll just need to buy a bubble flare tool.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 01:33 PM   #6
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Casper i should have just called you! L.O.L
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Old January 8th, 2012, 01:37 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by osa6637 View Post
Casper i should have just called you! L.O.L
you know I'm here for you anytime bro, lol.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 03:08 PM   #8
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The reason you need to redo them is because you want the rear port going to the front brakes and the front port going to the rear brakes.

My racecraft MC has more volume going to the rear port so you want it to have the most volume going to the front brakes (for a street car).

For a drag only car you would need the rear port feeding the rear brakes because thats were you have the most tire. Trying to stop at 150 with most of your braking force going to your skinnies isnt going to work out so well lol
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Old January 10th, 2012, 12:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by sharkbait View Post
The reason you need to redo them is because you want the rear port going to the front brakes and the front port going to the rear brakes.

My racecraft MC has more volume going to the rear port so you want it to have the most volume going to the front brakes (for a street car).

For a drag only car you would need the rear port feeding the rear brakes because thats were you have the most tire. Trying to stop at 150 with most of your braking force going to your skinnies isnt going to work out so well lol
not quite. if you have too much rear brakes on a drag car, the rear slicks will lock up and once they do, its all done for. Theres no stopping it. Seen it before and even started to witness it at 160 mph after crossing the trap, not fun.
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