[mdb12002]

Like the title states, I want to get some opinions on what mod to throw at the stang next. I am returning off deployment, and ive put away a good chunk of change, and I have about 2k set aside for the car. My current setup is:

Engine/Fuel:
Stock Bottom end
P1sc Intercooled
VMP MAF
Stage 2 Patriot heads
272/272 comp cam
42lb Injectors with msd COP's
Accufab TB with 1/2'' Spacer
Dual svt pumps with KB BAP
BBK LT's into BBK x-pipe

Trans/rear/suspension:
Stock trans
stage 3+ spec clutch
Built 8.8 Rear end
Lowered 2'' front and 1.5'' rear
Tokiko d-spec adjustable shocks
AM LCA's

Accessories:
Already got a decent set of rims/tires 245 up front/315 out back
Stock brakes/rotors
Short throw with line lock
The interior is all OEM still, minus 3 guage pillar, and shifter.


So, any suggestions?!

[brokenweasel]

Subframe connectors? Also I'd go braided brake hoses all 4 corners.

3 hookers for good weight distribution?

[mdb12002]

Originally Posted by brokenweasel 3 hookers for good weight distribution?

Touche'

[NickPohlAandP]

Originally Posted by brokenweasel ...3 hookers for good weight distribution?

Originally Posted by mdb12002 Touche'

Nooo, you need Douche' for the hookers!!!

And +10 on the SFC's

[mdb12002]

Definitely going to go with SFC's,AM had some decent SFC's, but that's only like 200$ max. Ive got 1800 left over :-D

Thanks for the input guys!

[termi_GT]

I agree with the SBF's and throw some nice adjustable uppers and lowers on it.

For the lowers if your car is straight line oriented I would recommend JR Mega Bites.

[brokenweasel]

I've never heard of the JR mega bites, do you have a link? google isn't helping me find them.

An aftermarket K-member would save you some weight up front, you could do coil overs and tubular A-arms at the same time.

[mdb12002]

Originally Posted by brokenweasel An aftermarket K-member would save you some weight up front, you could do coil overs and tubular A-arms at the same time.

What exactly would coil overs do for me? Ive heard of them, just really never did any research, thought my d-specs were good enough

And how hard would be doing K-member and A-arms?

[mdb12002]

and I thought the K-member brought my front wheels forward a couple of inches? Is this true? I dont really want to do that..

[brokenweasel]

Originally Posted by mdb12002 What exactly would coil overs do for me? Ive heard of them, just really never did any research, thought my d-specs were good enough And how hard would be doing K-member and A-arms?

From maximum motorsports website:
Q.What are the benefits of switching to a coil-over front suspension?

A. Better handling and better ride quality! When the spring is in the stock location on the control arm, the minimum spring rate for performance handling is 700 lbs/in. Better handling can be had with higher spring rates, but ride quality begins to suffer with rates over 850 lbs/in. A coil-over kit allows the use of wheel rates that are much higher than those obtained with an 850 lbs/in spring in the stock location. This will dramatically reduce body roll and brake dive. Other benefits include easily adjustable ride height, the ability to fine tune corner weights, ease of bumpsteer measurement, less weight, and a wide selection of available spring rates.

Here's a write-up from a member here who did a k-member swap:

******zincs k member install tons of pics!!*****

[Mineral Gray GT]

Forged short block?

[termi_GT]

Originally Posted by brokenweasel I've never heard of the JR mega bites, do you have a link? google isn't helping me find them. An aftermarket K-member would save you some weight up front, you could do coil overs and tubular A-arms at the same time.

here you go......

HPM MEGA BITE JR REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS , NASCAR Gifts and More at Guaranteed Low Prices White’s Pit Stop

[termi_GT]

Originally Posted by mdb12002 What exactly would coil overs do for me? Ive heard of them, just really never did any research, thought my d-specs were good enough And how hard would be doing K-member and A-arms?

Coil overs are better with weight transfer then having the standard location of the spring. Plus have total adjustability when combined with the correct strut/shock.

You can adjust ride hieght and how hard/soft everything is.

IMO I would not do the tubular K unless you are planning long tubes or a turbo setup. The gain just isn't that much. I am also not a fan of tubular a-arms on street car.

[mdb12002]

I already have BBK Longtubes on there, are they going to get in the way of anything?

[termi_GT]

You would just have more room with the tube k-member and the longtubes. If the longtubes are already one, I would skip the k-member and do all suspension.

No reason in having all that power if you can't get it to the ground and hooking.

[StangGT99]

Originally Posted by brokenweasel Subframe connectors? Also I'd go braided brake hoses all 4 corners. 3 hookers for good weight distribution?

Think the 3 hookers are going to cost way past $2K!!!

[mdb12002]

Just ordered steeda full length sub frame connectors, hopefully worth it! Bought them off american muscle and literally 15 minutes later they were shipped. haha

[bottled2v]

forged shortblock for sure. put the 1800 on as a downpayment for an mmr900 or so and then you wont have to worry about that time bomb of a bottom end. then next time you get some cash, throw that p1 away step up to a d1 and bingo make 500+