[MacDizzle]

So ya everyone knows ive got this new MMR 4.75L 750SE thing. Question is how hard is it to do the cam swap from the PI cam to a bigger cam. When I bought it - it was made by some people to sound pretty easy to do at home. Ive read of other people changing them in their driveway and stuff. My buddy says he will help me do it in his shop when I can afford it (Hes an HD mechanic). Is it true we dont have to yank the engine out? To me it sounds like (Pullies, Timing Cover, Valve covers, Radiator, Cold Air pipe and a couple bolts?) Am I on the right track here?) Then of coarse do they need to be degreed?
Remember I ask these questions because I dont know and have never done this before. Is this as easy as it was made to sound?
My friend has. He fully rebuilt his 92 GT into a full on cobra street race machine running really high compression. But he installed the cam incorrect the first time putting grooves in it and messing it up the first time then he did it right the second time lol.

Also what would be the absolute best cam to go with. Non fi for a while but hope to in the future. So it may be a year or two until Supercharging not sure but it needs to run well.

[ytngt]

Shit man, you should have done cams while it was all apart.


Comp 270 would be my recommendation for NA or FI.

[number1gt]

Im running stage 2 comps 278 and love them

[NickPohlAandP]

Yes, they absolutely need to be degreed no matter which cams you go with

[ytngt]

Originally Posted by number1gt Im running stage 2 comps 278 and love them

Me too. Be warned that the 278 is a big cam and has very limited low end torque. By 2000 ish rpms power is plentiful on my setup. Granted I can make around 17 psi at 2000 rpms. These cams do not get "on cam" until 4500 rpms, so be warned.

[number1gt]

Yeah I've only ran them for about a month then put the car away for winter, I plan on doing some supporting mods but as of now I love the power from about 3k and up

[MacDizzle]

How Hard of a Job is it? I was told that the Notched pistons would allow for easier installation due to the extra room and that they would basicly only sit one way when you instal them. True? Has anyone actually done it and does anyone have a video of a fully installed motor being done?

[number1gt]

The cams will sit anyway you put them regardless, notched pistons givee you room to run bigger cams and you don't have to retard them so much

[MacDizzle]

Originally Posted by number1gt The cams will sit anyway you put them regardless, notched pistons givee you room to run bigger cams and you don't have to retard them so much

What would you recommend to do exactly?

[number1gt]

Degree them properly, if the pistons are notched it give you more room to run bigger cams and not have to retard the timing so much to avoid ptvc

[number1gt]

There's not much I can recommend you do, the cams you pick is your choice I just recommend you follow procedures and degree them to get the most out of your engine!

[limited]

a diesel mechanic and having problems with an "old school " pushrod motor would have me concerned alittle. there is more than "lining up the dots" on a mod motor.

If you plan on staying n/a for awhile, be careful in not going with a too big of cam because of the loss of low end torque, that may or may not bum you out

[number1gt]

Mac did you put your engine together yourself? I remember your ordered the short block so whoever installed your heads and cams shouldn't have any trouble

[MacDizzle]

It was a shop that did it. Ya i would have to pay who knows what. Point is I heard of people doing the cam swap with the motor in and apparently it was pretty easy. Im looking for people who have done this.

[Cobra123089]

YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

[86er]

Originally Posted by limited a diesel mechanic and having problems with an "old school " pushrod motor would have me concerned alittle. there is more than "lining up the dots" on a mod motor. If you plan on staying n/a for awhile, be careful in not going with a too big of cam because of the loss of low end torque, that may or may not bum you out

pretty much it is just lining up the dots. Once the cams are degree'd in, you move off/away from the dot, but its just as easy as an old push rod motor.

radiator doesnt need to come out. You drop the p/s and a/c off the block, take the balancer off, remove timing cover and valve covers and then start the work.

Make sure you put the cranks dot at the 9o'clock position, this puts all the pistons below deck and then mark your chains, remove the tensioners and guides, remove the chains, take the cams out, reverse process. those arent exact, but it gets you going in the right direction